I have a 2001 dodge ram sport diesel that I am putting a western unimount wiring harness in and I have been trying to get the head lights to work for 3 weeks and they still do not work. I tried everything from the ground wires to changing all the connectors to all five relays and also changed every connector on the entire wiring harness and on the plow every connector went on with heat shrink tubing. I even bought 5 new western realys and a western solinoid. This harness came off of another 2001 dodge ram Laramie that had the two bulbs on each side so a total of 4 head light bulbs two are high beams and the other 2 are low beams which is the same as mine. We both do not have day time running lights. I can't figure it out I took 4 mouth of time completely redoing this western unimount 9' pro plow and I am beginning to think it was all a wast of my time. I lost ambition and need help with this problem desperately. It goes to the curb next. :realmad:
snowman123
Owned an F550 with a wideout and universal wiring for uni, ultra and ultra II for service & testing
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2,425 Posts
Does the controller light up when you are connected to the plow with ignition on? Does your plow have two or three plugs at the grill? Don't loose heart, give us the details and we will get you through it. But first you need to identify it so we are looking at the correct wiring diagrams.
Owned an F550 with a wideout and universal wiring for uni, ultra and ultra II for service & testing
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2,425 Posts
Something you need to know is that the lights and the controls are two completely different sections of the system. The relays are exclusively for the lights so if your controller is causing lights to activate or your lights cause hydraulic actions you probably have wires backwards somewhere. Have you considered upgrading to an isolation module system? The problems you are having is the reason why Western went away from the relays, they are a pain in the butt! I know you have put a lot of money and time into this but perhaps the isolation module would be the best thing. It would give you new cables with no relays and no problems like this in the future. You would have to replace the plow cables as well as the truck side cables but it would work and it is much simpler to install. I believe, from what you are describing that you are going to have to go back to square one and verify all the new ends you put on. If you were my customer and asked me to fix this after hearing what has been done I would suggest putting your money into new cables rather than making you pay to reverse engineer the old wires. It will cost some money but it will work.
Owned an F550 with a wideout and universal wiring for uni, ultra and ultra II for service & testing
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2,425 Posts
Now, understand that power is sent to the coil of ALL your relays from the park light so first check to see if there is 12 volts at pin 86 of each relay. This will be a brown or tan wire, if you have 12 volts with the lights on there then move on to the next step.
Each relay needs a ground from the coil to complete the circut and close the contacts. On three of the relays the ground is completed when the plow is plugged in. So you can need to plug in the plow and see if the black/org wire has a good ground. Note that this only applies to three relays, the other two relays have a black wire on one and a diode on the other. All the coil grounds are connected to pin 85. A trick I do sometimes it just jump a wire from the black/org wire on pin 85 to a known good ground. If this makes the relays click then you need to check the ground between that black/org wire at the relays to the ground on the plow motor. There will be an open somewhere.
The schematic you are using is not so clear as it doesn't show the guts of the relays. Check this link to the Western electrical schematics guide http://library.westernplows.com/ddcommon/dd_pdf/pdfs/22373.07_110108_for_web.pdf Look on page 65. This shows the truck side for what I believe you have. Look at page 55 for the plow side.
Make sure you have a good ground between pin 5 on the plow side, to the negative lug on your motor. There is a junction in the plow harness that may have failed. Your motor is turning so the main ground is good and the valves are working so the common ground on the coils is good. Behind that it may be open.
Each relay needs a ground from the coil to complete the circut and close the contacts. On three of the relays the ground is completed when the plow is plugged in. So you can need to plug in the plow and see if the black/org wire has a good ground. Note that this only applies to three relays, the other two relays have a black wire on one and a diode on the other. All the coil grounds are connected to pin 85. A trick I do sometimes it just jump a wire from the black/org wire on pin 85 to a known good ground. If this makes the relays click then you need to check the ground between that black/org wire at the relays to the ground on the plow motor. There will be an open somewhere.
The schematic you are using is not so clear as it doesn't show the guts of the relays. Check this link to the Western electrical schematics guide http://library.westernplows.com/ddcommon/dd_pdf/pdfs/22373.07_110108_for_web.pdf Look on page 65. This shows the truck side for what I believe you have. Look at page 55 for the plow side.
Make sure you have a good ground between pin 5 on the plow side, to the negative lug on your motor. There is a junction in the plow harness that may have failed. Your motor is turning so the main ground is good and the valves are working so the common ground on the coils is good. Behind that it may be open.
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