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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2001 dodge ram sport diesel that I am putting a western unimount wiring harness in and I have been trying to get the head lights to work for 3 weeks and they still do not work. I tried everything from the ground wires to changing all the connectors to all five relays and also changed every connector on the entire wiring harness and on the plow every connector went on with heat shrink tubing. I even bought 5 new western realys and a western solinoid. This harness came off of another 2001 dodge ram Laramie that had the two bulbs on each side so a total of 4 head light bulbs two are high beams and the other 2 are low beams which is the same as mine. We both do not have day time running lights. I can't figure it out I took 4 mouth of time completely redoing this western unimount 9' pro plow and I am beginning to think it was all a wast of my time. I lost ambition and need help with this problem desperately. It goes to the curb next. :realmad:
 

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Does the controller light up when you are connected to the plow with ignition on? Does your plow have two or three plugs at the grill? Don't loose heart, give us the details and we will get you through it. But first you need to identify it so we are looking at the correct wiring diagrams.
 

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If your truck lights still come on it sounds like it's not recognizing that the plow is hooked up. You can try manually firing the relay to see if it switches from the truck lights to the plow lights. I was a little stumped with my western when I first got it as well until I realized on mine the purple wires must be run to the marker or cornering lamps that way when you kick the lights on it fires the relay and shuts the headlights off while the plow lights come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
The controller light comes on when the ignition is on. My plow set up is two plugs at the grill. at one point I had the plow lights go on when the controller moved up left and right now I get nothing it seems that that was a one day deal. Another time I had it where the blinker would make the plow move. Another time I had the truck lights go off but the plow lights would not come on. Right now the truck lights stay on and the plow lights do nothing the only lights that work on the plow are the parking lights and blinkers and the only reason they work is because they are hard wired to the truck. Also is this the kind of system where the truck lights go off and the plow lights come on. When I bought my truck it came with aftermarket headlights in it but the plugs look the same as the factory plugs so I doubt that would be it because they work on my truck with no problems when the plow is not hooked up. Thanks for the help so far I have been on this site for a while now and everybody shares good knowledge so I am sure one of you will help me figure it out. The PDF is down below and the harness that I have is on page 5.
 

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Yes the truck lights should go off when the plow lights come on. Sounds like you've got a heck of a deal going on. This harness came off an identical truck? It sounds like there is a wiring short somewhere and it's getting feedback but maybe someone else has a better idea of what's going on. Come to think of it. Are you sure one of your ground wires isn't hooked to a hot somewhere, maybe on the solenoid? Sounds like when you were moving the plow up, right and left it was sending fire to the solenoid for your lights then. It wouldn't do it when going down because it's just releasing pressure not activating the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
It could have been the ground at the time but now the lights on the truck stay on and the plow lights do not come on. Only the parking lights and the blinkers come on on the plow because they are hard wired into the truck.
 

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I know it's not really the right thing to do but if you've already hardwired the parking lights. Before you give up all together I have seen a couple of people make wiring harnesses for their lights using trailer wire and trailer plugs. You could just run your lights through 1 or 2 toggle switches in the cab. Not really the correct thing to do but it could be used as a last resort. Sorry I can't be of more help
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I have every manual western made for this setup. I also have been using a 12v test light and 12v multimeter for 3 weeks now it really sucks. Thanks for your help so far D&FServices I know wiring it up to a switch would work but I spent so much money trying to figure it out. That will definitely be the last resort.
 

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On my older ford I had the same issue and I found that when I ran the purple wire to any hot it clicked the solenoid and shut the truck lights off and lit the plow lights. The purple on mine was designed to hook in with the cornering lights and without it being hooked up there was nothing to activate the solenoid when you pulled the light switch. So if you get the schematic and find which wire should be the hot on the harness to activate the solenoid that should be your ticket. I'd bet that's where your problem is arising.
 

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Ugh now I see that you posted the manual. What a mess of stuff. Happy I have a slightly older setup that is much easier to decipher. My bet is on the brown wire. It appears that's the wire that runs to your parking lights and also gets jumpered into every relay. This should be what activates the relay. If you've got power coming off your parking light into the brown wire when their turned on and the jumper wires are hooked up between the relays then I don't see how it can't work but with the lights working earlier when you moved the plow I'm all confused. Hopefully someone else will chime in with the smoking gun to figure this one out.
 

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Something you need to know is that the lights and the controls are two completely different sections of the system. The relays are exclusively for the lights so if your controller is causing lights to activate or your lights cause hydraulic actions you probably have wires backwards somewhere. Have you considered upgrading to an isolation module system? The problems you are having is the reason why Western went away from the relays, they are a pain in the butt! I know you have put a lot of money and time into this but perhaps the isolation module would be the best thing. It would give you new cables with no relays and no problems like this in the future. You would have to replace the plow cables as well as the truck side cables but it would work and it is much simpler to install. I believe, from what you are describing that you are going to have to go back to square one and verify all the new ends you put on. If you were my customer and asked me to fix this after hearing what has been done I would suggest putting your money into new cables rather than making you pay to reverse engineer the old wires. It will cost some money but it will work.
 

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snowman123;1313107 said:
Also so you guys know the plow moves up, down, left, and right fine if that helps any of you out.
that changes everything... now we are dealing only with the lights.... there is still hope for the relays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I just don't have the money to change the whole system over to the isolation module system right now. Believe me If I had the money I would have the isolation module system in my hand right now. I just don't have the money so I am stuck trying to fix this setup for now.
 
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