I have an 85 GMC pickup the windows on it go up and down realy slow. frist I took off the door panel and greased the tracks and once the sliders got into the grease the window stoped if i pull down on the window it works but i cant get it back up any ideas?
Do you have a volt meter? If not hook one up and see if the motor is at least "trying" to go up. Could be a bad switch is waht I'm getting at. I had that happen to my power windows, but some contact cleaner in the switch cleared it right up. They're still slow as hell.
i'm not sure if newer motors will fit in the door. i have an '85 too, and the windows are pretty slow. what type of grease did you use? the best type that i have found is white lithium grease. the best way is to keep the door panel off and spray some grease then move the windows up and down a few times and then spray it again. i would try that after you test your switch. good luck!!
You might also want to remove the 2 screws holding the rubber boot on, from the door jamb to the door. The wires inside tend to break over time from flexing so much. Common problem, and commonly overlooked.
Doug if the voltage comes up when you rev the motor your altenator could be showing signs of weakening. You should put a voltage meter on it like MTCK advised u to do. That truck is fully loaded so is probally using quite a bit of voltage. If you dont have one let me know and i will bring one with me to school for u. Get ready to put u-joints in tomorrow.
Something I've used to speed up the window operation is to liberally spray the window welts with silicone spray. Put the window down, soak the welt with it and run the window up and down and soak again. Keep it off the glass as much as possible becasue the stuff is hell to get off the glass. The stuff washes out so you have to reapply periodically.
My experence with electric windows, there great when they work but sink when they don't or take for ever going up. I have a Acheiva with electrics and the driver window was like mud, slow and sloppy. After messing around with volt meters and having the door apart dozen times, fooling with the motor out of the door. I finally replaced the motor with a new after market brand. Works great faster than the other side with no problems. I'll do the other side when I get some motivation or sell the car. A car electrical shop near by said even though it works doesn't mean its good.The bushes get worn, the motor guts get dirty and the whole mess starts to strugle to work. Thus the high voltage consumption to the motor. Just my experence with electric windows.
Last month a fellow employee brought me his 86 GMC 1500 with two problems. He said that both windows stopped working at the same time and when they did work they both were real slow and he often had to help by pulling up on them. I found with my trusty Fluke meter that as Chuck mentioned in his post, the main power supply wire to the drivers door switch was broken inside the boot. I pulled a new power wire through and that solved the no power problem. I had plenty of voltage to run the motors so I regreased everything with lithium and that still did no work so I installed new motors in both doors and the windows now fly up and down like they were new. If you go the new motor route make sure you don't throw the old motors away, you will need to take the mounting plate off the old motors by loosing the tabs on the rivets and popping them out and then mount the plate on the new motor with the little bolts and nuts provided with the new motor. Make sure you mount the plate on the motor the same way it came off cause as I found out the hard way you can put it on in three different ways and if it is wrong the wires will not reach the plug in on the motor, and like I had to do pull it all back out of the door and turn the mounting plate around to the right position and reistall again.