What amp Fuse needed for a monarch in cab powerpak?

jjdonovan

Member
Location
western mass
I have picked up a 9' western and will be running a monarch powerpak that I will mount in the cab.
The info. tag on the unit is no longer legible.
Does anyone know what would be a safe fuse size to run to start off with. I will be mounting a maxi-pak fuse,(these are about the size of a half dollar but are the european shape)mounted in cab before the solenoid. Thanks all..spaceman:confused: :confused:
 

CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
When I had an underhood electric pump I powered it with 4 guage cable and used a 200 amp car stereo fuse on it. These are available through anyone that sells stereo supplies. I use a similiar setup to run the strobes on all my trucks just with lower amp fuses. Make sure everything is fused.
 
OP
J

jjdonovan

Member
Location
western mass
Correct size fuse for Monarch M-500 unit

I just wanted to flow this down to all interested partys. After hearing from here and other party's about the correct size fuse for the pump. And reallying hearing some outrageous size fuse numbers.I checked the manufacture and talked to Chris on the tech. side. He stated more than anything that a "GOOD GROUND" was a big factor when installing and that the fuse requirements are only 15 Amp. Which makes sense to me because all valves are mechanical and not electric actuated solenoids.Hope that this helps anyone that will be installing a unit like this in the future.Joe:D :D
 

CT18fireman

Banned
Location
Western CT
15 amps??? I find this very odd. Most plow pumps draw over 100-150 amps when operating. The solenoids are not a factor. This is the main power lead. On plows out in front of the truck there is no fuse just a heavy 4 guage cable. I think a 15 amp fuse will pop everytime you put the pump into full load.
 

Alan

PlowSite.com Addict
There's no magic in any of these plow pumps. It takes X amount of wattage to generate a given amount of hydraulic flow. The Fenner pumps on our Sno-Ways suck enough current that they will pull down battery voltage even when being fed by an alternator putting out well in excess of 100 amps. The FACTORY supplied circuit breaker on the main plow feed is 150 amps. I tend to think that economics of manufacturing being what they are, if they could run a 15 amp breaker they would. So, I would have to assume that the 150 amp limit is both enough to do the job and still be small enough that the wiring isn't going to fry before the breaker trips. I don't know the formulas to figure it out for horsepower, but 15 amps at 13 volts (fully charged battery) is only 193 watts, NOT enough to do any serious work. Your tech connection may be telling you the fuse size for the trigger lead on the power solenoid, but DEFINITLEY NOT the motor draw.
 

GeoffD

PlowSite.com Veteran
Most Plows use 8 or G wire to supply the electric motors.

Just as a little tip:

5 amps 18-22 G wire
10 amps 16 G wire
15 amps 14 G wire
20 amps 12 G wire
30 amps 10 G wire
45 amps 8 G wire
60 amps 6 G wire
75 amps 4 G wire
90 amps 2 G wire
105 amps 0 G wire
120 amps 00 G wire also knows as double ought.


So 8 G wire would require a 45 amp fues, yes you can get them. You can get the holder and the fues right from Napa.

However these amp rating are what the wire is designed to take for a load. However if you are pushing your motor hard. Ie lifting the blade with snow on it. Moving the blade with snow infront. You are working the motor harder, so you may actually be drawing more than 45 amps. Put a 45 amp fues in line, and see how many times you need to replace it.

A 15 amp fues is the right fues to put in line between the siliode and the siliode's power source. However 15 amps is not enough for the motor.

Geoff
 
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J

jjdonovan

Member
Location
western mass
You guys were right!!

Thanks everyone.
I called Monarch backup, sure enough he thought I had meant the fuse for the solenoid. Total Amp draw for the motor will be between 120-130 Amps.
I hope that he was right this time I went to my local NAPA and picked up 125 amp maxi-fuses. I will see if that will be enough.I am hopeing that with the motor and hydraulics being inside the cab kept warm. It should be easier on the electric motor as far as amp draw. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks again from a newbie:) :)
 

GeoffD

PlowSite.com Veteran
Make sure you have a few extra fues. You blow one your stuck right there, your plow won't work. There are other ways to jump the fues block, however they aren't really safe so i won't talk about them on here.

Geoff
 

Alan

PlowSite.com Addict
I think you would be way ahead with a 150 amp breaker. All it takes is one spike to blow the fuse and then you're down while you replace it. The breaker should be available from any plow supplier, it's a pretty standard item. With 125 amp fuse you're right at the point where maximum designed amp draw overlaps the fuse capacity. As for the pump being inside, after a few minutes of cycling ti would be warmed up even it is was outside, so that's not a consideration, IMO.
 
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