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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 95 f350 4x4 with 3 springs in the front end.
the mount for the unimount is 13 inches to the center
of the pin holes. it seems kinda high to me and the plow
looks like it leans forward alittle. it did not seem to trip
to much this year -the one time iv'e used it. i have seen other trucks and they seem to have
the mount alot lower. anyone have the specs on this?
anyone want to trade a 9 ft straight blade for a brand spankin new 8ft pro - who ever said i would be sorry i got a small blade was right.
 

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I don't know what the specs are for mount height on an F-350, but I do know that ideally, what you want is to have the A-frame level with the ground when pushing snow. If the mount height on your truck causes the rear of the A-frame to be high, it is possible to have new plates fabbed up & attached to the A-frame to get it levelled out. This would be easier than changing your mount, only thing to remember is that these plates are holding EVERYTHING on so the fabbing & welding needs to be done "right".

The plow and trip mechanism were designed to work properly with the A-frame level when plowing, having it out of level puts more stress on everything.
 

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All my A frames are angled slightly toward the blade-if the were straight the frame would be dragging when you transport,the only trucks Ive seen that are level are big town trucks.If mine were levle the bottom of the mount would be only 4" off the ground plowing and about 2" when raised-Ill keep mine the way it is for safelty and clearance.
 

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Good point John - I should have mentioned that it does depend on just how much the A-frame is out of level. A little is OK, a lot can cause problems. Thanks for bringing that up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
do you guys think that the a frame should line up with
the holes when it is resting on the stand. in other words
when you drive the truck up to it , it should line up with the holes on the mount. right now i have to pick the frame up several inches to get the pins in the holes. i have to put a 2x4 under the stand when i take it off the truck and it still drops when i pull the pins out.
the mount on the trk can be lowered, it looks like about 8 bolts and then move it down a couple holes and put the bolts back in. i just want to know the right height of the pin holes to the ground. i did not get a set of instructions on mounting the mount to the truck when i bought it. my dealer says it is ok but..... it don't look right to me
 

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Coupling Height

For what it's worth -

Western recommends 9.5" to 10" from ground to center of holes on the "Ears" of the a-frame.

If your lower than that - more force is needed to "Trip" the moldboard. Any higher than the 10.5" and the blade tends to skip over the snow or obsticales - the higher it is the worse job of cleaning it will do.

We try to set all a frames on a Western to 10.5" or 11".

THINK SNOW!

Bill
 

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not a factor

the height is not a factor,the blade will trip just the same.the force relies on PIN and SPRING strenghth.you seem to have an advantage though by having a DOWNWARD TILT.also,keep your chain CHOKED at a proper height for following the road terrain ,reverse your cutting edge annually,should be fine.

[Edited by torque20 on 03-17-2001 at 11:25 AM]
 

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Height does matter. The mounting height is directly related to plow performance. If the mount is to high, the blade will not make good contact at full angle. I have seen some mounts to high, and the plow would lift off the ground at ful angle.
I think the plow makers do know a litle about their line of work, if they have suggested plow mount height requirements, then I think you should follow that advice.
Also with the blade to high, it exibite more down froce on the cutting edge, causing it to trip easier. To low, and it will trip harder.
Bill Nero knows what he talking about, he owns a large plow parts warehouse, and installation shop.
Dino
 

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Sorry torque 20, the height and angle of the A-frame most definately DO matter. If you get a trip with the A-frame angled down it will tend to hold the blade tripped in addition to making tripping more likely. We had a user here who was having problems with his blade staying tripped after he added front springs, the change in A-frame angle was causing that. I don't much care how many brands you sell, the geometry has to be right for them to work right.
 

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Height and Angle does matter

Just wanted to jump in on the conversation. I'm not saying that anyone doesn't know how to put on snowplows here, just saying that height and "A" frame angle does matter to every snow plow made on the market. For instance Sno-Way states 9-11" on the GMC. It is also stated in our installation manual that if this is not correct, then the plow will not perform properly. Further more, shock points change and where damnage can occur also will change. Just as Mr. Nero stated Western specs. Everyone has specs for a reason, if these specs are found to be improper then someone will pay the price.
 

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The plow was in the float position. PLease listen to the others here, its is obvious that you have limited experience with plow installs. Now I am sure you will be ok with 1-2" higher than the specs suggest, however more than that and you will run into problems. End of debate.
Dino
 

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Torque, height matters,thats why they give the spec on the installation instructions. If it didnt matter some people would put the mount frame 2 inches of the ground because its the only they can get it to work. We adjust frames to the PROPER recommended height all the time due to improper installation from other installers. #1PT.
 

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After all the above, I too am reinstalling a Meyers conventional on a 2004 Ram 2500. On the existing truck (W250) the mount was only 4 inches to center of the pins from the ground and seemed to slope back towards the truck severely. Is there a Meyers suggested height or should I shoot for level or a little higher?
 
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