Rear plows dont seem to get the same amount of run time as front plows, and they are used at much lower speeds. So the type 1 edge should still be fine. Try one from mts, and if it wears to quick we will be gald to replace it, and you just pay the difference between the type 1 and type 2 that we will replace it with. Dino
Thanx for starting a new thread on this subject. My case may be a little different. I use my rear plow 75/25 over my front plow. It's wider and on private roads, I don't get the snow on my windshield. Do I call MTS direct and they give you the sale credit? And how thick of an edge do I order? Do I drill my own holes ro do they? Can I cut it myself to fit my outer-edge contours the way I need it?
If you call MTS they will refer you to your nearest distributor. That person can walk you through the order process. I am assuming if you are running down roads with the plow, that you wont have a lot of downpressure on the blade. You drill the holes, and yes it can be cut to your contour when it is installed. As I said when I became a moderator, I wont sell through this forum, just glad to pass the info along. MTS phone # 603-742-5180 ask for vinnie or jack hill They will direct you where to go, and also they will help with the thickness issue and if you need type 1 or 2 I still belive that a type 1 at 1.25-1.5" will work fine, but they can confirm that for you. Let me know how you make out. Dino
What about their toll-free # (877) 742-5180? What do you use to cut urathane with? Torch? (not) knife, band-saw?
that will work to, I just had their 603# right in front of me, so that is what I posted. I use a high quality combination material blade in a skill saw. Go slow and easy and it will cut right through. Cant burn it, or hack saw it. Band saw will be to hard to hold the edge as you go. Drill with twist bits or paddle bit. Dino
I finally bought and installed a urethane edge this morning. A few notes from my experience. It took me 45 minutes to install (this doesnt include running the plow down the street to have the garage torch off the old bolts holding the steel edge on). You can cut your time in half by: Ordering the correct length edge. I could have ordered the 8.5 I needed but instead took the 9 footer that was in stock. This material is tough. My 12-year old skilsaw (carbide blade) died while cutting this thing. maybe its time was up regardless, but it was no fun finishing the cut with a handsaw. Use a paddle bit, even if it means a trip to the hardware store. The twist bit wouldnt touch it, so I drilled a 3/8 pilot with the only paddle bit I had close to the final size, then drilled the hole to its correct size with a 1/2 inch twist bit. That drill was working, boy. Get a helper. I installed this myself. This edge is heavy, not much lighter than the steel edge, and putting both of them up there is an experience in strength and dexterity with one person. Throw out the instruction sheet that comes with it. After ten minutes of reading and re-reading, the 10-second install speech I got came thru the fog in my mind and everything made much more sense. Now all I need is some wet snow to see what this thing will really do...
I wonder how a forstner bit would work. I knew a twist drill would be murder. Spade bits don't like pressure treated lumber, so I figured they might dull fast on urethane too, and the heat will dull the cutting edges too. I actually think a chain saw would have cut the edge easier. I never tried it, but logically, it seems like it would work. It would get the "chips" out fast, and the cut doesn't have to be a "fine" cut. There would be less friction on the blade due to the wide "kerf". That's why a twist drill won't work well. The twist doesn't carry the chips out of the cutting area fast enough. With a material like urethane, the chips need to get out fast. Also, a twist drill will tend to "grab", and the friction plays a role too. That's why I think a forstner bit would work well. Oh, and I base some of this on my experience drilling through 1" thick solid rubber, and other thicknesses of rubber with a twist drill. You live and learn. ~Chuck
Bill I could have told you to just center the edge, and have a little extra over hang. If I had more than 1 extra minute on Fri, I would have cut it for you. Glad it is mounted, and by all means let me know how you like it. Dino
I dismantled the saw this morning-the brushes are gone so it wasnt the urethane's fault, just its time had come. I mounted the edge with the top edge even with the trip edge, this left 1 1/2-2 inch edge on the bottom (more on the ends due to the "smile" worn into the blade) and left enough material so I can flip it over and re-drill new holes when it wears out-though judging by the slickness of this material I doubt that will happen for a while. BTW if you have a scrap left around somewhere it makes a great rust remover-rub it on the rusty area like an eraser and it will remove rust as well as any steel brush could.
Bill you should market that, I just use the scraps as low budget bouncy thing for the kids, also makes a great teething chew toy for my infant. Dino
As Vince mentioned, when the edge is all used up, it is still useful. He mentioned motor mounts, bushings, etc. Now we have a rust remover, kids toy, teething toy for infants.... A dog chew toy.... hmmm lets see now.... ~Chuck
