1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Update from the past POST on plow not raising

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by DAZ982500, Dec 27, 2005.

  1. DAZ982500

    DAZ982500 Senior Member
    Messages: 142

    Thanks for your ideas.Turns out the plow angles and moves up and down at this time.The shop states that,as Mick points out , ice may have formed on shaft with extreme cold.My question is I have some minor rust that has formed on the shaft that raises/lowers plow.I am thinking that the pitting from this may form some ice on it what can I do about this.Or, maybe there is water leaking around this shaft and forming ice.Its warm now but if it becomes cold again I want this to work and want to resolve this.Shops suggestion is to buy new plow next season which I will do but I can't this year.I have'nt generated enough money this season to do this and I do not know if or how much more snow we will get.Dave
  2. seawood

    seawood Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    Dont remember who suggusted it but I put about 4oz of gas dry in mine Its a little slower when it cold but that has stoped the frezzing
  3. lawnmedic

    lawnmedic Senior Member
    Messages: 703

    Flush the entire system with naptha, then refill with Meyer approved fluid....
    Flushing procedures can be found in the Meyer manual, Can be down loaded from the Meyer web site. Link at top of the page...
  4. rembrandt100

    rembrandt100 Member
    Messages: 43

    At the very least you should drain the fluids in the system. First thing to do after that is determin if there was water in the fluid by comparing the color of the fluid to the original fluid. If you find that there is water in the sys you need to find out how it got there. There are only a few ways this can happen. Were the fill caps and the drain cap tight? You will know that when you remove them to drain the sys. Check the seal at the top of the pump. Only other way is thru the rams or the lifting piston. You did say that there was some rust on the lifting piston. If they are pitted at the rust points they could transfer snow or water droplets into the sys each time they are used. Think of it as adding a drop of water into the sys each time you raise and lower the blade. Just a thought

    Last edited: Dec 28, 2005
  5. muncybob

    muncybob Junior Member
    from Pa
    Messages: 12

    I was told by a repair shop that you can also get water in the system by condensation happening in the heat of the summer????
  6. rembrandt100

    rembrandt100 Member
    Messages: 43

    Bob, your right that is one of the easiest ways to get water in the sys.

    But if you do proper maintainance on thier equipment so, that it is dependable, the sys should have been drained and refilled at least a week before the season started. If you do it yourself total cost is less than $5. The plow shops in my area charge an average of $75. to change the fluids and a once over of the working parts.

    I guess that it all comes down to deciding if you are willing to gamble less than $100. against you having a frozen plow at 3 AM with 2 inches on the ground and 2 more on the way.


    BTW why are you buying a new plow if that is not what you want to do. The unit you have should have the rusted piston replaced and as far as I know Meyer parts are readily available. The pump on my truck now I got when I bought a used 86 f 250 in 89. It was then mounted on a 96 f 150 I bought in 99. It now is on a 99 GMC sierra and still working.

  7. bnewell

    bnewell Banned
    from Ohio
    Messages: 91

    I agree with Dave, no need to buy a new plow just because of a pitted piston rod. Depending on your pump model, these parts are readily available and kept in stock by most dealers.

    When flushing the system and changing the oil, don't forget the oil in the reversing cylinders (this is often over looked).

    Not sure what the shops around you charge, but it typically takes us about a 1/2 hour @ $55.00 per hour to change the oil in a system including the reversing cylinders + about 2 quarts of oil.

    Another good idea is to have the pump torn down and cleaned by your local shop. It is amazing what kind of mud, sludge, etc. you will find inside these pumps after several seasons of use. This typically will take about 1-1/2 hours labor + the price of the seal kit and oil.

  8. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    If the rod's pitted that bad see if you can get a new one. Every time the plow is moved a little bit of water is injected into the system in the pits of the rod. Think about how many times an hour while plowing this could happen.
    If stuff can leak out, stuff can get in.I run the Meyer antifreeze fluid and have never had a problem. It does not get real frigid here so maybe I have lucked out so far.