Hello all!! It's that time of year again....I was trying to get my plow up and running and I am having some issues with the pump. The plow functions left to right and up and down. I checked the fluid and topped it off. However the plow seems to bang kind of hard when I manuever it every now and again and after I left off of the control there is a whining noise coming from the pump like its trying to do something but nothing happens. The whine will go for some time. I looked at it and it smells like something might be burning and it is heating up. Could there be a blockage somewhere or something I might just simply be missing? It will continue to whine until I unplug it from fear of it burning up. The power connections at the pump are heating up too...not sure what the deal is.....any ideas??? Thanks
This sounds like a sticking motor relay. Probably just the relay but might be the controller. Easy to test. Just put a test light on the motor terminals and see if you can reproduce the whinning sound that continues after releasing the control as you described. If the light stays on then the power relay is sticking closed. When that happens just try giving the relay a bit of a tap with a tiny hammer or a wrench or something. If it is just sticky that should make it release. If not you need to put a test light across the two tiny terminals on the motor relay and do the same test. If the light stays on after releasing the button then I would try a new controller because this indicates that the relay is being TOLD to stay on by the controller. This just suggests a sticky button in the controller which might be fixable by taking it apart and cleaning the contacts and under the pads. Possibly sticky from a spilled drink???
Quicker and more safe test while diagnosing a pump run on condition on the go with no need to fool around with any tools or under the hood. Next time it's "whirring" after releasing the function- simply reach down and unplug the controller. If it immediately stops then your issue is in the controller. If it doesn't stop then the motor relay is faulty.
Repair it soon as it isn't a condition to take lightly. Trucks can and do burn to the ground due this issue.
I use little lights that have six feet of wire and two aligator clips on the end. I clip them on to the places I want to test and then secure them, where I can see them, with nylong ties. Once things are secured in such a way I can see them I just go for a test drive and watch. In a shop environment I just lay them on the hood where I can see them. Needless to say, you have to use common sense and not stand between the truck and plow while someone operates the plow. That being said, B&B's test is just as effective for the second test, and you don't need any tools.
Thanks for the help guys...I just went out and tried to controller method. It didn't. Work so there is something wrong the relay I guess. How might I fix that? Is it the fuse or is it something inside the pump. I'm pretty new to this stuff..I don't want mess anything else up in the process of trying to fix this issue. I also do NOT want my vehicle to burn up either haha.
I tried cleaning the connections at the relays and banging on them a bit. No luck...the problem has gotten slightly better though as its not as common however it does still continue. Not sure what else to do
If the motor continued spinning after removing the controller then you need a new relay. They are not expensive. Just make sure you get the wires on the new one the same as the old one.
I was thinking that after i messed around with it a bit.
The side of the relay said
White Rogers. 120-105111-1
Coil 12V DC CONT....I'm going to look for one of those or something of the equivalent...thanks again guys ill let you know how I make out!
You need to know that there are several kinds of relays that people will try to sell you that are NOT correct. They look like starter relays and some starter relays will work but others won't. This relay (some people call solenoids) must have no internal ground. The electromagnetic coil has the two ends of the wires connected internally to the two small termainals. Some relays will have only one small terminal and the other end of the coil is internally grounded. Yet another type, that was used on old point ignition systems, had the same internal ground but still had two small terminals. In that case the second terminal sent power to bypass the ignition resistor while cranking. You can use pretty much any plow motor relay. Western, Fisher, Boss, Snow way are all the same. Just be carefull if you go to an auto parts place as they might try to sell you the wrong type if they don't understand the system.
I ordered 2 of them... Should be here in a few days. So ill go from there and see what happens. Hopefully that solves my issues. Ill let you know later this week how I make out. I do appreciate the advice.. I am newer to this stuff but this site is a great resource to have! Thanks again.
That is the correct one. Interesting that so many people call them "solenoids" when technically they are just relays. There is no external mechanical movement.
Alright! We're back in business. I replaced the old one with the new one today... It came pretty quick through UPS. I had it expedited a bit because the plow was stuck up and I didn't want it sitting like that for 5 days! I replace the old with the new and she works great! Thanks again for the help!
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