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unimount only going left

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by cjlafave, Feb 8, 2008.

  1. cjlafave

    cjlafave Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    I have a unimount that will only go left. i changed the 2 and 3 way valves, and all the coils are working fine. it worked fine when i parked it last year and now it wont do anything but left. getting frustrated. can someone please help???
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Did you check the coils for magnetism to see if they had it when they should? This will help diagnose it first as an electrical problem (loose connection, grill connectors) or a hydraulic problem.
  3. cjlafave

    cjlafave Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    I checked all three coils and they all have magnetism. not sure if they are when they are supposed to be because i dont have a book for this plow. This really sucks because we have to plow even a haf an inch because of the salt shortage and i need this truck
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Here's the manual for your plow:Unimount guide. Double check your valves and coils using the manual as a guide.

    Make sure your angle hoses are correct also.
  5. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    This is a copy of mine from another post hopefully it'll help you out, not all of it will apply to you since you know the motor runs. I had the same problem as you earlier this year and it turned out to be a bad circuit board in the controller.

    First thing run some jumper cables to the motor on the plow, if the motor runs that's good news, if not you'll need a new one then continue from there.

    Make sure you're getting 12V from the + wire at the pump when the solenoid is engaged, check the ground from the pump to the truck as well.

    If all of that is good, then you can move inside. On the white control plug on the truck side with the two v shaped cut outs on top the terminals will look like this


    There should be 12v between 1 and 3 with the truck key in the on position, if not find the red wire and where it taps there may be a blown fuse or bad connection.

    Jump 1 to 4, motor should run, if not check the brown/red wire to the solenoid and repair.

    Jump 1 to 6 the S1 solenoid (top right behind the red plastic cover on the pump) should be magnetized and the white wire should have 12v.

    Jump 1 to 2 the S2 solenoid (top left behind the red plastic cover on the pump) should be magnetized and the green wire should have 12v.

    Jump 1 to 5 the S3 solenoid (bottom behind the red plastic cover on the pump) should be magnetized and the blue wire should have 12v.

    If all those are good, move on if no solenoids are magnetized even though there's 12v replace them.

    Now jump 1-4-5 the plow should raise

    Jump 1-4-2-5 the plow should angle left.

    Jump 1-4-2 the plow should angle right.

    If all of these work plug the controller in, it should power on and work fine if not your controller is probably bad.

    To test the controller, ground yourself. Then remove the two screws on the side of the controller and unplug the cord from the circuit board.

    The rectangle white plug that goes to the truck will look like this facing you with the two v's on top

    Check Pin 1 for continuity with the white and black wires on the other plug.

    Check Pin 2 for continuity with the red wire on the other plug.

    Check Pin 3 for continuity with the green wire on the other plug.

    Check Pin 4 for continuity with the orange wire on the other plug.

    Check Pin 5 for continuity with the blue wire on the other plug.

    Check Pin 6 for continuity with the yellow wire on the other plug.

    If there is no continuity between any of these the cord is bad. Replace it, if they are all good put the controller back together.

    Using the battery connect the controller side pin 1 with a 6 amp fuse to 12v, pin 3 to a ground. The controller power light should come on when you hit the power button, if not the circuit board is bad.

    This is easier to do with a helper, with the controller power on check the output to the pins 4 should have 12v with all movements besides lower.

    Raise pin 5 should have 12v.

    Right angle pin 2 should have 12v.

    Left angel pin 2 and 5 should have 12v.

    If you don't have 12v to the pins, the circuit board is bad and can be replaced for around $160, which is still cheaper than the $300 they're asking for the whole controller.