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Unhappy with Aftermarket wings

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by superdog1, Dec 14, 2014.

  1. superdog1

    superdog1 Senior Member
    Messages: 257

    As most of you know, for about $220 to $250 you can buy wings made by SAM. I picked up a pair and tried to fit them on all 5 of our trucks. I was not happy with the way they looked, their fit or the angle they would have been at if I were to mount them. The first blade I tried was a 8.5 foot Diamond municipal unit on an F350 dually dump. This blade has a very strange attack angle on it and the SAM wings fit the worst on this one.

    The next one a tried was an 8ft Fisher HD on a MM2 frame. While it seemed to be a little bit better fit, it still only had a very small forward angle on the wings if I would have installed them with a lot of gap around the wings and blade where the two radius' met up. The 3rd blade was a 9ft Western Pro plow. It seemed as though it would work fairly well on this one as far as how the wing radius fit against the blade, but here again, the forward angle was next to nothing and I am not sure how much snow it would have kept in front of the blade?

    The next blade we tried was an older 9ft Hiniker. This seemed to be a perfect match, so we are going to install them on this unit next week. I had a buddy stop by with a 7.5ft Meyer blade (Sorry, do not know which blade model it was?) and this also appeared to be a perfect fit. I am guessing that when you try and make a "One size fits all" accessory for snow plows, you can't make everyone happy?

    With this in mind, I started to search around to see what my other options would be. It seems as though Meyer, Western and a few other OEM's have figured out that SAM is making a good $$ selling these wings and have now come out with their own line of add on wings. I was kind of excited at first and then I saw the price tag!!!! :redbounce :cry:

    Since we own and operate a machine/metal fab shop, I decided to try and make one on my own. I did steal some ideas from a video I saw on Youtube as far as mounting is concerned, but after that part, I decided to blaze my own trail, Lol. I explained to my dad what I wanted to do and then took off to run some errands. I should have known better? He had been a machinist at ALCOA for 30 some years and is one of those "Well, if 8 gauge steel is what everyone uses, I am going to use 1/4" plate steel so I know it won't break" kind of guys. :mechanic:

    When I got back, he had 2 pieces of 1/4" plate steel bent with a radius on one side that matched the attack angle of the Western Pro plow. If you decide to copy this design, I would tell you NOT to use plate steel this heavy. It doesn't need to be this thick and the weight is out of control! You will also not have to use the same gauge box steel he used either. The end result in this case is that the wings are made better and heavier then the blade itself. My dad claims that if the plow were to trip and roll front, there would be nothing left of the SAM wings? This is another reason he made the wings the same height as the plow. If I would happen to hit something and trip it, the blade will just roll forward and up on top of the wings and then reset without any serious damage happening to the plow OR the wings.

    I have used these one time so far and I have not tripped the blade at all, so I honestly can't tell you what happens when you do. I have no clue if my dad will be right or wrong?

    my phone 385.jpg

    my phone 386.jpg

    my phone 389.jpg

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    my phone 391.jpg
  2. superdog1

    superdog1 Senior Member
    Messages: 257

    The first pic I put up was of the SAM wing for comparison. The rest are just pictures of each step more or less of how we did it. Here are some more:

    my phone 390.jpg

    my phone 391.jpg

    my phone 392.jpg

    my phone 393.jpg

    my phone 395.jpg
  3. superdog1

    superdog1 Senior Member
    Messages: 257

    Oh yea, before anyone asks me, this is a Western Pro plow on an all Western mount, BUT, it has all Meyer electrics and hydraulics. I bought the unit this way, truck and all from a township in PA. I never asked why they had it set up this way. The pump is an E60 set in the frame backwards. If it were mounted correctly, it wouldn't fit right. I am glad it has the E60 on it, as it is a heavy blade and it is even heavier with these wings mounted on it. My guess is that each wing weighs about 40 pounds. I'm not sure the older Western pumps could even lift this setup?

    The extra weight makes it hard to stack with the wings on. It will do it, but you have to take your time. It is nothing like having an 8ft or 7.5ft blade on an E60. In that case, those smaller blades would come right up no matter how much snow was in front of or stuck to the blade. As I make more of these, I will refine my design and get them a lot lighter and maybe a little shorter in height.

    I can tell you that I will never and I mean never! plow without wings again. The amount of time you save is unreal. Thumbs Up
  4. Fannin76

    Fannin76 Senior Member
    Messages: 731

    you taking orders?
  5. superdog1

    superdog1 Senior Member
    Messages: 257

    Maybe? I have no idea what I need $$ wise to cover everything. Keep in mind that these would be a weld on unit. I don't think there is any way to make these a bolt on setup?
  6. Fannin76

    Fannin76 Senior Member
    Messages: 731

    i can weld the receiver to the blade. i wouldnt want 1/4 in though lol.
  7. Flyboy77

    Flyboy77 Senior Member
    Messages: 139

    Thanks for all the testing on the different blades of the cheap-o wings. I've even seen these for less than $200(factory shipped, long lead time), on sale now for $199.99 at
    Also did you see the Meyer wings on this page that partially cover their name up, you'd think they'd add the ER to the wing so you don't have a "Mey" plow.

    Outstanding! There's no kill like over-kill! " :) Very nice design.
    I like the tube mount design for pin to release and strength, welding required. I've seen some on eBay(built to order) that bolt to outside rib, so only drilling required to mount, but no quick release and I would think less strength.
    How wide is that cutting edge to edge?

    Couple ideas for future versions:
    - have a place for blade guide sticks to know where the REALLY wide edge is.
    - don't have the upper edges out past the cutting edge if you're concerned about fitting through narrow places. But this might catch/redirect more snow inside if you're not concerned with width on long pushes.
  8. superdog1

    superdog1 Senior Member
    Messages: 257

    No problem. I tried them on as many different blades that I could. I am sure they work to some extent, as others have mounted them with fairly decent reviews?

    Agreed. It does look kind of dumb when attached. I almost fell over when I saw what Meyer wanted for their wings. If I read the description correctly, the Meyer units only work on one type of their blades???

    The ones that only bolt to the outside rib can not be good for the blade? If you apply all of the pressure to one point, it will twist that rib and make it bend backwards against the plow. This will also change the angle of the wing as it bends back and make it as flat as the moldboard. My dad said that the plow was designed to be as strong as possible with the least amount of steel used. He feels that any drilling is removing steel and weakening the blade, especially if the support structure is involved.

    If my memory serves me correctly, the rubber cutting edge is like 14.5" long X 10" high. It could be lengthened to go all the way out to the end. I didn't do that because the rubber wouldn't be strong enough in my mind to stay in a forward position. The way they are right now, the rubber does flex backwards at the very end as you plow but still stays stiff enough to clean the snow off of the asphalt.

    I agree with the guide sticks. I was in a rush to complete these, as I knew the next morning we were going to get 3" of snow and I wanted to use them. I will have them on very soon, Lol.

    The fitting of the plow in narrow spaces wasn't a concern for me. I have no banks, fast food or any location that has a drive thru on it. The blade was already 9' and with the wings on it is just a little under 11'. Besides, if you have to clean up a tight area, I would just get out and take the wings off. The wings should be changed a little bit, as no matter how much snow I had loaded up on the blade, it never got close to the top of the wings. Making them a little bit lower in height would make them lighter, as weight is truly an issue with these! I am pretty sure these wings could take a direct hit from an M1 Abrams tank using a 120mm sabot round and keep right on working, Lmao
  9. Flyboy77

    Flyboy77 Senior Member
    Messages: 139

    :laughing: :laughing:
    Pull the shoes off might save you 10lbs, unless you do much gravel.
    The Meyer shows a straight edge up the side with the stick at the corner if you end up trimming the rounded edge off them.
    Mossman381 (https://www.youtube.com/user/mossman381) built his own wings on a Western and has some videos. He might have posted some pics of them on here somewhere.
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2014
  10. Flyboy77

    Flyboy77 Senior Member
    Messages: 139

    I know I saw a close-up of MossMan381's home built wings, but I can't find it. Here's one of the backside from his posts.
    http://s475.photobucket.com/user/mo...rado 3500/DSCN0385_zpsebaf0fd4.jpg.html?o=250

    Here's the close-ups. I'm amazed by what you guys can do with hunks of steel. I don't have such fabrication skills.
    http://s475.photobucket.com/user/mossman381/media/2002 Silverado 3500/DSC03411.jpg.html?o=3960
    http://s475.photobucket.com/user/mossman381/media/2002 Silverado 3500/DSC01950.jpg.html?o=4930
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2014
  11. mossman381

    mossman381 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,410

    Wings look good. I too over built my wings but I guess the plow will break before the wings :D When the blade trips nothing will happen. I have tripped mine many times with no problems.