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Ultimate SuperPlow


Senior Member
Ft. Wayne IN
The technical information on this site is unsurpassed.I love to read about all the different opinions on equipment.Say I was an engineer with a free hand and an empty drawing board tasked with designing an entirely new snowplow any way I wanted,I want this thing to be the be-all to end-all of snow removal concepts.We are the design team.How would we go about it?(just for grins!)

SlimJim Z71

PlowSite.com Addict
Cary, IL
1. Heavy duty hydraulic lines

2. V-plow (obviously)

3. Boss SmartHitch type mount

4. High speed pump

5. Down pressure

6. Western-style joystick

7. Trip edge (with urethane edges)

... I'd be happy with that.



PlowSite.com Veteran
Only one thing I would like to see.

Fisher builds an 8.5' V-plow, the build a 9.5' v-plow very heavy duty, designed off the 9' MC series.

Can Fisher just make a regular old 9' v-plow and add 3" little inches to each side of the 8.5' V-plow? Is it really just too much to ask.

Now I think this is up most importance. Only because my Fords have a wide turning radius, and all my F 350 C&C have 9' straight blades. The 8.5' V-plow wouldn't work well when plowing in areas that have a lot of curves. I know any 1 ton would handle a 9' V-plow as long as it was built off the 8.5' platform. So why can't they build me a 9' V-plow?


Kent Lawns

PlowSite.com Veteran
I think we're just on the cusp of some radical new advances in snowplows.

Look for some "far-out" fold out designs.
Look for extensive use of polymers were practical.
Look for "tricked-out" hydraulic systems.

I know already of some equipment guys are using that'll become commonplace in 5 years that will radically improve productivity.

Once we get the SuperPlows, we'll need stickier rubber to bite and actually move all the snow these plow systems will be able to.


Senior Member
Ft. Wayne IN
Who's the company that has the flexible moldboard on their plow? You can literally change the shape of the plow!(increasing the curl of the snow)Would this work like a Vee-plow too? You know,have Vee, Scoop,angle etc...?


Build one like the Blizzard plows.

- Extend from 8 to 10 or 12 feet as a straight blade.

- Curl the ends in as to act like a 10 foot pusher as needed.

- Marker lights on the plow ends

- A plow design that would allow for some real heavy down pressure to really scrap or back drag when needed.


i am a non-plower, just a true plow enthusiast.

1) curtis mount

2) better wiring-one plug for all

3) blizzard power extending blade

4) meyer touchpad control

Chuck Smith

2000 Club Member
First of all, a stainless steel moldboard. Not the framework, just the actual "sheet metal". No need to paint it. (I have plans for my plow this summer, got the stainless already)

As Deere John said, bushings and grease fittings where they should be. Especially the center pivot "king bolt". That should use a tapered bearing, like a wheel bearing. It should be a "mini spindle" not a bolt.

No bolts going through metal without a bushing.

A self contained underhood hydraulic system, like Barnes makes (for example). It could serve a dual purpose, work the dump body, and the plow.

A lift cylinder that is interchangeable with the angle cylinders. Then only one spare would be needed, "just in case".

Urethane cutting edge, or a urethane edge, sandwiched between two steel edges. The urethane to support the weight of the blade, and steel to scrape better. Urethane makes for much quieter plowing.

Downpressure system.

Hydraulically controlled plow wings.

A hinged sno foil that can fold back when you don't need it.

A galvanized A frame, as Alan mentioned. Along with the rest of the steel plow framework being galvanized too.

The problem with all of these improvements, is that we'd never buy parts! It has been said that Meyer is in the parts business, but they aren't the only ones. True, other brands may need parts less often, but all plows need parts sooner or later. Anytime you have a bolt holding steel together without bushings, and the bolt is harder than the steel, the steel will wear, causing the holes to oblong.

I have more, but these come to mind right now.....



PlowSite.com Addict
It's not just the Ford line that is tight under the hood. I don't know where we would find space to mount an underhood system on our K2500 either. Maybe up under the box, where a hoist would go, but then it's out in the weather.


Junior Member
Real plow systems

I am not sure why more of you don't run clutch pumps, or even honda box's for you plow systems. I know a plow company that has two ford f-450's with honda 8 hp's running the hydralics for the plows, A 9'2" boss v-blade and a custom backblade that has ears that expand out on both side to double it width from 8 to 16'. Thats not uncommon up here in michigan.


Junior Member

Stainless moldboard?

Been working on this one myself.

My question would be how you are planning on attaching the stainless to a mild steel frame (i.e. the bent angle iron that forms the backbone of the moldboard)?
It seems to me that stainless can not be welded to mild steet so the skin must be bolted to the frame. At best the bolts could be stainless and welded in but the skin will still show signs of this ....

The other question is what gauge steel? In mild steel they use 10 guage but stainless is heavier and stronger so ???

What are your plans?



Senior Member
I like the stainless idea. If I were to try this, I would bend it over the top of the plow and bolt it to the angle iron that is at the top. The bottom I would slip in between the cutting edge and where the cutting edge bolts to the plow, drill holes where the existing holes are and bolt the cutting edge back in place. It may be harder than it sounds but this is just an imaginary post anyway.

I think the stainless would be an excellent surface. Throw some downhill ski wax on it or maybe rain-x wax... that would be real slick.

Chuck Smith

2000 Club Member
Well ICky, 5 years ago I welded stainless floors in my 80 GMC, right to the steel. The welds haven't cracked yet. I used stainless wire in my MIG. I was told by a guy who welds that it can be done, but it's not the best idea.

I had planned on using stainless carraige bolts to hold the skin to the frame. As was said also, the cutting edge would hold the bottom portion on better. You can weld stainless, and the welds could be polished if you didn't want the "blue" showing. You can MIG stainless to stainless, and ARC it too (if you wanted to weld the bolts that is).

As far as gauge, the piece I have is about 16 gauge (maybe 18). It was the back of a cafeteria serving line. A nice 3' x 8' section. The biggest problem I see is getting it to bend. Bending stainless is murder! I have access to a shop with a set of rollers for curving sheet steel, but it's only 4' wide, so it's no help on an 8' piece.

Actually, most plows are between 11 and 14 gauge, depending on the brand, and the model.

I was also considering tack welding the stainless to the angle frame in places. I have a feeling they will be more likely to "pop" than my floorboards. I do plan to get at least grade 5 carraige bolts. They do come in higher grades, but the grading standards are different. I'll have to check at work. They know where to get some high quality fasteners, even if a hammer does cost them $100!