Tricks or tools needed for Timbren install (2013 2500HD 4x4)

jjdalynh

Junior Member
Location
NH
these are the 4 piece ones that just wedge into the holders on the frame vs being bolted.

i've had some hand and arm injuries lately so muscling them in with long screwdrivers or flat bar isn't working.

seems like a decent pry bar should work, but i can't find mine right now and want to get this done today. if the pry bar is the trick, i'll just go get a new one...... i've got a pretty good selection of tools otherwise.
 
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jjdalynh

Junior Member
Location
NH
yeah those are the rears. my google-fu is pretty strong and i have yet to find an installation video/hoe to. for the GMFK25D parts.

they just say twist them in and if needed use a 2x4 to press when the weight of the vehicle drops on. impossible on the fronts.

maybe i need to disconnect the shock and end links to let it droop more? i was running out of time to do this today so i had to put it all back together for now.

i'll try it again tomorrow (now it's raining) and i'll post results of how i did it.
 
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jjdalynh

Junior Member
Location
NH
I think I have always used a big pry bar.

did you you apply any type of slikum to the rubber?

ie: wd40, motor oil, anti freeze?

heh. yup soapy water and then straight up dish detergent. then graphite.

i don't generally use oil or wd40 on anything rubber, i have silicone spray for that but the cap broke off the other day(!).

i then noticed the the dish detergent that we have is that seventh generation hippy junk from VT. probably not the best. i probably have some dawn in the camper that will work better, i'll try it tomorrow.
 
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jjdalynh

Junior Member
Location
NH
90 mins later and one side is done. o-ring lube helped a bit. i'm getting a longer pry bar before tackling the other side tomorrow. hard to get the correct angle of attack to get them levered into place. with some tension on the wrecking bar and pushing the head in with a long screwdriver helped get it mostly seated. i'm hoping that when i hook up the plow and lift it will ensure they are 100%.
 

Scoop'n

Member
Location
Scooptown
I've done a few different styles of these in my front end.. some are bolt in & others have been squeeze + bolt..

On the ones i have to squeeze in, i use real real soapy water for the same concerns others have.. Then, I get my Jack & set it under that side of the axle. After that i take a short little 3x3 or 4x4 block, wedge it under the timbren in a way that everything is lined up & hands free (use jack here, to close any gap & make contact between Timbren, Frame, block & axle, so you don't have to hold anything). Then once all that's lined up & looking good, I'll continue jacking the axle up until the block sitting on the axle drives the Timbren/Sumo home. Droop was not an issue to get mine in, but if it is on yours, find a way to get more, Jack body higher, or find a way to push axle down.. Maybe a little bottle hack stuffed somewhere or a crappy oem sissor jack between pumpkin & truck body.. (just don't go crazy there & crush/over extend stuff).. or like u suggested.. unbolt shocks or sway if easy enough to put back together.

It works really really well & I don't end up having to fudge around at funny angles where i have no strength to push upwards. It's very similar to what the video above shows, just a little different. I gave up on the pry bar method, it was just too painful on my specific truck..

Trick is.. you either need a jack with decent capability or a good size block to stuff inbetween axle & bump. The bigger the block you can fit, the less lift you need out of your jack.
 
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jjdalynh

Junior Member
Location
NH
there's really not much room to work with on the IFS of the 2500hd. can't droop the front any more because the upper a arm is on the frame stop, so unbolting anything else wouldn't matter. removing the lower shock mount bolt helped a tiny amount. there's literally about an inch or so to get a bar in to pry. with them all the way in and on the wheels, the rearmost is on the lower arm and the front is just hovering above it. photos will follow.
 

Scoop'n

Member
Location
Scooptown
Oh.. IFS... right right..
Yeah photos would deff help for sure as IFS is definitely not my department.. i understand it but haven't touched one in YEARS..
You'd want to think there's gotta be an efficient way to get them in there.. otherwise no one would be using them.
Can you not find an IFS install/tip video anywhere on the tube?
 

Philbilly2

PlowSite Fanatic
Location
Sandwich IL
90 mins later and one side is done. o-ring lube helped a bit. i'm getting a longer pry bar before tackling the other side tomorrow. hard to get the correct angle of attack to get them levered into place. with some tension on the wrecking bar and pushing the head in with a long screwdriver helped get it mostly seated. i'm hoping that when i hook up the plow and lift it will ensure they are 100%.

I just looked at mine as I didn’t remember it being that bad. There are channel lock plier marks on the rubber. It all came back to me. I lubed them up, used a long pry bar to apply pressure, and spun them into the socket with channel locks.
 
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jjdalynh

Junior Member
Location
NH
i had thru-way spring install mine, was only a few dollars more than if i bought and installed, and i sat and drank their coffee
did you know ahead of time how much of a pita it was?
i'm a stubborn prick and will pretty much try to do anything on my own first.
 
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jjdalynh

Junior Member
Location
NH
I just looked at mine as I didn’t remember it being that bad. There are channel lock plier marks on the rubber. It all came back to me. I lubed them up, used a long pry bar to apply pressure, and spun them into the socket with channel locks.

channel locks got the oem stops out.... i'm going to try this method on the driver side today. thanks.
 

leolkfrm

PlowSite Veteran
Location
western ny
did you know ahead of time how much of a pita it was?
i'm a stubborn prick and will pretty much try to do anything on my own first.
nope strictly did it by price and convenience, plus i had them check the front end and had them put a couple of new ball joints in
 
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jjdalynh

Junior Member
Location
NH
separating the ball joints would probably make it easier.

driver side less than an hr. flat bar under to apply pressure across the whole piece. bottle jack under the lower a arm to get a more level pry surface so the prying doesn't slip once it's cammed over far enough. while applying pressure, screwdriver or prybar blade to push the remaining bits into the cup. ended up needing to lean on the prybar with my upper body so i could use both hands to push the remaining bits up into the cups.

rearmost one very nearly touches the lower arm, front is higher.
 

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