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Torsion Bar question

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by MxRob, Aug 2, 2004.

  1. MxRob

    MxRob Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    I want to adjust my torsion bars to get some extra height before I can swing buying some timberens.

    Do you have to jack up the front end or can you do it with the truck flat on its wheels and just wrench on the bolt?

    I know you can only gain 1-1/2" or so in height and go about 4-5 turns max on the bolt but I am not sure.

    My local suspension shop didn't want to mess with the project. They sent me to a 4X4 fab shop which told me $500. It looks like an easy project that I should be able to manage myself.

    This is my first post and look forward to spending some time here. :)

    03' 2003 1500HD 4X4

    8' Fisher
  2. Bchlawns

    Bchlawns Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 147

    If the shop told you $500 dollars i think that is expensive. I am getting a new 2005 2500HD cheve. Where i am buying my Western Plow at the guy told me he could crank up the torsion bars for nuttin included in the price. He said it is not a big deal at all to crank then a few times. I dont know, that is just what he told me. So i would check around first i get a better price or wait for someone to respond that know how to do it. Good luck
  3. sonjaab

    sonjaab PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    MX..........Easy to do.............

    1. Punch mark/mark the bolt head and the frame rail for reference.
    2. Jack up the front end some to take the weight off. Makes it easier to turn bolts.
    3. Turn bolt heads clockwise to raise...Counterclockwise to lower.

    Turn each bolt head equally ! Note one bolt head may be turned in/out more than the other before you start. Do not be alarmed.

    Thats where the reference marks come in handy ! I used to turn mine up 5-6 turns during winter and back down in summer.
    Never had a alignment or tire wear problem............geo
  4. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    OMG! :eek: 500$ :eek: You could go buy all the tools including a jack and be 350$ under that:eek: That is flat out RAPE! Its a 30 minute job max and that is with you hunting for the tools. One beer max!

    Yes jack up the front of your truck to take the weight off the front end! If you plan to adjust em down in the summer when the plow is off marking makes it easier, otherwise its not needed.

    Here is how I do it

    1. Measure the left and right side of the truck to an easy to measure and duplicate reference point. Bottome of bumper, top of fender opening, what ever, dont really matter.

    2. Jack up truck

    3. With weight off the trucks front turn the adjusting bolts in a few turns(I would also put some anti sieze on the threads before hand but I am anal). These are on the cross member about mid way on the truck, ite were the t bars end, there shopuld even be some stickers by em talking about adjusting the dudes.

    4 Let the truck down and try to bounce the front end a few times to make sure everything is settled. measure at your reference point. repeat crank if neciasary.

    Some aditional notes: i wouldnt adjust over 1.5" over stock hight. Also try to keep the bump stops resting on the a arms still or just a hair of a gap. Also your truck may sit uneven, it is fine to crank em un evenly to get your truck to sit level side to side. I would also get my alignment checked afterwards if this is going to be a permanent thing not just a winter for the plow thing. Also having timbrens wont alter the ride hight and I have the same crank with the timbrens as without em. You bars may sag over time and may sag more side to side, its fine to keep cranking away or adjusting em, the amount of the crank is not big deal and dosnt matter at all, its how much hight you gain. If you do a 1/2 turn and gain 2" thats bad but if you crank till the adjusters bottom out and gain .5" then you are fine.

    EDIT: it still amazes me that they would charge you 500$ Give me thier # so I can call em up and call em a bunch of douchebags. That is freaking UNREAL. A 1/2 hour chrged shop time and if they want to check your alignment for 30$(and align if necisarry) or so is reasonable IMO
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2004
  5. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    Sorry, I was so amazed by the 500$ charge that I forgot my manners. :eek: Welcome:)
  6. MxRob

    MxRob Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    Thanks for the tips folks, I found a shop that did it for me for $65 including the alignment.
    I called back the place that had originally quoted me $500 and had them quote me again for the same work. They told me the same thing again, that it would cost $500. I then told them where to put that quote and hung up......
  7. nsmilligan

    nsmilligan PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 704

    You're wise to have the alignment done especially if your going to use the truck that way, this being summer, year around, I'm like Sonjaab, when I mount my plow tires in the fall I crank up the torsion bar bolts, which I marked with a punch, 5 turns, and back down with the summer tires and rims, in the the spring.

  8. Young Pup

    Young Pup PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,522


    I have an 04 Chevy 2500 ext cab sb. Do you know the max we can raise the torsion bars? Will this do anything to the warranty on the vehicle as well. I see you raise yours 5-6 turns. Do you get front end alignments after doing this or you just have never had to get them while doing this.

    Thanks for the help in advance.

  9. sonjaab

    sonjaab PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    JP..............Mine went up about a 1 1/2 inches.
    I never had a alignment or any front drive problems.

    OEM junk Deathstones.... even wear pattern and looked
    great when I traded it with 29k miles, 3 hard NY winters
    pushin' "white gold" !

    Just cranked it up and back down with the seasons !

    My 04 HD sits about a foot higher than my o1 2500 ld.
    So I many not have to crank it up.
    But haven't put the plow gear on yet to tell.

    This is why ballast is so important. Also Lifts up the nose
    with the blade on!.............geo
  10. Young Pup

    Young Pup PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,522


    Thanks for the information. Unfortunately I don't have the hd so after last year using it I do know that I need to crank it up some. I was thinking of going up 5 turns and with the ballast in the back I am hoping that will work. I was going to put about 500 lbs in the back. I believe that is what I had last year. To much on not enough.


  11. sonjaab

    sonjaab PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    JP...That will work for ya ! HD or not. I used to crank up my 1/2
    tons also. Up in the winter down in the summer.
    Just punchmark those bolt heads and frame rail for reference.
  12. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    on all gm tb equiped vehicals I wouldnt go more than 1.5" above stock ride hight. 1.5 is the max. number of turns dosnt matter, all that matters is what angle the suspention sits at.

    Better to have too much ballast. I run 900-1000k behind the rears but I have a 2500hd.

    Do your measurment/cranking with the weight in the back because weight behind the rear wheels will raise the nose of your truck. I would aslo go by measurments instead of punch marks since the tbars can "sag" a bit over time. JMO
  13. Young Pup

    Young Pup PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,522

    Thank you for all the information guys. This helps extremely to a new guy trying to get it right and make sure that I don't screw it up.


  14. sonjaab

    sonjaab PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    JP.....5-6 turns worked for me. I got about 1 inch or so lift.
    Not enough IMO on these low riding GMs. But it costs nada
    and was easy to do !

    SIPLOWGUY Senior Member
    Messages: 686

    I had a shop teacher who hated Chryslers because they used torsion bars. Funny thing he loved Chevys! I wonder what he drives now?
  16. 66Construction

    66Construction Senior Member
    Messages: 315

    I've had the bars on my 02 2500hd up as far as 12 or 13 turns. This truck gets a 9' fisher in mid November and wears it untill April, Havent had a problem yet or with any other chevy we've cranked up. I know a few guys that put 2" blocks in the back and run the bars all the way up to clear bigger tires, a couple of them have broken the bars though.
  17. Young Pup

    Young Pup PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,522

    Thanks for all the input on this thread. It sure is helping.

    66 construction,

    Are you kidding me? 12 or 13 turns. Was it still sitting lower than the back? Was your ballast in the back when you did this?
  18. itchyfishnv

    itchyfishnv Member
    Messages: 45

    hey does anyone have a picture of where these bolts are? i tried finding them, cant seem to find them maybe i did, i dont want to starting loosening/tightening parts of my suspension if ya know what i mean.. thanx
  19. itchyfishnv

    itchyfishnv Member
    Messages: 45

    actually nevermind i answered my own question with a little search in google.com images.
  20. itchyfishnv

    itchyfishnv Member
    Messages: 45

    Just to make sure this is where you adjust it from... this is it right?

    please let me know