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Toe in

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by jlsanborn, Aug 3, 2003.

  1. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    Just finished king pins in the Dana 60. What should the toe in be for a '77 K30? I have heard that on K models the toe should be zero. Also, if there should be some toe in there, what distance from the center of the wheel should the toe be referenced.
  2. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith 2000 Club Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 2,317

    I can't remember the measurement, but there needs to be a tiny bit of toe in, or the truck will want to wander.

    I'm sure our Master Tech can help you :D

  3. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    I don't have the specs handy,but usually 1/8" of total toe is more than enough (or 1/16" per side).I will check the specs when I'm back in the shop on tuesday,and post them here.

    If you want to do it yourself,then strap two pieces of angle iron to each tire,and measure the difference form front to rear.The front measurement should be 1/8" smaller.Try to keep the steering wheel and tires point straight ahead while adjusting.
  4. DrMaserati

    DrMaserati Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Spec should call for 0 (zero) toe in. As stated above, you could probably get by with 1/8" or less, but any significant amount and you'll start chewing up front tires. I would try for as close to zero as you can get.

  5. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Just checked the book,and spec is 0 degrees +/- 1/8" total.I'd still set it at 1/8",you'll never see any tire wear at that spec,and it will handle better.
  6. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    Thanks for your help. I had a look today and it appears to be toed in about 1/2"
    I tell ya. I just finished king pins, wheel bearings and all the tie rod ends. Really made a difference. Just did a 70 mile commute today and it is evident that there are still some loose ends. Got home and crawled under to discover that the cross member that supports the intermediate drive line bearing has worked the rivets loose. The rubber bushing is mushy. I am going to burn out the old rivets and bolt the thing in tight. I called the parts dude and found that the intermediate bearing is near fifty bucks! What am I getting? I figured it would just be the rubber insert.
  7. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    That bearing sould come complete,including the steel hangar.I've never seen one riveted on,only bolted.Are you sure those rivets aren't just holding the steel frame around the rubber ?
  8. jlsanborn

    jlsanborn Member
    Messages: 34

    the entire cross member has come loose from the frame rails. It will move up and down better than an eighth.
    if i can bolt it down tight it sounds like the new bearing should make it all tight again.
    One day this rig will ride like the big ugly truck it was when it was new!
  9. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    OK,I understand what you mean now.You have no choice but to drill them out.They are tough to drill.Sometimes an air chisel,or a torch is quicker.