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Tapping into fuse block

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by GLS, Aug 28, 2003.

  1. GLS

    GLS Senior Member
    Messages: 248

    I am going to install some aux. flood lights on my truck and I had a question about the wiring.

    I currently have many wires hooked up to the battery (single post). I have the plow wires, dump insert wires, starter wires, and mini lightbar wires. I don't really want to add another set of wires to the battery. I plan on putting in another battery at a later time (which brings up more questions:eek: ) but not right now.

    I don't know a whole lot about wiring, but could I just tap into the fuse block? How much current will it handle?

    Any advice would be appreciated.


    PS Here's how the mini lightbar turned out. I got a magnet mount/suction cup and ran it through the 3rd brake light with a 2-pin connector.

  2. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,040

    I have an auxillary battery hook up point on my firewall. I took a jumper wire off the main lug (behind that cover on the firewall, left of the aircleaner) and put a few unfused links there. I just run the wire where I want to go, with a fuse in it, that way, I know I always have a pretected circut, but the main feed is however, un protected. I will take a picture in the morning before class.

    The lightbar looks good. I wanted to get a highlighter, but I got a better deal on my ECCO 5135.
  3. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    You could add a binding post,to give you more room for all your connections,and take some of the load off your one battery post.

    Mount it near the battery,and use a short 2 gauge jumper from the positive battery post,to the binding post.You can then add everything from there.

    I'd use a small switch,and a relay,to control the floodlights.Then you only need small wires to and from the switch,and one heavier wire,from the battery to relay,and relay to lights.
  4. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    IMO just about everything you have listed should be run with relays. I have a bunch of them lined up on the inner fender with a heavy guage feed wire. Then out with good stranded wire to whatever load the run. This allows me to have very small switches run with small wire (I used a computer cable) to control everything. Shorter the high amp runs the better.
  5. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    I took a 10 gauge hot lead off the hot side of the starter solenoid, away from the corrosive elements of the battery. From here I went to a breaker box I got a Car Quest, it has 6 15 amp breakers in it, and routed all my accessories to it. You can switch out the breakers to higher value if you need and it offers protection to your circuits.
  6. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,154

    I have the same problems with my trucks,too many things to hook up:D .On my Dodge i use this add on fuse baox,it isnt cheap,but it works great. I run all my lower draw accesorys off this fuse box. (my strobes, guages,edge comp box,boss plow controller,nitrous oxide activation switch:D ,transmission controller/ex brake,etc,etc. I Run any higher draws items (twin rotators,aux lights on the spreader)with a relay next to the batterys,and run the trigger wires into the cab.I usually run the ground into the cab,so this keeps all 12V+ wiring under the hood,just ground the wire,and the relay turns on.This makes wiring inside easier too. On my Dodge I have a good sized fuse box under the hood with a big cover,and a lot of extra spaces.I added a few inline fuses and they are all inside the fuse box too.I have an aux fuel pump relay,and fuse in there,Nitrous bottole heater fues/relay,and nitrous controller power coming from there as well.
  7. Arc Burn

    Arc Burn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,141

    Sounds like Johnny D owns stock in a fuse company:D