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Taking Off Hoses Off Meyers

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by PLOWMAN45, Aug 6, 2003.

  1. PLOWMAN45

    PLOWMAN45 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,951

  2. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    They are probably just siezed.Use a line wrench so you don't strip them,and make sure your turning the swivel side,and not the line side.

    A propane torch may be neccesary if they are really siezed.Just heat the swivel,and not the hose end.
  3. PLOWMAN45

    PLOWMAN45 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,951


  4. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    You should be able to get some line wrenches at most good auto parts places or tool stores.Sears also has them.

    Most common sizes for the hose end fittings are 11/16".Some may use 5/8".

    The swivels are usually all 3/4"

    It wouldn't hurt to try some normal wrenches on them first just to get the sizes you need.Or just buy a set that goes from 3/8" to 13/16".They are the most common sizes.

    Sometimes tapping swivels gently with a hammer will help free them up.
  5. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    One tip when using wrenches it to position the two wrenches about 30-40 degress apart,then use one hand to squeeze the two wrenches together.Saves busted knuckles.Don't use two hands (one on each wrench) as they will either strip or pinch your hands when they come together.

    If they still won't budge,then consider just cutting the hoses,and actually unscrewing the fittings right from the rams and the valve block.New hoses and fittings are cheap.Sometimes once you cut the hose,you can get a socket on the fitting,and you'll be able to get them out easily.
  6. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Don't forget some of the older Meyers came with the couple attached to the Hose. No way of removing it. Replacement meant replacing the whole hose.

    I don't think the newer plows are like this. We put "normal" hoses and couplers on my brother's Meyer.
  7. PLOWMAN45

    PLOWMAN45 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,951


  8. BWhite

    BWhite Senior Member
    Messages: 496

    correct wrenches ?

    Do you mean flare nut wrenches by "line wrenches" ?
  9. PLOWMAN45

    PLOWMAN45 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,951

    I dont know i need to change the fluid in the ram cyclinders and i wanna swap out some new hoses it cant be this tight what if i have an emergency at night
  10. BWhite

    BWhite Senior Member
    Messages: 496

    keep trying

    you have to get them loose. Keep trying, use penetrating oil, little bit of heat , leverage you would rather shear the fitting off now than in the middle of a storm . check them all . As a matter of fact I am going to put that on my list of things to do
  11. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Flare nut wrenches,line wrenches,same thing,different name.

    See pic attached.

    line wrenches.jpg
  12. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    If you line up the wrenches right you can squeeze them together in your hands. This will let you apply a lot of force without twisting at the same time. Just watch your fingers.

    I never understood why they tighten them so much. They should not leak if put on snug. No reason to wrench down on them.
  13. Garagekeeper

    Garagekeeper Senior Member
    Messages: 459


    Plowman: Hope you have your hydraulic hoses removed by now.
    But if not get yourself a good pipe wrench to remove those stuck hoses.
    If your going to replace the hoses anyway a little damage to the fitting ends wouldn't be a problem.
    Have found that some of the lesser quality open end wrench sets ends just open up when you try to use them on tight fittings and hose ends.
    If your going to buy line wenches you need to get the heavy wall combination "open end" style like Snap-on makes, because your more than likely not going to get the closed end of a regular line wrench over the hose or the threaded part of the fitting.
    When you do put the new ones on use a thread sealent, not tape. And don't tighten then hoses down as tight, the thread is tapered and as "ct18" said really need to be only snug in most cases. :rolleyes: John
  14. Big Nate's Plowing

    Big Nate's Plowing PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,266

    nobody has mentioned a 4 ft piece of 1½" exhaust pipe makes a good cheater. Crank down on that sucker and it will break free;)
  15. BRL

    BRL PlowSite.com - Veteran
    Messages: 1,277

    "When you do put the new ones on use a thread sealent, not tape."

    Are you talking about the blue liquid stuff that you brush on? (don't have a can near me and I can't remember what it's called) Never thought to use the real thing before LOL. Why not the tape out of curiousity? I have never had a problem with it. But from what I've observed, the vast majority of people don't know how to use it properly, so I can see lots of problems because of its use. The liquid sealer is a great idea because it's easier to train employees to use that correctly than the tape.
  16. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Most of the liquid stuff I have seen is white.Liquid teflon pipe sealant.

    The biggest reason not to use tape,is if any little bit is hanging off the ends,it can get into the hydraulic system and plug up the valves.

    If your stuck,tape will work just fine,as long as you don't get any over the end of the fitting,and it is wrapped in the right direction,so when you tighten the fitting,it doesn't peel the tape off.

    Looking at the open end,or threaded end of the fitting,you would wrap the tape clockwise.
  17. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Geeze I guess I am doing it wrong. Still I never get leaks. I don't use any sealant. Just snug the connections down and never have leaking problems. I would bet some leaks come from overtightening things.
  18. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Your probably right CT.Overtightening things,especially tapered pipe threads,will cause leaks,and even damage threads.

    If something is too loose,you can always tighten it (except for wheel nuts and head bolts :D),but if you overtighten it in the first place,your usually screwed.
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2003
  19. CT18fireman

    CT18fireman Banned
    Messages: 2,133

    Most things have torque values for a reason. I often see breakages because bolts were overtightened. On the fittings and the Aluminum blocks that most hydraulic manifolds are made from once you wrench it down then it is probably to late.
  20. nofearpi

    nofearpi Junior Member
    Messages: 26

    same problem

    i bought the wrenches that were mention but can't get them on the bolt. i have put so much lube spray that there is a big spot on the garage floor. any suggestions. i dont have a torch to heat it up. the swivel is on the top and i don't think it comes off.