Suggestions for old diamond plow.

AA961JESTER

Junior Member
Location
NEW JERSEY
I recently purchased a 1984 Chevy K30 with a 71/2 Diamond Plow. This plow is probably just as old as the truck. It is a hydrolic unit, not the electric hydrolic I have been used to. With these engine driven units, what should I watch for that typically go wrong. What are the strengths and weaknesses. I also want to stock spare parts. Besides belt, disconnects and hose, what else should I keep. One thing I like about this unit it seems simpilar than the westerns and meyers I have had in the past. I like KISS. Also, does anyone know where I can get parts for this online. I usualy use Angelos, but he doesn't carry Diamond parts. I only found one other discount part place but they did not have much.
 

Pelican

2000 Club Member
I ran 2 Diamonds for 6 years, both with belt driven pumps, they were very dependable plows. The only things I replaced in that time was 1 pump shaft seal, 1 hitch pin setup(the original fell out), hoses on one unit dry rotted.

Niether solenoid valve assembly gave me a bit of trouble. Every season, it was hook up the belt and plow and go, no problems to chase. Just remembered, I replaced 1 Slick Stick controller that wore out.

The down side is the weight. These are heavy plows, but very durable. As a result, you can expect to replace cutting edges more frequently, especially if road plowing.
 

JD PLOWER

PlowSite.com Veteran
Location
Somerville MA.
Try the link below for Diamond parts. You're correct about it being simple and easy to maintain. Having had older Fisher pump setups like this the best advice I can give you is to keep the fluid clean, the valve body properly adjusted and the belt tight (carry a spare). You might want to buy a pump as a backup since this pump might be on its last legs and you don't want to find that out during a storm. Also check all the bolts and frame parts for cracks and repairs. As far as a disadvantage goes these pumps run off of engine speed so they probably won't compare favorably to your experience with the electrics in raising the plow but they do give you a lighter touch (something I miss with the electrics).

http://www.snowplowparts.com/#diamondpartmisc
 
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AA961JESTER

Junior Member
Location
NEW JERSEY
Thanks for the input guys. This is my first belt driven pump. I have a question. Should the belt be left on year round to keep the pump turning, or should I remove the belt during the off season?
Thanks ahead of time for the reply.
 

Pelican

2000 Club Member
Same here, it puts unnecessary drag on the motor and extra wear on the pump. It wouldn't hurt to turn it manually by hand a few turns occasionally to keep the seal lubricated and prevent it from sticking to the shaft.
 

90plow

Senior Member
Location
New Jersey
The belt driven pump is probably jsut as reliable if not more than the electric because there arent any solenoids or electrical connections to get wet or go bad its a simpler way to do it valves for hydrolics ussually wont fail but will need to be replace as time goes on (correct me if Im wrong). They are a little slower. They also wont kill your battery or dim your lights which is a plus. Just some thoughts
Eric
 
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AA961JESTER

Junior Member
Location
NEW JERSEY
I appreciate the responses I have been getting. I checked the sites you guys sent to me and they have some of the parts I have been looking for. Does anyone know where I could get a spare pump or valve body assembly. I did not find them on these sites.
 

Pelican

2000 Club Member
They are practically the same.
The pumps are the same! The seal I referenced above I ended up getting from the Fisher dealer, our Diamond dealer dropped the line. Also, when outfitting my '97, I used a Fisher pump bracket, Diamond had discontinued theirs.

Jester, you'll find many parts are interchangable between snowplow brands, especially when running off a belt driven pump. You can run any plow valve assembly, just hook your hoses to it.

My trucks had a solenoid valve assembly, operated by a 4 way toggle called the Slick Stick, and it was what it's called, pretty slick. These assemblys were pricey, though, listed at $1500 as a replacement part.
 

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