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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pre season I had to disassemble the power/ground connections at the battery and clean those with a wire wheel- the cause was my solenoid would click like a car starter with a dead battery- rapid machine gun clicking.

Today, my plow (Snoway 22 series- ProControl II hardwired) was working great all morning, and suddenly it would only give me a single click from the solenoid when I would try to raise, lower, or angle either direction. Pulled the cover, tapped everything with a ratchet, removed, checked, and replaced the fuse, and it started working.

Did 2 more properties, and it did it again while the truck was idling while I snowblowed walks. Pulled the cover, disassembled and wire wheeled all power/ground cables and studs on the motor and solenoid. Before doing this work, the red light was flashing on the controller like it usually does. Worked fine for 1 more, and then got the no go angle or up click again. Lowering the plow brought everything back online. It would work until it wouldn't, and once I'd lower the blade I was back in business with full control.

Looking at the troubleshooting guide it would be either the solenoid or motor. Would either one cause an issue like this? It seems almost like it's a sticking valve that pressure from lowering the plow frees, or something electrical for the odd way it's acting.

I kind of feel like it's not lifting or lowering as fast, but now I'm paranoid and paying more attention to the plow's behavior and sounds. It could be that I added some non Snoway fluid I picked up at TSC causing that.

What are your guys' thoughts?
 

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A clicking solenoid can still be bad.
A rapid fire solenoid could be caused by
Not having the proper voltage/amps to hold it and it’s rapidfire clicking, it could be bad.
clean all of the connections.
Clean off any dielectric grease.


fluid, is it a W 32 rated hydraulic fluid?
It might be the fluid. did you clean the screen?


Low voltage from a faulty solenoid could also cause you’re motor to run slow from getting insufficient amperage.
 

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Sounds to me like perhaps the brushes are sticking, as it happened after sitting, and, worked for a while after lowering(the bump). Anyway, the thing to do would be,when it acts up, have someone hold the switch, to raise or swing, and tap on the motor. Unfortunate, all these newer plows have these big plastic covers, but perhaps you can reach under it with a bar or something, that can touch the motor, and tap it with a hammer or mallet. At least, carry a big mallet/hammer, like a plastic covered one, like a no bounce hammer, and smack the plow or lift frame, see if that makes the motor take off. If the brush holders are rusty, you should be able to clean them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll get a new solenoid and see if it persists, as well as physically clean the grease out of my truck to plow connector with screwdrivers and electrical cleaner. Shouldn't Oreiley's or Napa have a solenoid that would work?

How do I clean the screen? Should I be able to access it with some 45 or 90* needlenose through the fill or does it just unscrew from the pump? I've honestly never looked in the tank other than to verify fluid level.

I'm kind of over a barrel with fluid. I thought I had some behind my exmark hydro fluid and didn't. The closest snoway dealer is over 2 hours away- my next plow will be supported locally. It's my first plow and I didn't research dealer support prior to purchase. The fluid I used is this:

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds to me like perhaps the brushes are sticking, as it happened after sitting, and, worked for a while after lowering(the bump). Anyway, the thing to do would be,when it acts up, have someone hold the switch, to raise or swing, and tap on the motor. Unfortunate, all these newer plows have these big plastic covers, but perhaps you can reach under it with a bar or something, that can touch the motor, and tap it with a hammer or mallet. At least, carry a big mallet/hammer, like a plastic covered one, like a no bounce hammer, and smack the plow or lift frame, see if that makes the motor take off. If the brush holders are rusty, you should be able to clean them.
Looking at a parts schematic, it should just unbolt from the manifold? Any special cleaners or methods for cleaning them or just common sense?

Looking at the same schematic, it looks like the tanks is held on with a hose clamp. Should be easy to access the filter if that's the case.
 

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That fluid is fine to use
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
So I tried pulling the truck in to service and the plow wouldn't move. I slapped the motor with the padded end of my ratchet and it worked. I couldn't/was afraid to totally disassemble the motor, but ran about a 1/2 can of brake clean followed by 3/4 can of electric parts cleaner through, always draining down/pump side. Sprayed both up and down. Lots of black dust came out, not quite a stripper glitter party.

Also cleaned out the old dielectric grease from the connectors and repacked with fresh after cleaning with electric parts cleaner.

Picking up the solenoid at Napa tonight. Will hopefully put on tomorrow a.m.- we have late Christmas with my side of the family in the afternoon and we're potentially getting another 1-2" in the evening.

Bright side the plow lifted and angled after the service. We'll see how she does after sitting a day. Don't want to touchdown dance on the 5 yard line.
 

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So I tried pulling the truck in to service and the plow wouldn't move. I slapped the motor with the padded end of my ratchet and it worked. I couldn't/was afraid to totally disassemble the motor, but ran about a 1/2 can of brake clean followed by 3/4 can of electric parts cleaner through, always draining down/pump side. Sprayed both up and down. Lots of black dust came out, not quite a stripper glitter party.

Also cleaned out the old dielectric grease from the connectors and repacked with fresh after cleaning with electric parts cleaner.

Picking up the solenoid at Napa tonight. Will hopefully put on tomorrow a.m.- we have late Christmas with my side of the family in the afternoon and we're potentially getting another 1-2" in the evening.

Bright side the plow lifted and angled after the service. We'll see how she does after sitting a day. Don't want to touchdown dance on the 5 yard line.
Post pic of solenoid before you install it. Don’t put some aftermarket Chinese junk solenoid on.
 

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Is Buyer's chinese junk? Figured it's at Napa so it's safer than Amazon, and I thought Buyers is a plow MFR.....looks to be the only one locally I can get.

Ya, I kinda get tired of the "made in China is junk", virtually everyone here is connected by a china product. Products made elsewhere are dependent on the company specifications they are provided with,and testing. BUT, it is the no-name packaging I have learned avoid. Yes, manufacturers sometimes have runs of inferior products, Buyers had a run of poor solenoids.Heck,I remember Harman having a bad run of stove igniters, made in the USA, and were replacing them free for about 2 years. Buyers has expanded and grown, so it is not in their benefit to sell junk, BUT, sometimes the factory items are better, which is why they cost more. Another good example is car/truck fuel pumps, AC/Delco used to be the king,especially for GM products, but now sell a lot if "china junk", to be price competitive, for older vehicles. VDO, a once fine German company, now sells a whole lot of low price junk, especially thier heater motor blowers. Things constantly change.
 

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does anyone know about a curtis snow pro 3000 im looking for a diagram of internal components of the valve manifold (1TBP59AP2) i took it apart and a small circular part fell out of one of the hydralic line holes and i dont no witch one it came out of, or the right direction it goes back in are there any mannuals or diagrams out there i havent been able to find anything line that shows the internal components of the valve manifold
 
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