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SNOWDOGG toggle switch meltdown

Discussion in 'SnowDogg Snow Plows' started by jonnyrooster, Feb 10, 2013.

  1. jonnyrooster

    jonnyrooster Junior Member
    Messages: 9

    i have a MD 75 on my '04 colorado, installed myself 11/10. all has worked good untill now with the exception of fuse blowing which was corrected with the service bulletin to increase the fuse from 10A to 15A. the plow was installed with the option 1 in the install manual utilizing the toggle to turn off and on lights and power the controller. after plowing the other day, i went to drop the plow and the toggle switch had melted down, replaced it with a larger quality toggle switch and now the toggle switch gets very warm, almost hot. i did read volts with a meter at 13.99. all works well as before with the exception of the hot toggle. any help or ideas is appreciated.
    Scott Moorman (smoorman) your insight would be great. thanks in advance.
  2. jonnyrooster

    jonnyrooster Junior Member
    Messages: 9

    Snowdogg toggle meltdown

    got an addition to toggle melt problem, while trying to diagnose this myself, today while plowing i DID NOT hook up the light harness, NO HOT WIRES, so, obviously the problem is part of the plow lights. any help help or ideas is appreciated. thanks
  3. smoorman

    smoorman Sponsor
    Messages: 447

    Switched ground trucks CAN pull over 10A - some are worse than others, hence the need for a 15A fuse.

    That switch was rated for 20A - so I'm surprised that there was a problem. That said, we've eliminated Option 1 (eliminated the toggle switch) as it doesn't really serve any useful purpose. The lights switch automatically, so the switch really doesn't do anything. After talking to dealers last year, very few ever installed it (nobody likes popping holes in the dashboard if it's not necessary).

    The wires used are rated for up to 20A, so if your 15A fuse is not blowing, you should be fine. It may be that the toggle had a lose/bad connection internally causing the problem.

    If you are very concerned, you could route the GRAY wire from your light relay box to a seperate ignition switched source under the hood (put a 15A fuse on it). That will seperate the controller and lights and reduce the amp draw through the circuit a bit.

    You are correct that the lights draw much more current than the plow controls do.
  4. jonnyrooster

    jonnyrooster Junior Member
    Messages: 9

    thanks, i will re-route that grey wire, the switch gets very warm now, i am concerned. it may have been like that since install i just may have not noticed. thanks again.
  5. PlowingMI

    PlowingMI Senior Member
    Messages: 102

    Are you saying the inline fuse that was a 10 amp, but due to lighting problems was suggested to bump up to a 15 amp fuse, that a 20 amp fuse can be used? I ask, because I blew five 15 amp fuses last night while plowing.
  6. smoorman

    smoorman Sponsor
    Messages: 447

    You CAN put a 20A fuse in, but I would guess there is something else going on. You should never see over 15A.

    You can do what I suggested above - isolating the hydraulics from the lights - that should at least identify where the issue is. I would guess you've got an intermittent short somewhere. I talked to a guy last week who's light relay module was mounted close to the wheel well and would get water in it while driving causing an intermittent short.