We have one, and I am VERY happy with it. Don't let Alan fool you. The only ones who know more about these plows are the engineers that designed them ..... let me rephrase that... the engineers might know more than Alan!
thanks for the reply guys . i was on a snowplow wb sight just looking ill give you a little info i live in nh where we tend to get a fair amount of snow i live in a apartment now so iam in no big rush to get a plow right now. but i will be buying a house about 30 miles west where they tend to get even more snow. and most of the driveways out there are packed dirt types and some are very longggggggggggggg/ well here goes i bought a new dodge dakota slt model with a 4.7 liter v8 its loaded nice wheels tires cruise all the toys and the other day i started asking dealers about plow setups for my truck first i called a fisher dealer he said fisher will not let them install a setup on my truck because of the trucks gvw. but if it was a v6 engine they could so i was a little bsd by that so i have been surfing around the web and i saw the snowway sight and that they have a dealer in my town which was closed yesterday. so my questions are 1- should i look into these snoway plows for my truck or should i look into a new truck in the spring?? i wont be plowing that much just my driveway and a friends who also lives in the town i will be moving to in the spring and information on these setups would be great, also sorry about the long message
On the subject, Everyone I have ever spoke to that owns them, cant say enough about them. I think the biggest advantage I have heard is from the ones with clear polly being able to see what is in front of the blade....
Off the subject, if anyone knows who I could get a used mount for a 8' poly sno way, I would be greatful... Here is what I have to restore, but not big on getting on it until I have a mount so I can use it.... Looks to be a few year of use, but can't wait to push with it.....
I was scared when i bought it,,not knowing anything about them and all and only having 1 dealer around here for them,but i must say i love this thing and the down presssure only makes your driveway's look nicer.
1 tip make sure you never leave your down pressure on while pushing "FORWARD". My head still hurts like HE11 !!!!!!
Sno-Way should make a mount for that truck. Shouldn't be an issue with weight. You've got power aplenty for anything up to an 8' Series 25( the model #s have changed lately, not sure just what the new model would be called) I wouldn't recommend going 8' though, it takes a little getting used to having that much width hanging out in front.
I think a 7'4" or 7'6" moldboard would be about right for you. You can mix and match moldboard sizes from the various models on either of the two downpressure push frames. I'd want what used to be called the Series 25 frame, as it runs heavier material in the swing frame as well as higher pressure on the downpressure circuit.
Regardless of what you're told, you will want the light kit. While the clear skin will let the truck lights show through a little it is my opinion that it is not safe to drive that way. Possibly on a tall truck where you could carry the blade lower than the headlights but I don't feel that is the place to save money.
If that's an 8' moldboard it should be on a Series 25 frame. Places to check for wear/damage are the bushing where the blade pivots. If they are run with the pivot pin (1" bolt) loose they will hammer the bushing until the welds fail where it is assembled into the push frame. You can get total destruction of a push frame from that. Been there, done that. Other problem spots are where the power unit mounts to the push frame. There is a distinct crease where the metal was formed (hit too hard with the upper die in the brake) and that makes a stress riser which will crack. Again, this is from the pivot bolt being loose. I came up with a long term fix for that, if you find cracking there let me know and I'll get pictures of my fix, that would be easier than trying to describe it. Last spot is where the "top" of the push frame is welded to the angle side pieces. They had a lot of trouble with cold welds in that spot. Before I put a new plow (or the push frame I had to replace) into service I grind out and reweld about 2" of factory bead in that area, just in case.
I have the clear plow and you definitely want to get the lights. I have a 2500hd and I didn't like having the plow so low, plus you can't see the turn signals. The only problem I found was visibilty; a clear plow is almost as bad as a black plow, so I put reflective 3M tape on the plow. Problem solved. DP is one of the best things since sliced bread.
wow thanks for the helpfull information guys is sure is very helpfull now i will see what kind of price the dealer gives me for a setup for my 2002 dakota slt . curious how is the price on a snoway setup compared tto like a fisher ect?? thanks again all. ps i realy think those pictures of your trucks are cool and also hello to my neighbor to mynorth west i guess as i live in nh and he lives in vermont
Thanks, I will check all of those when I strip it for paint touch up. The width of the entire blade end to end is 8", measured it last night again to be sure, but I found that the person I got it from only had the plow shown and the control box. The wires from the control box are not long enough to make it to the Plow wires or any to the battery, so I believe I am missing some wireing as well. With you having great knowlege with these, would you know of anywhere to find the mount or missing wireing? I thought about just contacting sno way, but was not sure if that would be the best way to go... I am looking for a dealer that is closer, but it seems I may have to drive hours to get to the nearest one..... Your thought's are appreciated.
As to the lights, get them, I will be mounting them on prior to running this one, and also get some good reflect tape on it it will save you in the long run.
Alan--> i was doing some cleanup work last nite at one of my commercials and they have 2 manholes in the middle of the lot,,,well i backdragged out the parking spaces and went to plow the rest of lot,,caught the manhole cover and the truck stopped dead....hurt like you know what.
Another guy i know runs the same blade,,doing a resi. driveway (concrete) did the same thing when the blade caught a lip in the driveway. He always told me never to push with D/P on and so did my Dealer.
I have a question for you ? how did u put U edges on with the stupid rubber they use in the center ?? Could you take a picture closer so i can see what it looks like. Nobody around here uses them and i am thinking of going with them next year, on both my sno-way and western.
Any thoughts if they would work on my back plow ????
Hey OffRoadPlow, I have 2 snoway mounts, one is for a ford and one is for a chevy, I'm not sure if you wanted something specific or you were making a custom setup.
Hey Alan, I also have a lobo and wondered about those edges you have shown on your trucks, I've never seen them before, can you clue me in. What did you do with your stock edges?
I have the controls, and the Plow, just missing the mount and some wireing. Any assistance is appreciated, I am going to start stripping it soon, and then paint just need the mount and some missing wires...
Thanks again for all of the information on the sno way.
The "mount" is actually two pieces, one that the plow hooks to (nosepiece) and is universal. The other is truck specific and adapts the nosepiece to fit a specific vehicle. The Chevy kit will fit 88-97 at least, we've had it on an 89 and a 97.
There are two wiring harnesses involved in truck side of the plow wiring as well a solenoid and a circuit breaker. One harness mounts on the bumper and accepts the plug from the plow. The other plugs into the first one and goes through the firewall and connects to the leads on the control box.
There are two battery cables involved as well. The supplied ones are usually way longer than needed and are a bit light guage, in my opinion. One goes from battery positive to the breaker, the second ties between breaker and solenoid. The harness which has the big plug has two big terminals which go to the output side of the solenoid (red wire) and to battery negative (black wire). The other half of the harness has a ground and a red wire which needs to be connected to a switched hot lead. There is also a lead in there to hook to the solenoid trigger terminal and a jumper to go from solenoid ground to battery negative.
The worst part of the wriing install is finding a place to drill through the firewall and places to put the breaker and solenoid.
I just bought a control box on eBay and I think it is coming with that side of the harness included. No idea what it's worth or when it will get here but we can do some dickering on it, I'll do you better than a dealer will.
That is what I need, if you have any wireing diags, please email or post them to me. I get the basics of what I am needing, I will try to post a pic of just the rear of the plow, I think I will need both pieces of the mount though.... Can't wait to run it, Even though it is streight, I will have to save for the V or Lobo until other Toys are paid for....
Thanks again. And please do let me know what you have left over for wireing... would be happy to deal on them..