1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Snow pusher reviews

Discussion in 'Boss Plows Discussion' started by Ne1, Dec 30, 2013.

  1. Ne1

    Ne1 Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    Does anyone have any reviews/feedback after using these. I'm looking at some 10' for skid loaders.
  2. SnowGuy73

    SnowGuy73 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 24,870

    There was another member from area that was on Plowsite saying didn't like them. Don't remember the reason, sorry.
  3. bb1069

    bb1069 Junior Member
    from Kansas
    Messages: 12

    From what I have seen there a lot of good units available, and a lot of different prices. If you want a box alone, Pro-tech's are good and I especially like the one that has double skid-loader brackets so you have a rubber or steel cutting edge all in one, but they are pricier, but they don't have a drag back blade option on this model. They do have other models. Buyers Snow Dogg is not bad for the money.
    You want to look for an adjustable rubber cutting edge that is 1.5" thick, braced heavy side panels , AR400 steel cutting shoes (adjustable shoes can be nice, especially if you plan on running a steel cutting edge sometimes, since most steel cutting edges are not adjustable). Make sure the replacement shoes are reasonably priced, because you will wear them out. Stainless steel bolts on cutting edge tensioner plates are nice too, because you will be adjusting the rubber bit occasionally ( with adjustable shoes, you don't have to as much. Also make sure that the cutting edges cover a lot of area and the leading and trailing ends come up enough to jump a curb.Check your overall weight because depending on what you are using for a skid-loader, you can get too heavy especially on a 10 footer. There are some adjustable width ones out there that are pretty slick if you have to work in tighter areas sometimes, that can adjust down to 8', but they are pricey. IF you have a little welding skill, you can take a highway dept. plow and covert it to a skid-loader box like I did with a 11' Hinke for my backhoe and it works great ( on it's 4th season on one set of shoes I made and same rubber bit ( 2" thick x 10" tall which is in very good shape) and just getting ready for it's second set of shoes. I bought the plow w/a new steel bit, for 125.00 from a salvage yard, they gave me a new rubber bit that they didn't know what it was for, that had been laying around, and bought the 5" wide x 3/4" High abrasive steel, the 3/8" side plate from them for the side, and all of the tubing, flat steel, etc. etc.. all from the same salvage yard. I bought the bolts from the local wholesale bolt co... My buddy and I got out the 14" carbide shop saw, the plasma cutter, and the mig welder and 3 hours later, we had a done 11' box built for under 200.00 .. Though if you had to buy the rubber cutting edge new it would run 600.00 or more. I am going to make the new shows adjustable, and would have made the old ones that way but we only had six hours max before the storm hit, so we didn't do some things I had made the design for. It is a very stout unit. This was the very first box I had built. I moved to a new farm and don't have a big new shop built yet, so I don't have the room I had, but I have most of the stuff I need and have a design that I have worked on in my down time, and am going to make some pretty slick units this year sometime. I may not get time to build them until this fall. I do have a couple of lighter angle truck plows that I am fitting to skidloaders and am going to put extension wings on them, which work pretty well for a plow and carry somewhat like a box. When building, you want to make sure you maintain the bit angle ( usually 80-85 degrees per orig. mfr.) You can even go down and have them blasted and powder coated for about $150.00-200.00 or you can paint on a good slippery type paint job for about the same. That's around here anyway. Personally, My son-inlaw owns a body shop, so painting is no big deal for me, since I push his snow for him. You can usually trade out stuff if you know anybody.
    I just found factory snow boxes on line factory direct from Kentucky, that don't look too bad at all ( an 8' skid-loader box for 1475.00 including immediate shipping, and a 10' wasn't much more). I don't have the particulars in front of me right now, but I will try to dig them out. Note: they have to be delivered to a business address and be able to unload them from the truck ( they will not deliver to a private address). If you want a angle blade and a box all-in-one, the KAGE unit are pretty slick units, but they are not cheap and there is another mfr. of a similar unit avail. It's just what you want to spend. You can buy a unit now that has bucket loader and skid-loader brackets both on them now, so you can use it on both now, but I can't remember the brand right now.
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2013
  4. Ne1

    Ne1 Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    I have a few Sectional snow pushers and they are nice but lots of moving parts. Around here there are lots of new Boss pushers but I haven't heard anything good or bad from real users. Surely there are guys on here that have them that could give there thoughts.
  5. bb1069

    bb1069 Junior Member
    from Kansas
    Messages: 12

    I am going to give you more info than you may want, read it or not. Sorry, I sometimes get on a subject when I'm bored with nothing else to do at the time and go on and on, BUT I get A LOT of work this way around here, so my faults work out sometimes in the end.
    Remember that the more you push with a truck plow, the more transmission problems you may have. We beef them up w/HD clutch packs, etc. and service them. Keep them waxed so snow slides better and pushes with less resistance . We actually prefer heavy equipment to truck plows in most cases and use trucks for outlying areas off our main corridors, where we have to travel much. Poly or plex. moleboard faces have their advantages and their faults. Its personal preference. I like steel even though there heavier, because I can fix them and they don't shatter like some I've seen.
    Don't have one of the movable v-wing plows myself right now, but have been shopping around, but have friends and family that do. My son on the Nebraska-South Dakota line does serious snow removal and has the Hiniker brand models and loves them. He has one that can even roll forward for back-dragging. He is like me and is designing one of his own. He says that Boss, Western and Fisher are some of the others he sees, but Hiniker seems to be the chosen ones there, because of dealer and parts available 24 hrs a day during bad conditions. I have found that from working on them, being in many different organizations and going to different seminars and equipment shows as far east as Vegas clear to the East Coast, that a lot of what people use is controlled by the local dealers and support of the product, dependability, as well as availability of parts in a pinch. Price of replacement parts can also enter into it. Around here, people use a lot of Boss, Western, a few Heinke, and seeing more and more and more Hinikers. You used to see a lot of Meyers and some Fischer straight plows, but less now.You have a limited time to get the work done and can't afford to be down very long. Also look at the weight of the unit. Since these are heavier, make sure that your springs and frame can handle it. We used to beef up the 3/4 ton truck springs, and some of the 1 tons even though we ordered heavy duty trucks.
    These units work best on heavier built trucks. We bought one of the first available units years ago, made by DIAMOND PRODUCTS, who I believe Fisher bought. It had a lower trip edge and a good shoe system. It was a heavy and well built unit, but it was actually a little heavy for a 8600 lb. GVW truck, so it got used on a HD gas 1ton most of the time. The newer ones are lighter but still heavy. The original hydro driven pump that our dealer installed did not meet my design spec. as I warned our maint. garage, and did not do well because it was not low rpm constant flow capable and you had to keep engine rev'd to work good. We raised some cane, but we ended up putting a different pump on ourselves and everybody fell in love with it. It had a valve body under the hood with heavy cable and lever operated controls mounted in cab. It Worked flawlessly for 25 yrs on different trucks that we set up with a problem one except when someone didn't grease the center wing shaft and let it cease, shearing the shaft lockdown bolt, but we fixed that and never had another problem ever. We worked it hard, but we service our stuff well. The plow was still in excellent shape when they sold it at auction, and it brought good money when it sold. Note: it had raised curled wings toward the outside, so it really shot the snow out the side. We used belt driven hydraulics and were able to run a sander on the same hydraulics.
    They are all good when they work! Personally, I prefer a belt drive pump system on the engine for a chosen system if your raising and lowering, etc. a lot., do a lot of snow removal, and plan on keeping the truck awhile. Very important to use a constant flow pump, that operates well at low engine rpm. These type systems, though can be more expensive and are not as switchable from truck to truck unless you have a pump on each truck, are very dependable. They can be fitted with manual or electric cylenoid valve controls, etc. that can run either a straight plow or a sectional v-plow, etc., but think about this up front when building system so that you have enough valves to handle it. For sanders, on pickups and 1 tons, we loved FPI fiberglass sanders w/ stainless steel drive chains, though on the engine driven ones, as with all of them, you have to keep sand/salt out of engine compartment and strip down the electro-mag. clutch every year and cleanup shafts, etc. every year at end of season to keep from ceasing on shaft or corroding. Maintenance is the key to all. Change you fluids regularly, good quality greasing and dielectric grease on elect. connections. Good HD batteries on everything, with quick recovery rate. Doesn't hurt to spend money for a good HD high amp. alternator as well, with good heavy battery, pwr cables, and very good grounds. YES, very good grounding. Any splicing or electrical ends you need to put on, use high quality, preferably nickel plated connectors w/ heat shrink built into connector, using good crimpers that don't tear the insulation and apply a little dielectric grease to wire end before installing into crimp connector, which I recommend for all connections and bulbs and bulb sockets, etc..
    Don't use the cheap bolt-on battery cable ends. If you can, use solder or crimp-on type or already made up factory units and the heaviest you can find. YOU WON'T be sorry for all of this. These things will help with down time on all of them and get rid of corrosion and heat to you elect systems, etc. and getting much longer life from them. Keep spare consumables around. Some offer kits to keep behind the seat. Buy them or make your own kit. If your going to be a serious pusher, you have to do the work and be prepared if you want to keep the contracts. I have Every contract I started with since I retired my main job and went back to excavating, snow removal, etc. in winter of 2002 and have every one since. Never had a complaint from customers on quality, or how fast we got it done. Have had a few over the years leave us at the start of the year, looking for the cheaper guy, ending up calling us back and taking over again within one or two pushes. We do ice control as a courtesy for the most part to keep some contracts, because we won't do half cocked ice control because of the liability it puts you in and storage of material each wants. We have downsized and are too busy pushing the snow, and will usually set someone up with them to use on the ice control and sidewalks if they have a lot of them. We could do it, but it is not that profitable around here, requires much more manpower if your going to do a fast, high quality job, and just isn't worth it anymore. We do mostly commercial work, but do take on private work for people from those companies, their friends, and a few others, that are in the vicinity of our commercial jobs. We try to take everything in a particular business corridor, jumping from one to the other, not having to travel very far. Works very well and we make a lot more money, less fuel and wear and tear on our equipment. We are also able to go out and take pictures before hand, mark obstruction if needed, etc.. We make sure, even though we have a small crew now, that everyone is on the same page and trained. VERY Efficient. We mainly use backhoes w/push boxes, skid-loaders w/buckets, plows, and push-boxes, one or two 4x4 tractors w/loaders and back attachments,and a few truck plows when needed w/one sander now, along with other misc. eqp. We are looking at getting a articulating loader w/various attachments, and have seriously looked at getting a used Bombardier SW-4 track snow pusher w/a combo plow, and maybe some other attachments mainly for sidewalks and smaller areas. I have people up north that swear by them in big cities, etc.. We are getting wider and wider sidewalks around here. A mini skid-loader would be nice sometimes and we rent one, borrow one or have a friend that has one do some work sometimes for us. We have sand, etc. stockpiled on site for some larger customers as they request. We also deliver bag materials to some who do their own and have no way to store large amounts, or have no way to haul it as a service to our customers. If we don't feel we can do a good timely job for the customer, we don't take on the job. We also stay in touch with every customer early on before and during the plow season, allowing them their input, and make changes if they prefer. We must be doing something right.
  6. Cover Guy

    Cover Guy Senior Member
    Messages: 224

    I have a 10' boss the price for them is cheap but I wish I'd just spent the extra money and bought another Arctic the biggest problem with the boss is when it gets filled with snow it starts to raise so your no longer scraping where the Arctic wings start to raise but it still scrapes
  7. bb1069

    bb1069 Junior Member
    from Kansas
    Messages: 12

    Though in very heavy snow, in some situations, a snow box may not be as good as a blade especially a blade the has movable wings, but you can get a box-plow combo like the KAGE models that are a plow and a box all in one, but you will have to pay for it. A plow wing wing tips works very well too. The boxes usually come with rubber bits that are safer for pavement and normal slight obstructions. but don't do well for stuck down hard packed or cutting any ice. If you do driveways up against houses or doors or something, you will definitely want a back drag blade on it. IF you have a rubber tire machine, put on snow wolf tires and wheels or if you run 12 x 16.5 tires on it now, you can go and have 6" wide rims made for about 109.00 ea and put 7.50 x 16" Power King-super traction II bias ply bi-directional mud and snow tires or the super traction premiums directionals on them yourself and even get the 2 back ones studded or all depending on what you run on and you will be amazed at what a skid loader can push. I found them out the door price for 115.00 for sp-2's and 128.00 ea for the premiums from a local small dealer. Yours will be probably slightly higher. Great tires. You can also run a LT235-85/16 tire on a 8" 8 hole implement rim that will fit.Personally Most of us around here that have 1845c's, 236,246 Cats, run a 8' box on rubber tire machines for one reason or another w/ the standard 12 x 16.5 skid-loader tires, but the 750 x 16" 10 ply tire setup is the cat's meow and can push a 10' box much better. Make sure of your center offset on the wheels and you can even bump the tire pressure up some to 90-95 lbs if you wish and they will work fine. You can also run screw in carbide tip inserts in you regular skid loader tires giving you amazing traction as well and screw them back out in the spring for next year, and they will last 4 or more years, that is if you don't have many concerns on the pavement. Some run these in the back tires only that are doing most of the pushing allowing you to slide the fronts around. Works fine. These tire sizes are very close to the height of the original 12 x 16.5's usually run on most skid loader and also can be used w/wheel kit, to replace the 10 x 16.5 as well.
  8. Grassman09

    Grassman09 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,808

    Would you consider this allot of snow? I do not think I've experienced that you are saying. Just need to find the sweet spot and leave it alone just raise the arms and leave the bucket alone.

    I was able to scrape up what I ran over with the hoe several times wasn't a problem for the BX.

    Last edited: Jan 1, 2014