sides are bent
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We use farmer lodgic, when in doubt...get a bigger hammer!!toyman;460250 said:
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I agree with jon
I understand what you're saying about bending the arms, but I hardly hit the curb. I guess I will try bending it back this season and rework the useless brace that they put on in the spring/summer. I like the way brace looks on the new scrapers, it can easily be fabricated and the blade needs a coat of paint anyway.
The main reason for wanting it straightened (to me) is the shoes on it are not running true anymore. I just put them on this year and went with the superduty ones, those are not cheap.
Has anyone ever run the extra long shoes, do they work better? It looks like the box would level out easier.
Toyman
The main reason for wanting it straightened (to me) is the shoes on it are not running true anymore. I just put them on this year and went with the superduty ones, those are not cheap.
Has anyone ever run the extra long shoes, do they work better? It looks like the box would level out easier.
Toyman
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We've bent a few of ours and moved the braces to a lower point and used round tube instead of square tube. Haven't had any problems anymore.
Little Jon has a very valid point that we thought hard about before making the change.
As for the shoes, we have our local fabricator make up new ones, much cheaper than ProTech's. Unfortunately, he's a little anal and won't tell me what steel he uses.
Not like I'm going to start making them myself, he does almost all my work. 
Little Jon has a very valid point that we thought hard about before making the change.
As for the shoes, we have our local fabricator make up new ones, much cheaper than ProTech's. Unfortunately, he's a little anal and won't tell me what steel he uses.
Not like I'm going to start making them myself, he does almost all my work.
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Well, if you baraly hit the curb, then Id say definatly rebrace it. As long as the box continues to be the weakest link you should be fine.
you need to have a weak link somewhere in the system. I choose to use a small 3/8 clevis to hold my chains to the pusher. Now if I hit something I know that clevis will break and not bend the sides. Keep a few spares in the cab if you are rough with the blade. As with any machine something needs to be a consumable. Pick something cheap and you will surprised how much more money is in your pocket at end of season.
The clevis would work for backing and hitting something, but if it is travelling forward and you hit a curb (hidden by the fallen snow) something is going to give. I have loosend the chains on the bucket so the pusher will slide around a bit, seemed to work better over this last push. I should also mention that I have an older pusher, it just has the side brace in the middle of the blade going to the middle of the side, if you look at the new pushers they have a large triangle shaped wedge that transfers from the lowest leading edge of the wing to the blade. It is obviously a huge improvment to keep the side from bending (I will build these over the summer for next year). To finish out this year I am just going to try to staighten the sides.
Toyman
Toyman
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We just fixed a pusher with bent sides with a D3 and a 320 Track hoe. It was funny! Are other choice was a D6 and a D3. It was a last minute deal and it was a homemade pusher. It is not to out of wack now. The guy that built it forgot to put braces on the wing to the blade so it was not a big deal but funny a $250,000 hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Best hammers out there are the ones that cost over a 100k!!payuppayupwesportwesportMike S;519610 said:
Mark, who is it that you use over there to make your shoes, I'm only an hour away. In fact I have to go to Grandville to get ProTech shoes anyway! Please share the number with me.Mark Oomkes;461266 said:As for the shoes, we have our local fabricator make up new ones, much cheaper than ProTech's. Unfortunately, he's a little anal and won't tell me what steel he uses.
Toyman
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Ebling & Sons Blacksmithtoyman;563639 said:
616-532-8400
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It would be safe to say they probably use hardox for the steel, it's tough stuff. If you use regular mild steel they won't last long unless you hardface whatever contacts the ground.
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I did a set of shoes for a customer last winter i used all AR400 steel.:waving:
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I don't know how or where your box is bent at...... but here is what I did to my 8'2" boss this last weekend. Well, first off the right wing was tweeked pretty bad and I'm guessing it's from somebody blasting a curb, which in turn cracked the brace on the rear outer edge that supports the radius of the plow, which in turn was wearing the cutting edge out to almost a curve. So I took the the cutting edge off and hogged out a couple of the holes that hold on the cutting edge and screwed in a couple of 3/4" eyelets, using a grade 80 trucking chain and a couple of chain binders, pulled the plow up to a solid object and hooked the chain through one eyelet at a time and pulled and pulled until the blade was straight again. Then I welded in a new brace and releaced the chain binders and installed new cutting edges. And I did use a BFH.toyman;460250 said:
To fix the bent the side plates , i would warm them with a torch and something to push or pull on to straighten them. For the shoe's , save the old cutting edge's for your truck plows and weld them to the bottom of the feet. When them wear out just weld on new ones. A twenty min fix for the shoes.
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the entended shoes are not all that they're hyped up to be.toyman;461260 said:
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