Cant say without seeing the truck, i havent worked on a 98 model yet, but my friend has a 92 Chevy 2500 4x4 and his front rotors are bolted on from behind the rotor with 4 bolts, where the CV axle slips in. Yours might be the same way but who knows, they change things so often, you get used to doing it a certain way and they change it on you. Mike
Cool so they didnt change it. My 92 Chevy 1500, the rotors just slip off, not pressed or bolted, I like that design. Now getting back to his truck, if I remember correctly, its been a while since I did my friends truck, when we unbolted them, the rotor came off as an assembly with another big part and they had to be brought over to the machine shop to have the old rotors pressed off and the new rotors pressd on, then they give them a LIGHT cut and we get them back and bolt them up. Take the truck for a ride and hope and pray they dont pulsate, LOL, or its back on the lift for round 2! Mike
Take the wheel off, cut the wheel all the way to one side so that you can access the caliper bolts. Unbolt the caliper and hang the caliper out of the way and look behind the rotor. You will see 4 bolts going into the rotor through the back and they are all in a perfect square. Those are the 4 bolts. Their pretty big too and their gonna be real tight, atleast my friends were. Mike
OK I looked and there are four bolts that have 15mm heads on them that go through the cast iron plate vthat holds the caliper. Are these the right ones? I don't see any others. Thanks for all your help.
Yea that has to be them. Do the 4 of them form a perfect square? Couple inches apart from each other? By the way, your very welcome for the help, im glad to help when i feel i know something about the topic. Mike
Again really appreciate help. Got the rotors off!
Here are the steps for those encountering this in the future:
1)unbolt caliper and swing up out of way.
2)remove axel nut 36mm
3)remove four bolts w/ 15mm heads that retain hub from the back
4)remove ABS wire. I removed from clips on A arm and disconnect at connector on frame
5)spray area of separation w/ Liquid Wrench. Also spray wheel studs for easier removal in step 6
6)tap back of rotor w/ hammer to free up and then tap from other side to get mating flange to separate. Do this several times. Then grasping caliper w/ hands should be able to wiggle back and forth and walk off. Lay assembly on floor
6)remove wheel studs. I used large hammer on a small hammer on the studs. Did not damage threads.
Hey, Im glad you got them off and your all set now. Just curious as to why you look the studs out? Did you have a broken stud you were replacing?, or is that how you separate the rotor from the whole assembly? When I did my friends, I just brought the whole assembly to the local parts store machine shop and they took them apart and put them back together with the new rotor and gave the new rotor a light cut. I wasnt there when they did that part so I dont know how they go about it. Mike
I know when I did mine i had to take them out but we reused them in the new one.But the quality job and products that GM gave me origenial was bad had to repalce both rotors,calpers and some one had moved the squeel indicator on the brakes to I pretty much destroied the whole thing.The only good thing is the parts cost me about $100 or so.And make sure you do use the never size on them,unlike Gm making sure that they would never come off again when they put them on.