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Regearing F250

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by DeereFarmer, Mar 28, 2007.

  1. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    My F250 has a 3.73 gear ratio. It's OK, but I can do better. When I get bigger tires I don't want it to be a dog. I'm thinking of regearing to atleast 4.30s. I think both the front and rear have to be done, right? I don't think this is something that I want to attempt to do myself. I've heard that it can cost like $2000 to regear a truck. Is that true? If it is I might just stick with the 3.73s for now.:cry:
  2. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Regearing isn't that tuff. You should have a good torque wrench and some measuring tools to measure backlash and stuff. You could save some of the labor by removing the diffs yourself and then taking them to a shop to be done.

    Prices for DANA axle gear as well as Toyotas and others have actually become pretty reasonable. Another note is that you can also order a lot of drop in type setups now that are aimed at the driveway mechanic.

    What size tires are you going to? I would advise stopping in a local truck 4x4 type shop, they should be able to help you figure out what you need.
  3. chrisd

    chrisd Member
    from buffalo
    Messages: 33

    You May Want To Add A Auxiallry Gas Tank Also.

    My Brother Had Ordered A V-10 With A Locking Diff And It Came With 4.30 Gears. He Put 285's On It And Got About 8-10 Miles To The Gallon And That Is Not Plowing Or Towing Anything. Plowing Was Worse, But The Truck Was Quick Off The Start.
  4. dodgeguy99

    dodgeguy99 Senior Member
    from mn
    Messages: 272

    i would put the bigger tires on and then see how it performed becuase the gearing is directly realted to your gas mileage. if your only going to 33's i dont think you will need to regear.
  5. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    I'm pretty sure I'm not going with anything bigger than 35s and I do a good amount of towing, but just around town. My local 4x4 place said that I should be fine with the 3.73s, but I don't really believe them. I need to find a better shop. I don't mind the gas mileage. It's a truck.
  6. Mark Oomkes

    Mark Oomkes PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,236

    You may only have to go with 4.10's. But if you're plowing and towing regularly, you're going to create a lot more stress on the tranny that will be relieved by changing out the gears.

    Check on FTE, there's some extremely knowledgeable guys over there that can help with installation as well as where to get them reasonably. They'd more than likely be able to help out with what you need too.
  7. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    I'm over there too.:nod:
  8. 06HD BOSS

    06HD BOSS 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,611

    Funny you brought this up, because last night i was just thinking about how i rather have the 3.73s in my truck. About 60% of my driving is highway and the 4.10s arent the best. Not that this helps your situation any lol
  9. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    If you are mostly around town and plowing & towing a lot, your tranny will thank you for the gear change.

    I know that Ford Dealerships here look at the tires first thing whenever there is a drivetrain warranty. If the tires are not within a range then you run into problems.

    I always thought it was best to keep a work truck as close to stock as possible in terms of suspension and tires for that reason.
  10. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    The dealer said it would be no problem warranty wise. They said it will only void the changed out parts. If they install the lift they will warranty that as well (I love my dealer). I'm pretty sure I just landed a job that is a 50 mile round trip drive a day, so now I'm reconsidering. It's only money anyway. I'd rather be really happy and poor than rich with a stock truck.
  11. Mark Oomkes

    Mark Oomkes PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,236

    You've probably read some of the threads on RPM's vs engine load and how higher RPM's do not automatically mean you will be getting lower mileage.

    It's beyond me how to explain it in a way that makes sense, but I understand the concept somewhat. Never thought of it that way before.
  12. winged1dur

    winged1dur Senior Member
    Messages: 124

    The best way I can explain it Mark is to think back to when we rode bikes. If you have a 10 speed but only gears 4-10 work your legs will be very sore if you do stop and go riding (city). When you finally get out on an open country road in 10th gear you are flying along with little effort(highway). This is the 3.55,3.73 rear end.
    Now take the same bike with gears 1-7, you drive around town with little effort but can't "fly"on open country roads without gears 8,9, and 10. If you are hauling a load, in my case a newspaper route, this is the setup you want. This is the 4.10, 4.30 rear end.
    The bottom line is chose the ratio which suits the style of driving you do most.
  13. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    winged1dur: great explanation. So here's my thing. I drive on the highway a lot. I go to NH almost every weekend during the summer. I do a little around town. I tow my dump trailer about 10 miles around town every week or two. I would want to be able to haul 6K lbs. on the highway without worrying about blowing up the tranny. I'm just right in the midde of either spectrum!
  14. M&M Services

    M&M Services Senior Member
    from midwest
    Messages: 501

    I would say you are not going to need to change the gears...but that is just me. I also dont mind fuel mileage as evident in the lift and 35s!! xysport get those wheels on there already :drinkup: LOL
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    FTO, what is the actual tire size on your truck now? Not the size on the sidewall but the actual measured height?
  16. AbsoluteH&L

    AbsoluteH&L Senior Member
    Messages: 573

    As long as you stay under a 35", as you said you planned, I think you should be fine. I have run as big as 31's on my Jeep and stock is only a 225 75 15. No gear changes and I can still pull my trailer fairly well.
  17. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    The tires I have on there now are 31s. I found out today that I have to stay with a max lift of 4.5" and 35" tires. The state law won't allow me to go any bigger with my truck. If I do I can't get inspected. So that would give me an overall height increase of 6.5". I took out a tape measure and measured certain aprts of the truck and what it would be like 6.5" taller and found that the lift and 35s will be high enough, I guess.
  18. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Since most tires are actually shorter than the size marked on the sidewall, your 31's are probably about 30" tall approximately, and if you go up to 35's I'd expect them to be about 33.5 or 34 in tall (depending on brand). That's a difference of only 2" in radius which would be fine with 3:73's. I don't think you'd like it with the 4:30's anyhow but if money wasn't an issue, I'd switch to 4:10's even though it's a small change to justify the expense of re gearing.
  19. BOSS550

    BOSS550 Senior Member
    Messages: 212

    Definitely check with the shop that's going to do the work-- BEFORe you tear anything apart if you decide to regear. Many guys would rather have the rear in the truck so they could move it around. Those Dana and Sterling rears are heavy and awkward to position. If it were mine I think I'd run it first and see how your 3.73 work but I think 4.10 may be the way to go. I did the same swap years ago and never regretted it. Good luck!
  20. DeereFarmer

    DeereFarmer PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,296

    Thanks for all the opinions. I'll run the 3.73 and see how they feel.