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Recovery/Tow strap ????

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Sno4U, Mar 8, 2009.

  1. Sno4U

    Sno4U Senior Member
    Messages: 480

    I'm tired of the old rusty chain laying in the back of my truck and want to get a Nylon recovery/tow strap.
    My biggest truck is my Dodge and when fully outfitted/loaded runs around 12,000 lbs.
    Getting kind of confused as to how large/capacity strap I should buy. A 6" strap says its good for 36,000 lbs but has working load of 1/3 of that (which is where I need to be). I would probably need to use the strap as a "jerk strap" b/c a smaller/lighter vehicle will be pulling me out.:redbounce
    So, do I get the bigger strap or just go w/ one rated close to my 12,000 lbs?
  2. Burkartsplow

    Burkartsplow PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,246

    Just dont get stuck and you wont need a strap. But going bigger is always better when it comes to tow straps. They are made for towing but when you start jerking on them then that is when they break and come flying back at you.
  3. CGM Inc.

    CGM Inc. PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,598

    ...you can also help others! That is why I have a strap in my truck!
  4. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,604

  5. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    Tow straps and recovery straps are completely different things. Tow straps are made for towing, not recovery unless it's just a direct pull. Recovery straps are slightly elastic to absorb the jerking motion.
  6. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    You're going to want a Recovery Strap for what you're going to be doing with it. Go by the Working Load Limit (WLL) which is stamped on it. Going cheap will get you or some else seriously injured or killed. They do cost some coin (actually bills), but this is one time you really do get what you pay for.

    Just a piece of advice - ALWAYS roll your strap up and store it behind the seat. Don't just throw it in the bed, figuring you'll "do it later".
  7. tuney443

    tuney443 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,847

    I'll keep all my rusty chains wherever they lay any day over any kind of strap.
  8. Sno4U

    Sno4U Senior Member
    Messages: 480

    Why? from what I understand, U can use a strap to sort of jerk the stuck vehicle out, u can multiply the weight of the recovery vehicle in your favor without breaking anything. Chains snap too (been there, done that). Chains get rusty, are cumbersome to drag out of the cab and have no "give" to them.
    Thats why I'm interested in a strap. Educate me otherwise:confused:
  9. Sno4U

    Sno4U Senior Member
    Messages: 480

    I went to the zip site. What is "basket capacity" ?
  10. Dustball

    Dustball Senior Member
    Messages: 274

  11. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    You quoted me, but I didn't say anything about "basket capacity". Generally, in this type context, "basket capacity" would refer to the construction field where lifting is similar in stress to towing ( only straight up) where the stress is applied in an even pull rather than being "jerky" like you have with pulling cars/trucks out of mud/snow or out of a ditch.

    I'd never heard the term "basket capacity" used in towing or recovery.

    edit - I'll have to correct myself. I just saw the term "basket WLL" in an for recovery equipment. "Basket WLL" vs "Vertical WLL". That should be self-explanatory.
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2009
  12. unit28

    unit28 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,634

    It's what they will haul your dead ass home in if you snap a chain/rope and it zings you to the other side to visit the flying spaghetti monster.


    visit this for some good recovery info.
  13. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    LOL, awesome I'm an ordained Pastafarian.
  14. tuney443

    tuney443 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,847

    When I pull,whether it's truck to truck,truck to bulldozer,dump truck to backhoe,there most definitely is no ''jerk'' involved.That's kid stuff,dangerous,and plain stupid.I simply get the chain tight and pull evenly,that's it.Yes,of course it can snap,but at least you're not going to hurt a truck or whatever by jerking back and forth.If it doesn't move,go to plan B.Did you ever see a crane trying to lift something it couldn't and then try ''jerking'' the load to try and lift it? I would hope not,same principle applies.And rust doesn't really bother me on a chain,that's what gloves are for.
  15. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Agreed- never jerk a struck vehicle something will break, the truck or the strap.
    I'll keepo the chains too. Tried straps- sand/grit kills them quick and it's tough to keep them clean and grit free in the sandy, salty snow (salt is grit too) and off road in mud. My chains are not rusty at all, they've been stored in the bed tool box for 10 years and counting. Just dropping them in the bed is how they get rusty.
    They don't give, there no elastic recoil and there's no concern if they're covered in mud, snow, sand or what have you. They also don't usually fail unexpectedly without warning.
  16. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    Also, calculate "resistance" into account and add to the vehicle weight when selecting WLL. Resistance - for example, is the force required to pull the truck through the mud it's stuck in. I forget how to calculate resistance - it's been years since I learned. Maybe someone else can help with that?
  17. Dustball

    Dustball Senior Member
    Messages: 274

    I was just out four wheeling yesterday at a local event. With all the ice and snow that was on the trails, there was no way you were going to pull anyone with a stationary start- nowhere enough traction to do that. Straps were a must and momentum was necessary. You cannot recover safely using chains in those type of situations. It's either getting a moving start with a strap or winching.
  18. zabMasonry

    zabMasonry Senior Member
    from vt
    Messages: 101

    when using a properly sized strap, and some ropes (though not all). you should actually "jerk"

    Because a strap is like a giant spring, as you pull on it, it starts to store energy, this means that it can actually apply much much more force to the stuck vehicle then the pulling vehicle provides on its own. Jerking works really well in these situations, and the stretching of the strap should keep breaking things to a minimum. This is not to say that you can't apply the same force by just gently applying power, but in most situations its hard to provide anywhere near the same amount of energy by just pulling then jerking.


    and never do this with chain's that's just stupid. BTW with longer lengths of cable the same holds true about the stretch
  19. PTSolutions

    PTSolutions PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,537

    cables are a bad idea for pulling someone out if your jerking. your right about cables stretching, this is storing energy, but when it snaps, watch out! you could take someones head off. Why do you think alot of winch manufacturers are moving toward synthetic rope. they store no energy so when they break they dont fly back or anything.
  20. Dustball

    Dustball Senior Member
    Messages: 274

    Also more importantly, proper strong tow points on both the puller and stuck truck.