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Reconmended alternator/battery setup?

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by cheesycoolguy, Jan 18, 2007.

  1. cheesycoolguy

    cheesycoolguy Junior Member
    Messages: 9

    I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma with 6'9" fisher LD. I have a 70 amp alternator and a 840 cold cranking amp battery. The electric over hydraulic pump(insta-act) dims all my lights when used and if I screw around too much at any given time I can cut out the stereo and make the battery light come on. What part of my charging system do I need to upgrade, a bigger battery or a bigger alternator?
  2. Al DeMaio

    Al DeMaio Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    You want to upgrade the alternator. Ideally if you can get one between 125-135 AMP

    Be careful for mounting
  3. 1lowGMC

    1lowGMC Member
    Messages: 70

    Deffinetly a new alternator, high amp. 130 amp should work nice. I would also consider a dual bettery setup. And as always upgrade your charging systems wiring with THE BIG 3 upgrade. If you don't know about The Big 3 upgrade, see the below thread link. Look toward the bottom of the page. I talk about the big 3 upgrade.

    I do the big 3 upgrade on all my vehicles, as the stock wiring is weak at best for what we put it through.
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2007
  4. Rowski

    Rowski Senior Member
    Messages: 129

    Keep it simple...

    Before I would replace anything I would check the system out. Yes a bigger battery, bigger alternator, modified wiring, etc. are great upgrades but you may not need them if you are just doing a few drives.

    I would check the following in the order shown.

    Check the basic stuff, tight belt, poor connections, etc.

    Check battery with tester, load volts should be 9.8v or better at half the rated CCA. Should have a battery with at least 500 CCA.

    Check charging system output for voltage and amperage under load. Volts hould be around 14 to 14.5 volts. Alternator under full load should produce its rated voltage. Check diode pattern.

    Voltage drop all the connections (positive and negative) at battery, alternator, plow solenoid, plow connections, plow pump. Voltage drop not resistance.

    Check current draw at motor, should be what Fisher specs say, if memory serves about 150 amps.

    If you have connection problems, plow motor problems, none of the upgrades will really help. They will mask a problem untill it gets worse.