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Question for smooreman on saltdogg controller

10K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  kirkmue 
#1 ·
Hey Scott can you email me at sno-n-gro@live.com about a 3011864 controller. Did install yesterday, unit lights up , no bad codes ,blast works on start up and when blast button is hit but variable speed doesn't work. Can not get motor to stay running and 1-8 never light up only 9 on start or when hitting blast. Thanks John
 
#2 ·
Sounds like there's something wrong, and it won't be serviceable. Contact your dealer about warranty. Sounds like something is wrong with the knob possibly (basically a potentiometer) and it's not giving the right signal to the processor/power transistor.
 
#3 ·
Hey Scott I'm getting a code L on the controller now. Low voltage I believe. Thinking I hooked something up wrong. Noticed in insructions not to exceed 5 amps then L means lower than 10 amps what should I hook power up to. Have it running into fuse box on a 5 amp fuse. THANKS JOHN B
 
#4 ·
If it's show low voltage it's not current, it's voltage that's the problem, and the issue is on the main power cables - not the ignition feed. Your battery cable need to go straight to the battery, and make sure you clean the terminals. A little bit of corrosion can go a long way. Ground needs to be checked as well. Voltage works on both sides (power and ground).

It could be you've got a bad cell in the battery or a charging system issue. Low voltage kills motors, controllers, everything...
 
#5 ·
Ive come to realize that the controllers, even the updated ones with fuses in line outiside of them will damage themselves when there is any short/issues with the spinner circuit. We had one working fine, then not, so changed controller, it didnt work either.

We then traced back multiple abrasions/splits in the line, most in the spinner lines only, and replaced the wire. After it still didnt spin, installed a new controller and works now. So it blew the original controller and a new controller we had as a "backup". Now another one of our trucks is giving the "P" for the spinner code 40% of the time.
 
#7 ·
I assume the auger speed number is flashing during this.

That indicates that the spreader is reading overcurrent (overload). Does the auger turn "freely" by hand? By that I mean can you turn it with a wrench fairly easily? A mechanical issue (rusty bearing, bent auger) can cause an overload.

As always, check all connections, maybe get a little bit of sandpaper on the terminals to clean off any corrosion.

One way or another, you're drawing too much current to the auger motor so that it thinks it's overloaded.
 
#9 ·
TGSUVPROA - question for smoorman

Smoorman,

After my new spreader worked fine for a handful of events, my controller reads F and will not work. I spoke to a saltdogg tech on the phone and he said to make sure the primary battery is hooked up to the spreader, which I did (switched from using my second battery). Still nothing. He told me to disregard the instructions - about there being a positive wire short and the internal fuse being blown. That sound right? Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
#11 ·
kirkmue;1702267 said:
Smoorman,

After my new spreader worked fine for a handful of events, my controller reads F and will not work. I spoke to a saltdogg tech on the phone and he said to make sure the primary battery is hooked up to the spreader, which I did (switched from using my second battery). Still nothing. He told me to disregard the instructions - about there being a positive wire short and the internal fuse being blown. That sound right? Any suggestions?

Thanks!
If the solid F was preceded by the speed readout flashing, then it is indicating an overload. Frozen material, jammed auger, etc. The primary battery, clean lugs, etc. are all good places to look.

If the solid F doesn't go away (even with controller reset) than it is likely the harness got pinched/damaged and shorted to the truck frame. The internal fuse may have blown.

In either case the cause should be pretty easy to find. If it is not, your dealer may have to look at it to see if something else is going on.

Sorry for the delay in answering - Happy New Year!
 
#12 ·
kshamper114;1703734 said:
Any help on a controller that will not light up? I have hooked it to the battery and tested the wires. There is voltage going into the controller but will not light up
Does this controller have the "ignition enable" wire? There is a smaller wire that should go to an ignition switched power source. If there is no power at that wire, the controller will not turn on.
 
#13 ·
smoorman;1704537 said:
If the solid F was preceded by the speed readout flashing, then it is indicating an overload. Frozen material, jammed auger, etc. The primary battery, clean lugs, etc. are all good places to look.

If the solid F doesn't go away (even with controller reset) than it is likely the harness got pinched/damaged and shorted to the truck frame. The internal fuse may have blown.

In either case the cause should be pretty easy to find. If it is not, your dealer may have to look at it to see if something else is going on.

Sorry for the delay in answering - Happy New Year!
No worries. Thank you! It is a solid F. It displays a number for a couple seconds then goes to the F and does not go away. Yes, the wire was burned on the exhaust, too much slack I was unaware of.

I fixed the wire, how do I replace the internal fuse? Still reading F.

Thanks again, Happy New Year as well!
 
#14 ·
I'm glad you found the issue. Harnesses getting melted by exhaust systems is not that uncommon, and it can be a pain to find (unless you've got a lift).

Remove the cover from the controller and inspect the fuses - they are automotive fuses - so you'll be able to see the blown one and replace it fairly easily.
 
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