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Pulling a trailer with salter on?

Discussion in 'Ice Management' started by IDEALGREEN, Dec 20, 2003.


    from USA
    Messages: 37

    Hi Everyone,

    Anyone have some ideas or websites I can check out on finding a hitch setup which can be used for salting AND towing my small trailer?
    My current setup is a Receiver mount salter (300 lbs.) and just bought a new 04 Rubicon w/plow. I need to be able to tow this unit around and be able to just take the trailer off at the job site while I plow with my truck.
    I thought I saw a double mount receiver on the net some time back but haven't found it again.

    Any help greatly appreciated!
  2. TreffertLawnWrx

    TreffertLawnWrx Senior Member
    Messages: 122

    1. Possibly get a swing away kit for your salter and put the ATV in the back of your truck?

    2. Sell truck unit and get a salter for your ATV.

    GO PACKERS!!!!!!!!!
  3. landman

    landman Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 185

    Try a place thet sells RV supplies. They are usually sold at places like that because people have a bike carrier mounted in the top one and use the bottom one to trailer a car or something like that. my neighbor has one on his camper thats how I know.
  4. Greensway

    Greensway Member
    Messages: 97

    I had a guy plow for me years ago that pulled a quad w/blade on his trailer.
    He had a setup that he made himself for this.
    He cut a receiver & welded a dropdown one to the end with a ball on it, pulled a 6x10 trailer.
    Just made sure when he got to a property that he got the quad off 1st. then unhooked the trailer plowed, salted et.

    It was something like this

    trailerhitch (small).jpg
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2003
  5. GripTruk

    GripTruk Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    I'm confused...
    WHAT are you towing around?
    the rubicon? but you have a plow on both trucks?
    I don't really understand what you are trying to accomplish here.

  6. andycanoes2

    andycanoes2 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    Hi, i'm a newbie posting but here goes.... Northern tool (notherntool.com) sell a double hitch reciever for about 50$usd. I'm not sure if it will have the weight capacity you are looking for but it hauls a bike rack with four bikes and a 1200 lb boat fine.

    Great site!

    from USA
    Messages: 37

    Problem Solved - Thank You.....

    Hay Everyone,

    Lots of great ideas from everyone!
    I've went to hitchfinder.com and purchased a 4" HI/LOW receiver. I then purchased another receiver which will be welded onto the 4" HI/LOW. With the HI/LOW reversed so it's in the HIGH position, the other receiver will be welded at the bottom. Now my salter will sit above the trailer hitch at all times.

    Trk. Rec.-----/

    When I get it completed and a day when it's all hooked up, I'll post a pic for everyone!

    Thanks everyone! :waving:

    Rich D.
  8. elite1

    elite1 Senior Member
    Messages: 187

    I'm Sure that you are aware, but

    A class 3 hitch is only good for 500 lbs of tongue weight.
    a class 4 hitch is good for 800 or 1000 ?? I think
    class 5 ??? 1,2000

    I will not ever try that, I don't care how light the trailer. The farther away the spreader and trailer (weight) from the factory hitch, the more pressure (tongue weight ) is on the hitch.

    I have a class 5 and I will not even put spare tires in the front of my trailer a frames(for more than this 1 reason).

    Spreader = 50lbs, salt 300lbs which is not a lot.= 350 lbs plus a trailer = maybe 150 lbs loaded if it is light. And that's not accounting for the extended hitch.

    my opinion, Some thing to keep in mind.
  9. GripTruk

    GripTruk Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    wait, are you saying you won't do this for weight purposes? Obviously you sound like you know what you are doing, so you would know you want the weight biased towards the front to avoid swaying, so I am a little confused as to the spare tire comment.

  10. Plow Meister

    Plow Meister PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,174

    1. The more weight you put on the hitch, the less weight you are taking off the front wheels. With a Jeep it would be a big issue but not with the blade out front.

    2. The trailer hitch is only rated for 500#'s. After you put 400#'s of spreader and salt on it you want to pull a trailer with another 100 to 200#'s of tongue weight on it. With an extended reciever hitch, that extra 100 or 200#'s of weight is multiplied for every inch the ball is away from the truck. Kind of like holding your arm out horizontally and placing a 5 pound weight on your elbow. Now, place that same 5 pound weight in the palm of your hand. Same weight but it SEEMS heavier in the palm of your hand because it is farther away from your body. The same goes for your trailer hitch. You can effectively DOUBLE the tongue weight by making your hitch just 8" longer. Now, you will be effectively carrying the 400 pounds of salt & spreader AND another 200 - 400 pounds of tongue weight. That could add up to 800 pounds on the hitch, not within the guidelines of the hitch.

    Consider this. Since the spreader only weighs 50 to 100#'s, put the spreader in the trailer and tow it to the site with all your other goodies. When you get to the site, un-hook the trailer and install the salter. Do your plowing and THEN fill it up with salt from the trailer and go spread it. More work but safer.

    from USA
    Messages: 37

    Class 4 Is What I Have

    I took my setup to a local racing shop who specialize on frame welding and engines. Other then doing some cutting of the parts I brought him, he said it should work fine.

    He's going to weld the bottom receiver for the trailer to the 4" HI/LOW unit. The salter will sit only about 1" above the tongue of the trailer, just enough for me to attach it with the lock lever up. The salter will sit about 3-4 inches farther away from the truck then it usually does.

    I would certainly not try this with a 700 lb. salter and I'm only pulling a small 1 place trailer with a 600 lb. ATV on it. I'm sure I can manage to keep the tongue weight at a min. with the placement of the ATV. Also, the salter will never have a full load of salt in it during transitions between jobs so everything should be just fine. If I pull 8-10K of trailer and equipment in the summer with 500 lbs. and sometimes more, I don't think I'll have any problems with this dinky setup.

    I will post a pic when it's completed and then keep everyone updated as to how well it works..... Successful or not....... Give a week or two and I'll get some pics up.
  12. Plow Meister

    Plow Meister PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,174

    Just don't forget, the hitch rating is only 1/2 your battle. I have been building and racing customized Jeeps for over 10 years. Your rubicon is a great Jeep. Don't get me wrong. The way the frames are made on TJ's (the frame & body stye you have) consist of a box style channel that is bent in certain places for axle humps and such. Where those bends are, the manufacturer is required to encorporate "crumple zones" in the frame. This is where they drill strategically placed holes in the frame, thus weakening the frame in that spot. You may have a class 4 hitch and it may have been installed by the dealer, but just be careful the in the way you utilize it. You COULD put a Titan class V on your Jeep. That doesn't mean the frame will hold up.

    All in all, I am sure you will be more than fine in your setup. I am just informing you of the backlash that COULD occur.

    Do us all a favor and take some pics. I would like to see it when it is done.

    from USA
    Messages: 37

    Pulling an ATV - NOT JEEP

    Hay guys,

    Not sure if your following me but I'm pulling an Honda Rubicon ATV with my Ford 03' F-250 on a single axle trailer. Not pulling a ATV with a Jeep Rubicon with a salter on the back.....:rolleyes:

    I hope my pics I put up explains it all............

    Again, thanks for all your inputs on this!

  14. elite1

    elite1 Senior Member
    Messages: 187

    I have a 24 foot race trailer. 10,000 axels, My set up is big and heavy, but it still applies to small units.

    Yes you do want to load your trailer toward the front to avoid sway. You only should load your trailer 60% front 40 % rear. Try to keep most of your weight over the axels.

    A 500 lb sitting 1 foot in front of the axel, the hitch on the trailer is about 14 feet away, so it only puts 25 # (estimated) on the tonge of the truck. Well, my trailer has a 400 lb tonge weight empty. We norrmally keep around 4000 # in it. So the tonge weight adds up very fast.

    If I put the spare tire on the frame thats like puting a dirrect 70# on the tonge. We keep them on the inside of the trailer, bolted to the wall of the axel. Helps prevent theft, and keeps them nice.

    I know all the calculations for this, I just don't feel like doing the math.

    Plow Meister explainded the extended hitch thery very, well.

    I would have a guy or 2 help with this. hook the trailer up to the hitch, and spreader with out the jeep, Every thing envolved in your set up. Put 6 bags of salt on the frame of your trailer. Use the bathroom scale set up th measure the estimated tonge weight.

    Good luck, hope it works.
  15. elite1

    elite1 Senior Member
    Messages: 187

    ok, well the truck is better, But the hitch weight my still be a probem. Why not mount the spreader higher up in the bed of the truck? I bolted a 2x8 to the bed of the truck, Mounted a receiver tube to the 2x8. No other modifications needed I could still close my tail gate. Used that because of a rear plow set-up. The spreader is farthen in towards the truck, which is good., and easier to load.
  16. Plow Meister

    Plow Meister PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,174

    Probably because it is a brand new $28,000 Jeep and not a pick-up. He probably needs what little trunk space he has for shovels and tools and repair kits.
  17. Boast Enterpris

    Boast Enterpris Senior Member
    Messages: 745

    IDEALGREEN, I'm with you. I have a Western 1000 spreader set up with a receiver mount. All I did was weld 1 1/4"diameter 3/8" wall square tubing about 13" long to the Western mount directly in line with the piece that goes into your truck receiver and braced it with a piece a 1/2" thick X 4" wide flat iron running at an angle from the mounting plate above tubing. (I wish I had some pictures) This seems to work fine for towing my 5'X12' single axel trailer with my 400 arctic cat on it. I probably woulndn't want to pull a double axel car hauler trailer with this, but it works fine for what I do around town. Just like you said I don't transport with the spreader full. I think you are on the right track. If I can make this work with the Western that holds 600lbs then you can make it work with your spreader. If it snows again this season then I'll try to get some pictures of my equipment posted.
  18. elite1

    elite1 Senior Member
    Messages: 187

    I will have to see that set up, So is the trailer ball 13 inches away from the truck. Remember the weight multiplies the fare out you go. I am confident that my hitch would safely hold 2000 lbs, but I would be over it's limit.

    Hold a hammer on top of a nail, nothing happens. swing the hammer, the nail goes in. The same thing is happening to your hitch as you hit bumps in the road.

    It is not very fun having hitches break, I have had that happen (not my truck- bad hitch)

    Do you really want to try that when you down have the time for the break down, in a snow storm?

    I still don't think I would try that.

    from USA
    Messages: 37


    ;) Like the idea of mounting it off the back of my bed!! If this doesn't pan out, I'll seriously think about that method. The only down side of that would be drilling through my new truck to mount the setup in the bed. The tailgate would pop off easy so overall it's a pretty good idea! I wouldn't have to mess around with receivers at all.

    O'well, it's a work truck anyway....... If I have to go that route, it shall be done.

    I see your point about extending the hitch out. I should have just purchased a tailgate spreader to begin with. I'm not one to push my luck and if this setup seems cheesy, It won't stay on my truck.

    >>>>>>>---------------------------Boast Enterpris--------------------------<<<<<<<
    YES, Please post pics if you find the snow and the moment. Thanks again for all the posts, I guess the pics will tell a thousand words once we get them up.


    2003 F-250 Super FX4
    8'2" Boss Vee
    Curtis 400 lb. 2000 Fast Cast Salter
    2004 Honda Rubicon W/ Cycle Country State Plow
    AND 10,000 lbs. of Morton Rock Salt sitting in my garage! ARRRRG!
  20. elite1

    elite1 Senior Member
    Messages: 187

    The holes that I used were ones made for a dump insert, so think about that if you are going to mount it to your bed. I off-set it for that reason. But it worked better than i thought it would. The 2x8 runs 6 ft lenght wise on the bed.

    The spreader I have is tall and narrow. I can see better out of the back with the tailgate off, and also gives you access to the bed, for a snow blower. Stack the salt bags on top of the 2x8, so they stay off the bed (helps keep them Dry), You can still get all your snow blowers, hand salters out from the right side.

    leave the 2x8 in the truck bed all winter. just make sure to drill your holes in the frame, and paint them. I put all the mounting hardware on the inside of the bed, when you are done for the day, spreader off, tail gate on.