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Possible Oil Pan Issues on Dodge

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by AC2717, Aug 24, 2009.

  1. AC2717

    AC2717 Senior Member
    Messages: 690

    Hi Guys,
    I was wondering if any of you other Dodge guys have had to replace your oil pan due to rot. This would be from 2002 year models and newer?
    I am having mine looked at this thursday as it is not leaking but looks extremly poorous and if I take a heavy pot hole the vibration will loosen up what is left of the pan, I should have taken a picture of it for you
  2. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    That's what happens to New England trucks and cars (a lot anyway). All my Fords pans rusted up there. My 'Yota Camry lived 12 years of it's life in Mass and the pan looks like it's about to fall off.
  3. AC2717

    AC2717 Senior Member
    Messages: 690

    That is weird, in all my vehicles and trucks of different brands mostly 1980's years and then a coupel of 2000's years this is the only one I have had a problem with
    I wonder if they are not using harded steal or steal to make them but just tin or straight metal. I did some searchign out there and there are a lot of aftermarket ones out there made with different materials
  4. Stark_Enterprises

    Stark_Enterprises Senior Member
    Messages: 316

    I Have had to replace the oil pan on a 99 360 V8. I bought the truck in 2004 with only 24k on it thinking that i was getting a super clean lightly used truck, because the paint and interior were flawless, But if i ever looked at the engine or under carrage I would of never bought the truck. It was So roted in so many places, Simply due to the fact that the 1st owner plowed and sanded with the truck and never Cleaned the undercarrage. I had to replace the Oil pan, Starter, Fuel Rail, Calipers, rotors, and a couple other things. The headers were so rusty I don't think they would ever come off. I got rid of the truck after a year. Now when i buy a used truck i'll look underneath before ill even look for dents and scratches.
  5. AC2717

    AC2717 Senior Member
    Messages: 690

    Thank you

    Thanks for the heads up Stark,
    I turned this one into a Plower last month, looked underneath and saw a little rust on the pan but no where else, Had it on a lift, thinking was 7 years old it was natural, never pushed on it. I purchased in Feb 09 with only 54k on it. I was under there putting the mounts on when I bumped the pan with a torque wrench and a lot of rust and paint and a layer fell off it.

    Did they have to move anything to take the oil pan off? I searched the cost to pan the pan online I can get it anywhere from $75 to $120 aftermarket, really do not want a OEM replacement unless the made a better replacement. Any idea on cost to do this?? I do a lot myself but this is something I do not like to fool around with, almost like I do not want to be responsbile for something that important that could kill the engine.

    It is heading back into the dealer for a repair of something they broek when replacing another part and then when I bought it they had to replace the internal engine computer that sits on the firewall no cost to me in fact Dodge will replace that up to 80k, it lasted three months and it started setting off the check engine light again, there is absolutley nothing wrong with how the truck is running though. I coded it with my engine code reader and the internal computer is what is triggering the light

    I am having them look a the pan and possibly have it replaced but i know it would not be covered. it is e VIN with a Z in it, 5.9liter V8
  6. Stark_Enterprises

    Stark_Enterprises Senior Member
    Messages: 316

    I had a Dodge Dealer Do it and it ended up being a pain in the ass, a bunch of the bolts snapped off and the holes had to be drilled and tapped. If i remember right they had to replace the tranny cooler lines when doing this because they were so roted, and when they went to move them they started to weep. On the Cummins' I know you have to lift the engine out of the mounts to get to some bolts and slide the pan past the pick-up. I do not belive this is the case with the V8. I think back in 2005 the Stealer charged about 600 for this job.

    SKYNYRD Senior Member
    Messages: 420

    my dad had to replace the one on our 2001 ram last summer. truck didn't even have 30,000 miles on it at the time. nothing is made like it used to be that's for sure. don't help that more often than not the truck is parked on dirt though:(
  8. AC2717

    AC2717 Senior Member
    Messages: 690


    Does any have a price idea I should be looking at for the 5.9liter I am hoping that it is a drop the put a new on in scenario
  9. dellwas

    dellwas Senior Member
    Messages: 369

    Can't be as bad as having to replace the pan on a F350 7.3L diesel. Motor has to come out, flipped over (after draining fluid) and new pan put on. Ford recommends the flip so that the silicone (apparently there isn't a gasket) doesn't get affected by old engine oil. Some guys cut the cross member, replace them on the truck then weld the member back on.

    Me, I just JB'd the hell out of mine. No leaks in 4 months, we'll see what winter brings...
  10. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    you can band aid it and it will last for a long time you know. Just like the ford guys do. Get a piece of fiberglass and some JB weld and make a patch. They spray down pan with Fluid Film or something.
  11. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

    I dont think Dodges have same issue of taking pan off. Plus I dont think we have that same gasket on the pan that the Fords have. As for cutting coss memeber they cut the rivits and drop it out.
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    To remove the pan you first have to remove both engine mount bolts and loosen the fan shroud to necessitate raising the engine slightly, drop the exhaust crossover pipe, move the trans cooler lines out of the way and pull the starter. So it's approx a 4-5 hour job for oil pan R&R but only if the exhaust manifold studs cooperate. If they don't, then add a couple hours just for that.
  13. DSLL

    DSLL Senior Member
    Messages: 136

  14. AC2717

    AC2717 Senior Member
    Messages: 690

    thank you

    Wow this is great thank you, I am showing this to my mechanic to save me some money lol cheers!!!:drinkup:
  15. dellwas

    dellwas Senior Member
    Messages: 369

    Oh yea, which was what I was trying to point out, not near as bad on a Dodge, I assume. On the rivets, makes sense, either replace with new ones, or high-grade bolts, not sure where I got the idea that it was welded back on, think I read it on one of the Ford forums...

  16. fourspeedfish

    fourspeedfish Member
    Messages: 70

    I replaced the pan on my 98 5.9, and you dont have to lift the motor. The gasket is almost half the price of the pan and is 1 peice un like the older dodges. It is really not that bad of a job.