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Plow will raise instead of angle-B valve, check valve or coupler?

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by Earl W., Oct 14, 2007.

  1. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    The story continues.....

    After flushing, filling, new hoses, couplers, slick stick and motor....

    Operated switch and plow raised first and only time, seemed like a E-60 might..fast compared to my E46.

    Then angled to left and it will only raise when angled left or right and up. Up is really slow.

    Right hose has a lot of pressure on it, left hardly any.

    Haven't checked pressures yet.

    Looking at the manual and some posts here, it looks like this be the 'B' valve or a check valve problem or maybe a quick coupler problem-although they're new.

    Ran out of daylight so I will try again tommorrow evening.
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Good chance the B valve is stuck partially open. Take the valve out and push in on the button of it with a small screwdriver to try and move the spool inside the valve while spraying it with some brake clean to free it up. It's probably jammed up with trash. If you can't get it freed up, you'll need to replace it.
  3. 04sd

    04sd Senior Member
    from pa
    Messages: 266

    You can pull B & C valves apart also if you remove the small snap ring. A small snap ring pliers helps but you can also use some small screw drivers.
  4. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Got the B coil out, it had a cracked lip (about 1/4 was missing) on the end against the ball and the piston seemed stuck. Checked in the body with magnet and didn't find any fragments.

    Sprayed brake cleaner on it and removed snap ring and pryed(sp) piston apart.

    It had a few pits, sprayed it some more and re-assembled.

    Put it back together, wouldn't move in and out but would rotate with a little effort and a rag for gripping.

    Re-installed and now it won't move at all, motor tries to move it but it won't budge.

    I'll try the C tommorrow.

    Should the pistons move in and out freely? About how much travel?
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If the B valve has a 1/4" chunk missing on the bottom where the check ball in the valve block seals against the bottom, it ain't never gonna work (you did reinstall the ball and spring in the block right?). The check ball needs a good seal on the bottom of the B valve..you'll need to replace the B valve. But since you found that the spool won't hardly move anyway it's never gonna work regardless.The piston should move about an 1/8" pretty easy by pushing on it with a screwdriver

    The pump is straining to move because it's stuck to the left, which is the default position if you have a wiring or hydraulic problem with a Meyer. As a test, you can swap the angle hoses side to side..I'll bet it will then go to the right...but only once.

    Check the C coil for magnetism and see if you have it. If you do, then remove the valve and check/clean it just like you did to the B valve.
    Let us know what you find...
  6. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Got magnetism to C valve, to me it seems light but it pulls the small srew driver towards the coil just like the others.

    Got C coil out and it came apart in pieces, first the post? and piece inside it with a small tube connected by a drift pin. The remaining pieces needed a pull from needle nose pliers. The snap ring and two of the o-rings were off, the o-rings were torn and it looks like both go on the same recess.

    I wanted to make sure all of the o-ring was out. I took a pick and tried to move what looked like a piece of o-ring. However, looking down in the valve assy (PA block?), C valve port; in the back of the port, at the bottom, it appears to be a 'quarter moon' opening.

    Is this normal?

    I was thinking of using my shop vac, with small nozzel to remove any foreign material.

    Looks like I should order valves.
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Sounds like you power to the coil and the coil itself is good..
    They ain't supposed to do that! Should come out all in one piece..
    Yes, I think you seeing the fluid port where it come into the C valve cavity.

    Yep, your definity gonna need both valves and I highly recommend cleaning out the PA block very very well. To do it right, you really should pull the block off the side of the pump and disassemble all the components from the block to get it clean.
  8. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Well I'll have some time till parts come in UPS.

    So I'll take the block off while waiting. Looks pretty straight forward in the manual.

    I'll post my results... Thanks.
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Theirs 3 O-rings between the PA block and the sump base you'll need to change out when you remove the block. Did you order a seal kit so you have the necessary O-rings too? Just checking...
  10. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    It looks like the sump base and PA block only have 3 o-rings between them.

    Then I guess I need the o-rings for the crossover valve, pilot check valve, plug valve block?

    Are the o-rings standard type except for the crossover valve one w/Glyd. ring?
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    That's correct.

    Yes, you definitly want to replace any O-rings when you disassemble any components of these pump to prevent trouble's.

    The O-rings between the PA block and the base aren't nothing special and a good local hydraulic shop should have them, but the other O-rings are a little tougher to find individuality.That's why I asked if you ordered a seal kit...
  12. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    After I posted last, I realized you said 3 o-rings...

    I looked in the manual and didn't see a seal kit for this application only individual o-rings or part of the valve kit.

    Could the basic seal kit cover it or perhaps the master seal kit?
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You'll need the master seal kit...The Meyer part# you need for the kit is: 15705. A minor kit won't give you all the O-rings your gonna need. BTW, where did you order your other parts from?
  14. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Professional Parts Warehouse. Looks like the master kit is ~$20
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Sound's good Earl..let us know how you make out once you get the parts in hand...
  16. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Will do.

    This is getting expensive but is giving me a better understanding of the unit. I keep thinking just how simple the ole' e46 purplebou :) is just don't like manually angling the plow.

    Hopefully no problems when the white stuff hits and if so the recent work/lesson should pay off.

    Thanks for your help thus far.
  17. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yes these pump's can get very expensive when they need a bunch of parts but like you said yourself, this way you'll have a better understanding of the operation of it once it's all done and working. That way, you'll be able to repair it yourself if you ever need to during a storm.

    Note: Keep ahold your old E46.The PA block assembley off the E60 will bolt right on to the side of the E46...you never know when you might need it.
  18. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Yeah. I'm already thinking of ways I can switch over in a pinch. I hate to 'plan to fail' but...

    E46 on, black wire from slick stick, manual angle back on I should be good to go. Oh yeah, e46 in the semi-heated basement.

    I'll use the manual angle on the front of my open cab farm tractor (which is where it will be mounted anyway for potential 'stacking')...if the Scout gives up.

    Also, I'm going to keep my eyes open for another power angle pump or parts (PA block) as a back up. Maybe next July-August when nobody is thinking of snow.
  19. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Flushed PA block off pump and cavity on pump base. No foreign matter came out within PA block, but the pump base(?) cavity had a brown residue in it. Put new o-rings and B & C coils and valves.

    Motor works but plow will not operate.

    Checked coils and NO current to B & C.

    Recently but on new slick stick and harness.

    Checked at wiring harness/switch and no power to red or green wire.

    Checked for and had continuity of red and green wires with switch disconnected from harness.

    Checked switch posts by simulating wiring through harness connection... ign. hot and operating switch had power where it should be, including white posts working with the green and red wires.

    Even used a ground jumper wire to the solenoid base from the neg. battery terminal incase grounding was a problem. No luck.

    The only thing I can think of is that the switch is shorting out when fully connected to harness.
  20. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I've run into this before Earl. The switch terminals aren't making contact with the terminals in the harness plug when you connect the large rubber end into and over the outside of the switch. Why Meyer made the rubber plug so beefy is beyond me, but I've been able to fix them before by cutting away all the rubber that fits over the outside of the switch so they'll plug in easier. You may also need to squeeze the female pins in the rubber plug to insure a good connection too...

    Note: Their isn't any way the switch could actually "short out" internally since the switch is all 12V power...theirs no ground in the switch to short to....

    If you want to test the pump just use a jumper wire from the battery to the B coil and then also jump the underhood solenoid to power the motor... the pump shoud raise. You can do the same thing with the green wire to angle it right..