I had a look at that manual and am still lost.
what looses me is the smarthitch switch I own a plow with the original smarthitch which has 2 connectors on it the one from that manual appears to have 6?
Also in that manual it appears the most forward facing connections are where the wire harness goes and in my setup it was the most rear facing connections.
Attached it what my wires looked like with the 11pin harness
So I just got off the phone with esitrucks and I am still confused.
I dont want to place my order until I know I will be getting everything I need, the person on the other line didnt really tell me if the toggle switch kit came with the new jumper wires as well and if not didnt tell me how i would go about getting those wires.
I have attached the diagrams for both smarthitch 1 and smarthitch2 as one image(smarthitch1 diagram is in bottom right corner and i cant find a better diagram of it)
As you can see there is a lot more wiring in the smarthitch2 as opposed to the smarthitch1, The switch has I believe 6 connectors instead of the two that I currently have. Also the new wiring harness has 2 new wires(brown and white/black) which wasn’t with the old harness. Also with the old setup there is 2 jumper wires on that connects to both the orange and black valves to the switch and one that connects to the white to the switch.
With the new setup there is many more jumper wires and that is what I am after as well as the switch itself. The orange and black valves now have their own jumper wires, the new brown wire has a jumper wire to everything and the ground, etc.
So basically I want to know how I can make the new harness work with my old plow whether I need to buy smarthitch2 switch and new wires or just figure out where the new wires goto on the old switch.
My current configuration:
2001 Boss V Plow with smarthitch1
New smart light setup
New 2008+ wiring harness
I think the kit you need is MSC04744 rev 3, this is the most up to date version of the Smarthitch switch and wiring. I just picked one of these up and it does come with the switch, wiring and a new sticker with the most current wiring diagram. You should also get ground harness MSC08850 (the newest version with a diode). From your picture your plow has the chassis grounded solenoids, this will update your plow to a common ground harness and allow you to hook up the wiring exactly as in the Boss diagram you posted. To do this you will need to remove the solenoids and remove the current ground jumpers. The new harness will plug directly to the ground of each solenoid. The brown wire you see is coming from the headlights. Everything now comes to one ground and is attached to the black cable at the pump motor, this eliminates any ground loops and should prevent arcing at the mount by sending everyting back to the truck battery for grounding. Older plows had the lights grounded to the mounting/housing inside the light housing, and the solenoids were chassis grounded with a jumper as seen in your picture. The white/black wire is the trigger wire for the pump and gets attached to the smart hitch2 switch, this runs the pump when powering the lightbar into place.
I'm doing the ground and Smart Hitch2 upgrades to my plow right now (2003 vintage). After two dealers were unable to solve intermittent smart hitch2 and wing function issues, I contacted Boss direct. The technical guy said replace these items. Hopefully by the end of this weekend I'll have mine set up and could take some pictures, but I think once you get your hands on these two harnesses things will start to make better sense.
Sounds great, thanks for the info that is what I was looking for. I will hold off till monday to order the parts since I dont want to order now and forget something and have to pay for shipping and brokerage fees again.. Wish ESI would ship US Post heh.
One little tip I will add though while you're in there. Run a 4 gage ground lead from the neg screw on the motor to the light tower. Simply drill a hole in the pump mounting shelf and attach the lead there. And if you ever need to replace the motor be sure to upgrade to the current double stud design. Saves grounding issues later.
What's the advantage of the additional ground if everything goes to the screw on the motor?? I have mine far enough apart I'll upgrade mine too, Boss says that grounding is the source of all my issues.
The extra ground solves a long time Boss issue of the motor searching for ground through the light tower back to the truck when the grill connectors isn't in perfect condition, since the ground is only attached to the motor housing not directly to the motor internals. Same reason they went to a two stud motor a few years ago.
It's the same exact switch but that specific p/n is the whole "kit" which also includes a few more items with the switch that you don't need. If you want just the switch from ESI then have a look here: MSC01889