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plow conversion to pusher (not wings!)

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by xtreem3d, Jan 3, 2008.

  1. xtreem3d

    xtreem3d PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,548

  2. MileHigh

    MileHigh PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,827

    Wow..that thing looks pretty cool! Sorry cant answer.
  3. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,747

    It looks like something any local fab shop could make. A plasma cutter or one of those magnetic tracing torches, or even better yet- a hydrojet cutter, could cut a piece of steel like that perfect, and look factory. It only attaches with a pin in the back, and a rod through the blade(would require cutting).

    Probally about 1-2 hours work for someone with the right tools. pay accordingly.
  4. Runner

    Runner Senior Member
    Messages: 957

    This would be awesome to do with the same concept as the Pro-wings. Use the same ears and just drop the plates down onto the pins, and have a bar that is solid mounted that will reach over to the front of the blade and go through like Image stated. A plate and pin in the back holds it. It is actually a wonder that someone hasn't marketed something like this before. My suggestion would be - where the solid bar (that runs diagonally across to the front of the plow) be bolted to the side plate, rather than welded, so it can be easily replaced if necessary.
    Another idea? Have them adjustable so they can open up wider if desired. This would of course require more holes drilled in the moldboard, but perhaps a bit larger of a plate on the back side would cover the unused holes if that is a concern (actually wouldn't make any difference, because snow just doesn't go through these holes when they are open). Just some ideas......wesport
  5. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,613

    I had fab'ed a set of removable sides from my old sno-way. Used race car hood pins for the back mount and angel bracket on the top sides to hold a t-bar that would keep the side panel in place with float. It was a work in progress so, I never finished getting the proper thinness. However, it took maybe 20/30 seconds a side to in stall and was a huge benefit.
  6. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,747

    You know I was just thinking, how would it trip? The plow has to rotate forward and they would hit. I guess they would have to be up a bit to let it trip. Actually they would be perfect on a trip edge plow.

    Or maybe make the bottom half out of rubber? Then instead of a solid rod, use a cable so it can move with it, but still hold it from pushing out. (i claim royalies if produced)
  7. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,613

    If you build the unit with float the normal trip action will occur ( with in reason ). You do have to keep in mind the plates are installed. ( btw ... I already filed a copyright :eek: )
  8. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,747

    You can have your copyright on the solid parts idea. I get it on the rubber bottom idea using cables instead of a solid rod-- therefor allowing movement. :drinkup:
  9. Runner

    Runner Senior Member
    Messages: 957

    I'm not sure what you mean by the cables, though. I understand the concept of keeping them from spreading, but what t to keep them from collapsing inward? The hard rubber would be the right idea for the bottoms, but man, ...that would still be alot of force on the pads if it did have to trip. I think they should be cut with sort of round edges at the front/bottom, too. this will allow a little rocking action, and also reduce resistance lifting over curbs.
  10. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,747

    Yes they would have to be rounded in front, and maybe an half inch or so off the ground right at the blade edge, and 3-4 inches off the ground @ 8 inches infront of blade.

    The snow pushing out would keep them from collapsing in. Also, only the bottom 10 inches or so would be rubber, which would be attached to the top 20 inches which is 1/4" steel. The steel could have its own solid rod to hold it at a 90^ to the blade, but the rubber would have a cable, so it could flex up and down as it tripped, but it could not go out, just in(and it would go up and in as the blade tripped).

    It should work ok, and allow the blade to trip, but it would not be as good as a trip edge setup, where the whole side could be steel.
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2008

    KEITHRA Junior Member
    Messages: 4

  12. RipT

    RipT Senior Member
    Messages: 184

    That Kage system is pretty slick, especially for the constantly changing needs of a condo complex or such, but is only suitable for a skid steer or tractor-loader rig and not a truck plow, since it depends on the bucket curl function to hook/unhook the push box.

    The not-made-anymore TurkeyWings were pretty much what you are asking for on a truck plow. A functional system can be fabricated by a local welding shop. You really do not have to worry about the perfect edge arrangement, as a little spill-out is no big deal.
  13. Duncan90si

    Duncan90si Senior Member
    Messages: 602

  14. xtreem3d

    xtreem3d PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,548

    thanks for the replies guys...i have a 10foot KAGE setup on my larger bobcat, it is very cool!.. but was wanting to try something a little less costly on the smaller one. i will look at the hiniker set. my plow will have a trip edge so i shouldn't need to worry about spreading the plates out. i've just been too lazy to go out and get the metal to fab something myself.... been looking at some plasma cutters , maybe that will get me motivated
  15. Metro Lawn

    Metro Lawn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,306

    We made end caps for our 10' Meyer on the L9000 Ford. I think the concept would work the same on a smaller plow. I will try to snap some pix for ya.