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Painting the plow blade? Should I sandblast it? what about primer?

Discussion in 'Residential Snow Removal' started by Zack1978, May 20, 2005.

  1. Zack1978

    Zack1978 Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 82

    The plow blade for 79 Toyota 4x4 p/u is in need of some paint. The paint is not falling off, it is just worn from all the years of plowing. So I went to the Fisher Dealer and bought a quart of Fisher yellow paint. How do I paint the blade? Should I brush it on, or should I buy a spray gun? Also do I need to prime the metal first? IF so what type of primer should I use? What about sandblasting? What about just using a wire wheel? Also how do I change the black cutting edge at the bottom of the plow? Is the Fisher paint good?

    Thank you,
  2. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    There are bolts holding the edge on- nuts are on the back. Use a breaker bar with an impact socket/extension and you'll probabily need a cheater bar on it.

    Fisher paint is ok just expensive for what it is. I use Rustoleum sunbust yellow- it's a little paler than Fisher but close enough for me.

    No need to sandblast if you don;t want to (especially if the rust is not bad and your only spot painting). Wire brush the areas you have to paint to get the rust off. With Rustoleum there is no need to prime, but you can if you want (use their rusty metal primer). With Fisher paint I would definatly prime first- use the above Rusty metal primer to ensure it holds well.

    Use a brush to paint. (primer can be sprayed- multiple THIN coats. follow the directions for the best hold) Spraying requires lots of thinner coats therefore more time and is not as durable in the long run because of the amount of work it takes you won;t likely put on as much paint as you should. Brush it on thin so it doesn;t run, let it dry completely and then add a 2nd coat.
    Use a real brush- not a foam brush. Foam brushes catch everything and do not hold as much paint because the paint is so thick.

    If it's paint for protection on a working part (plow blade, dump body) brush it- if it's paint for "pretty" on a show part (fenders, body) spray it for a smoother look.

    Blades get abrasion from the snow and sand with plowing so you want thicker paint coatings- at least 2 coats of paint and probabily 2 to 3 coats of good primer. If you paint over the powder coat expect the powder coat to lift and come off over time. Just touch up those spots in the spring the same way as above.

    Good luck. My Speedcast was painted with Rustoleum and no primer 6 years ago- still looks good, just a bit sun faded in color.
  3. danno

    danno Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    My Fisher needs paint. But also there are a few pitted areas. What can I use on that? I thought maybe a metal "filler", epoxy. Apply with a putty knife like your patching drywall. Would that work? :confused:
  4. Brett K

    Brett K Member
    Messages: 42

    If you are down to bare metal either rusty or freshly sandblasted, use por-15 with their hardnose topcoat. It wears better than powdercoating. I did my dad's Western 5 years ago and it has just started wearing through on the cutting edge. You have to grind the stuff off. Just don't get it on your skin or people will laugh at you for a few weeks. I am going to be doing my Fisher in a few weeks.
  5. motorider000

    motorider000 Senior Member
    Messages: 110

    Where can por-15 be purchased??
  6. danno

    danno Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    Can it be sprayed on ?
  7. Brett K

    Brett K Member
    Messages: 42

    www.por.15.com is the product website and should help you find a local dealer. You can spray it with a Wagner power sprayer but it actually looks much better if you use a brush (less runs).
  8. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

  9. meathead1134

    meathead1134 Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 170

    I took your idea and went with the sunbust yellow, I used my electric grinder with a wire brush attachment. I hit the blade with 2 coats of rusty metal primer and I painted the blade "like john deere green" and the other edges 12 or 16 inches in I painted it sunburst yellow. I took pictures but I cannot resize them to be put on here but it came out great. I painted the brackets and chains flat black.
  10. NJ Plowman

    NJ Plowman Senior Member
    Messages: 794

    We paint our Western's every two years. We take a wire brush wheel on a drill and go over the entire blade and A-frame. We then blow it off with an air gun and brush on Rust-Oleum. We use their BLACK for the cutting edges, angle cylinders and A-frames and their RED for the blades and pumps. We buy both colors by the gallon and the plows come out fantastic with minimal effort. No priming, scraping, just wire brush and paint! :redbounce
  11. bnc services 2

    bnc services 2 Member
    Messages: 66

    i painted my western last year it came out ok. this year i sent it to the acid dipper and then to the powder coater and it came out GREAT and was very CHEAP! now i wont have to worry about it for 2-3 yrs. the powder coater some kinda primier on it first and told me it would last longer then normal.....
  12. danno

    danno Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    BNC SERVICES 2, how much did it cost ?
  13. bnc services 2

    bnc services 2 Member
    Messages: 66

    it only was 140.00 for everything :nod:
  14. NJ Plowman

    NJ Plowman Senior Member
    Messages: 794

    $10 on a wire brush for the drill
    $10 for a quart of Red Rustoleum
    $5 for 1/2 quart of Black Rustoleum

    $25.00 and maybe 2 hours of work. No worries about bringing the plow to another shop, picking it up, ect.

    Lasts for about 2 to 3 years. :bluebounc
  15. danno

    danno Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    I have some pitted areas that I`m filling in. I bought a can of "Metal to Metal" at Eastwood. You apply it like body filler and sand. Waterproof too. Checkout www.eastwood.com.
  16. Vaughn Schultz

    Vaughn Schultz PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,565

    I have found this to be darn right indestructible :D Very cheap to

    Restore equipment to the original factory colors. Resists rust - metal surfaces look good longer. High gloss - hard, durable finish resists abrasion. Multi-purpose - May be used on wood or metal, inside or outside. Non-toxic when dry - Lead-free and safe for all farm or household uses.

    Recommended for farm equipment and implements, wood trim, cabinets, chairs, doors, etc.; storage tanks, pipes, fencing and metal trim. Available in 25 popular colors

  17. Grn Mtn

    Grn Mtn PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,644

    If you don't have a program on your computer to resize the images, and you know you are going to shoot some pictures for the web, just switch your camera to lowest quality. These will be shot at 640x480 and look great on screen, just won't be able to print an 8x10
  18. danno

    danno Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    Also in the pitted areas , I used metal body filler .
  19. GSORK

    GSORK Senior Member
    Messages: 128

    Try to post a pic PLEAES
  20. danno

    danno Senior Member
    Messages: 401

    I also heard to get a "perfect prep" finish, the blade should be "baked" in a auto body type booth to remove moisture that gets embedded from use and also from outdoor exposure. A Fisher rep told me this.