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Old Cable System

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by jfleming, Jan 8, 2015.

  1. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    Guys I need some help, completely rebuilt plow pump, all new electrical wiring 4awg, new electric motor, dual battery etc. We are in the middle of our first storm this season. It is a balmy 2 degrees out. But every time I lift and or tilt the plow the volt gauge is being pulled down to like eight volts. When not running the plow and the lights are on driving normal I am up at 13+ volts

    Is it possible the alternator output is not working correct?
  2. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    Wondering if the lift valve or cable adjustment is out of adjustment a little bit could that cause the problem?
  3. plowzilla

    plowzilla Senior Member
    Messages: 290

    I had this old system before. It was either a grounding issue or the motor/pump working too hard because of a little ice that formed on the filter screen inside the fluid reservoir. Also, I had issues with the old truck and the grounding. I wound up adding a new ground from the motor to the frame.
  4. MnMofTBD

    MnMofTBD Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    We run nothing but ole'fashioned cable style (Meyer and Western) since nearly a decade. Your problem sounds very familiar and, while you can boost the voltage with a few adjustments and parts, will not be gone altogether: We are using heavy duty high amp alternators and the largest heavy duty batteries we can make fit (the 2-battery system has not shown to be any more efficient than our single set-up). Wiring from battery to frame and engine and all wiring between plow motor and battery is 4 gauge (incl. solenoid) on our trucks.
    The result is a power drop of just under 2V (compared to a drop of 6V (I'm not kidding!) without the improvements) on our trucks.
  5. jfleming

    jfleming Member
    Messages: 57

    So what I have found is that I had a bad battery in my dual battery system. I replaced that, I still have a alternator that is flaking out at times and I am awaiting delivery of my new high output unit. What I did do, was add an additional ground wire from my battery right to the back of the alternator. This mad significant improvements. The basis here is that the alternator generates AC and the rectifier converts it to DC. The key here is that the DC + is delivered out the positive terminal on the alternator and the DC- signal is discharged through the back casting on the alternator. So by adding the ground cable directly it makes the DC- get to the battery much more efficient through the copper cable rather than relying on it making it through the bracket, cast block, paint, chassis ground strap and to the battery. This was noticeable for sure. I had all other wires already upgraded accept for this ground, I just had it going to a bracket on the front of the motor. This is notable for anyone to review the wiring and make a small change....