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Need some more input on plow not lowering... pics, diagram

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by berg, Nov 26, 2008.

  1. berg

    berg Member
    from utah
    Messages: 35

    I have a Classic Meyer 6' 5" plow with the e-47 pump.

    I'm not real good on electronics so let me explain what I think may be wrong and hopefully some of you can chime in with suggestions.

    This is a simple system ( see diagram).. I have since hooked the acc power coorect so I have power at the key instead of on all the time.
    PLow works fine to go up and right and left. Plow will still not go down!
    I still can not get it down with my switch.
    I can get it to lower if I jump a 12 v battery pac from the grown to the black wire
    I do not hear the solenoid trio when I lower. Solenoid works fine for up and R and L.
    some questions..

    1. Should the solenoid trip when it lowers?

    2. Could I have a bad switch that does not work in the lower' float position? How does one test with 4 spade connectors for the correct ohms.

    3. I have 4 wires coming out of the back of the switch ( see red dots in pic)
    how do I test for ohms in that situation?

    4. Where can I buy a that switch in a hurry ? I am not convinced it is the switch though.

    my earlier post that might help


  2. sno&go

    sno&go Member
    Messages: 55

    You might have a bad coil. Also make sure the valve itself is not stuck which can happen. With the plow slighly off the grond and the coil off, slowly unscrew the valve and see if the plow lowers. You may have so dirt clogged in the system which might be part of the problem.
  3. tsmith

    tsmith Senior Member
    Messages: 255


    1. no it should not, the solenoid should only go when the pump needs to run. When lowering the coil and valve just releases the pressure and it will lower with gravity, no need for pump.

    2&3 not sure with ohms, but with a continuity tester check each side set of terminals, I think. If you look at your diagram and wiring you should be able to tell which switch terminal should send out power to the black coil wire, if it's not probably the switch.

    Did you test the black wire with you jumper box at the pump or at the switch end? If you didn't at the switch check there, could be a problem between. Find which wire goes directly from the switch to the black coil wire and add power at the switch end and see if it works.

    4. Ebay, Central Parts, Tractor Supply, auto parts store, etc.

    Final thought, can you take the angle switch (even though the spring return is different) and swap it for that one and see if it works, I'm not sure if the wiring will allow that, but if so that would be a good way to test it. You might just want to get a new switch anyhow to have on hand as a spare. Hope this helps.

  4. berg

    berg Member
    from utah
    Messages: 35

    Here is a question.. how does the lowering valve trip if there is no power thru the solenoid .
    Seems like it would need to function just like the other wires where the solenoid trip to send power...
    correct me if I am wrong.
    My harness is good ..my connections are good.. I have continuity thru all wires in the loom and my up switch works and the right left switch.
    Still cant get er' down. Solenoid does have magnetism when I jump the black wire with a 12 volt aux box ands she goes down.
    Still having a hard time thinking its the switch,
  5. tsmith

    tsmith Senior Member
    Messages: 255

    Answer: By power going trough the black wire out to the coil were you hooked up your jumper box. The solenoid is only to power the pump motor. The other 2 wires out there the red and green wired coils should act the same in that when you push the switch to go up it should send power the solenoid and to the red wired coil at the pump, the only difference is that in lower/float mode the pump does not need to run so only the black wire to the coil on the valve should get power from the switch.

    I get what you are saying, but as long as the switch sends out power to that black wire it will work. I hope this makes it clearer. Maybe B&B can explain it better.

  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Run a 12V jumper wire to your lift/lower switch and touch it to the terminal pointed out in this pic. If the blade instantly drops then your switch is defective. Simple as that. :salute:

    Note: dont forget to reconnect the wiring at the pump first.

    Copy of Toggle wiring close up (Small).jpg
  7. berg

    berg Member
    from utah
    Messages: 35

    Jumper wire from the fuse panel ok? I have a spare spade there.... or should I jump direct from batt?

    I'm no electrician as you can see...:confused:
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Doesn't matter any 12V hot source is fine, fuse panel or battery.