1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Need pointers for Self Storage Bid

Discussion in 'Bidding & Estimating' started by ibelee, Mar 3, 2005.

  1. ibelee

    ibelee Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    I was approached by a gentleman at Lowes today asking me to bid the Snow Removal, Landscaping, and some small Construction jobs for his Self Storage Facility. I've pretty well got the bid process down for lots and drives, but need some input and pointers on bidding Storage. He wants a Contract price for the season. 8 lanes, 30 foot wide, 350 feet long, plus front and rear lanes 30 X 350 feet. All snow to be pushed to the center of the lanes. Concrete lanes. Any help is appreciated. :help: Anyone in the area intrested in Subcontracting the Landscaping part, let me know.
  2. ibelee

    ibelee Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    Any help appreciated.

    Western Pro+ w/ rubber curb scraper to get close to the doors?
    Western Pro+ w/ Wings and Curb Scraper = 8.5 feet, 7 feet angled?
    Two passes each side? 5 minutes per pass being careful?
    Typical snow down here is only 3-4". How high can I winrow to the center?
    Would I be better off pushing all the snow to the back of the lot?
  3. Mdirrigation

    Mdirrigation Senior Member
    Messages: 413

    That will work unless its a deep snow . Problems with mini storage 1. if you dont get close to the doors and leave snow they will freeze shut. 2 . If its deep and some rolls to the doors they will bend . 3. There is usually not enough room at the end of the run to pile snow. 4. Someone will be parked in an isle when ever you show up. 5 the outside storage area where they park cars and campers is probably just as tight. 6 the downspouts generally dump in the lot and always leave ice . I did one in the past , didnt re new the contract .

    A bobcat is the best on these .
  4. ibelee

    ibelee Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    Thanks for the tips, Matt.
  5. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    You need a loader of some kind- half way through the season you'll have piles too high to push up with a truck. I had one under contract for 2 months with my Chevy in my 3rd year of plowing. A medium backhoe/loader with a snow box thing might be the best overall.
  6. ibelee

    ibelee Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    Thank you for your advise, justme.
  7. CMerLand

    CMerLand Senior Member
    Messages: 173

    Handled 4 of these back in the mid 90s and as others have mentioned a loader may not be essential but you better have access to one in case you do get a big or several successive storms.

    Blizzard of 96 here in NJ we had 33 inches of light snow and plowed throughout the storm. Plowing the outer rings was no problem, well something of a problem because the snow was so deep. However, we couldnt attempt the rows between the buildings because the wind blew the snow off the roofs of the buildings into the rows and the snow was 4 to 5 feet deep in these areas. We had to call in the back hoes to move it and it took them several hours at each location, particularly since the snow had to be carted out to the end of each row and dumped into retention basins.

    The roll it to the middle theory works only if your sure its going to melt out before the next storm. Otherwise those rows get thin real fast
  8. Lawnboy67

    Lawnboy67 Junior Member
    Messages: 22

    V BLADE.........Wind row it to center and scoop with V Blade then use loader when the pile is sky high and bill them again for that service. Unless they have an area with a gate that you can push the snow out side with.
  9. SLSNursery

    SLSNursery PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 140

    Loader or Patience with plows will work

    We have done a couple of these for a few years now, and I have found that using our 2 1/2 yard loader works well, especially in conjunction with a truck or two. We have also NOT committed to opening the garage doors, therefore we don't really need to get too close, and risk crushing the snow into the doors. Nice slow passes will get the job done without forcing the snow into the doorways. The rows we push aren't quite as long as yours, but it works well to split them in half, rather than try to make a full length push. In relation to those doors, I have provided loader only service to another contractor who has a different storage unit account, and he has guys shovel each door open. I don't think it is possible to get paid enough to provide that level of service. He usually can do the detail work there a day or two after a large storm, but I find that the guys are tired at that point. We can pretty much finish one of ours in 2 - 2 1/2 hours (total machine/truck time) depending on the snow (3" - 12"). By the way, I've noticed that the only units that get cleaned out totally aren't the general storage users. Usually the contractors (like cable TV or Phone guys) who use them will dig themselves out. Subsequent to plowing we generally don't use sand, but might use straight salt, and this helps melt the small windrow in front of the doors. This might account for another 20-30 minutes plus the cost of the Salt. It would be charged separately.

    We have also done them without the loader with straight blades (no vees or tips). It just takes a little patience and drivers who can prevent the snow from overflowing on the blade. By pushing the aisles piece at a time to the ends and then making the loop pushing to the outside, we've had success. The comment about the lack of space is pretty relevent too. At some point we've always had to eventually get the loader in even just to clear the corners of the buildings and the ends of rows. I would think the wings or a vee would make it a piece of cake.