What year truck we talkin' about here? If it's a '73 to '87, I've done it a few times, anything earlier or newer I haven't. Also, I've never dealt with power windows/door locks.
It's a fairly straightforward operation, biggest ingredient is patience - especially when dealing with those wretched *(&^^&%^% clips that GM likes using! (The horseshoe type for the window crank as well as the clips for the door lock rods)
Some service & repair manuals also have a "bodywork" section which outline procedures for working on the door guts.
And, the old tip often given when working on brakes of "leave one side intact as a reference" works well here too: Swap parts out of one door at a time, using the other one as a guide to how everything should look.
Just don't tackle this job if you've had a stressful day at work - voice of experience talking!
Rob is right on, and having small hands helps. Also, every edge is a sharp edge, so be CAREFUL.
You might also want to coat the inside bottoms of the doors with undercoating. Might help them last longer than the originals.
I had a buddy with a 67 Chevelle, and he used to squirt motor oil inside the doors every few months. He claimed it worked it's way into the crimped seam on the bottom, and helped prevent rust. He did the same on the front fenders along the top of the wheel arch.
If the doors you have are new, then they need to be painted inside, since they come only primed. Use a scuff pad to scuff what you can before painting them.
I've gotta differ with you, Chuck. The stuff to use inside doors is rustproofing, not undercoating. Rustproofing is exactly what the name implies, for fighting corrosion. Undercoating has the nasty habit of loosening from the substrate and trapping moisture against the metal. I use a product called Rusfree, it has a smell much like old Ziebart/TuffCoat products, I suspect it is mostly beeswax with some sort of solvent. The stuff does work though and I use it liberally whenever I do repair work. I apply it with a spray gun made for rustproofing and undercoating that I got form the Eastwood Co. J.C. Whitney has the same setup, under $50 from either place and it gets into corners and crannies real well.
Thanks for the info on the *(&^^&%^% clip tool Dave! And the guys who mentioned Band-Aids are right.
One thing I forgot to mention - what I like to call the "soft parts" around the window (the felt strips that wipe the glass and the channel that surrounds the window opening) are often pretty tired, now's the best time to replace them. Same goes for the door hinge pins & bushings, since you've got the door off anyway.
I believe JC Whitney sells the window felts & channel, as do some other parts sources that specialize in Chevy trucks.
Good luck with the "gut transplant" - it's not impossible, just tedious.
If its a newer GM they use those BIg rivets to
hold the window and guts in there.
No more nuts and bolts.
The rivet guns I've seen at the gm body shop
are huge things.
Pull the door panel off first and have a look.........Geo
Not stainless, they're aluminum. Went through that last spring when I had to put on a new door. I cheated, took both old and new to a body shop and had them do the swap. On the older ones (I'm familiar with a 78) the job goes pretty easy once you figure out which way to turn stuff so it will go in through those little access ports.