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monarch pumps

Discussion in 'Residential Snow Removal' started by 2WHEELGNNR, Jan 9, 2014.


    2WHEELGNNR Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    I've heard many are using monarch pumps as aftermarket pumps for plow. looking at them many have reserviours too. what models would one suggest for a fisher pump? not sure what the lift capacity needs to be or any specs like that...looking to see if a moderately priced monarch will work for my application. Thank you for any help guidance....Ive just heard them mentioned a lot.
  2. jasonv

    jasonv PlowSite.com Addict
    from kannada
    Messages: 1,122

    Some plows use monarch pumps as OEM. Mine came with a monarch M-200 (aka M-3226).

    Note that it really isn't a question of "a fisher pump", since replacing the pump is... well, replacing it.

    2WHEELGNNR Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    still Jason good to know....I can look that up and see if it works...besides im reconfiguring it potentiall from under the hood to something different.
  4. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,440

    I assume you are referring to an electric/hyd. plow pump. The plow does not care if it is a Fisher or Meyer or Western or whatever. You need pressure=force and volume = speed. I am using a Fenner/SPX/Stone set up (was underhood elect, now mounted similar to insta act). I modified it by making it verticle and also changed from the slow 1.6cc/revolution pump to a 3.1cc/revolution pump. I can also adjust the pressures with this pump. It is nice and fast with the bigger CC pump. The old diamond plow I am using is heavy though, so going up is fast but not as fast as I want it to be, but faster than other factory set ups I have seen.

    2WHEELGNNR Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    damn TJS...some FINE metal work there!! that's actually making me think I may do something the same so it can come of truck..what sorta pump is that.. you answer what your set up is above..sorry...re read it..thanks..

    I can do that....Problem is I don't know if I trust me welds to something like that...My mig cant do that big so Id be stuck with the stick welder.....

    But man...fine work to that...engineering genius. so you got a push plate them took an old speed caster and sorta make it fit and went from there..I'm inspired!!!!!! will finish all your links..nice work man. Id like to go electric but man..the are some big bucks.

    the only thing/ question...does the headgear get mounted directly to the a fram of the plow? if that was the case though the headgear would somewhat rise and lower with the plow and its hinge point on the MM pusher plate??

    I will have to look at some diagrams. of the whole plow the new way. Thanks for the thoughts and idea and getting me going..still may build all and take to weld shop as again I don't trust my weld 100%.
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  6. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    Whenever I don't trust my welding, I just cut and make the pieces, tack weld everything together, then take it to a welding shop to finish it up.

  7. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,440

    2wheel. Please tell us what your goal and project you want to do. I cannot figure it out.

    2WHEELGNNR Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    TJS.....I have a fisher speedcaster with under hood hydraulics...and the Headgear (mounts all one pc) are from a Ford f-250 and im trying to figure out how to get on my truck.

    I would like the headgear and all to be removable for when not in use like you would for a modern MM2 or something like that...Im also trying to find another way to power this unit as Im pretty sure I don't have the room under my hood for the hydraulics or if I do I don't have a way to Spin it..IE cant find a cam pulley for the v belt.

    I have a 2002 Ford f-150. The upward tabs on my mount are 23" and the truck frame is 29" so plow frame not "wide" enough so to speak.

    Thank you all..tack and then take to the shop..good idea!!!
  9. White Gardens

    White Gardens 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,665

    You can always check to see if you have an auxiliary provision on your pulley system on your truck. Usually there is a spot on where there is bolt holes to put a mount and such.

    This is the case on my C3500HD. It was meant to set up with dual alternators, or any other sort of extra provision. In my case, they put in a central hydraulic pump. Only problem though is that the serpentine belt is an odd length, and I had to get an 8 rib belt, then cut two ribs off the belt as they didn't have a 6 rib in the length I needed.

  10. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,440

    Thanks 2Wheel. Now I understand what you want to do. To answer your question about my set up yes it is a Minute Mount set up. A MM1 upright was used in my conversion. This in fact does remove from the truck just like a MM2.

    Here is what you would need. Not sure if Fisher makes a frame mount for MM(X) for your truck. You might want to post that question in the Fisher forum or go to the Fisher site and see if they make a set up. You will need the MM1 upright assembly (craigslist,ebay and Plowsite are good sources for that). The speedcast “ A” frame with the three pin holes should line up to the MM1 upright without modification. The best source of a pump for you would be a Fisher SEHP (solenoid, electric hydraulic pack, you need the 10” one)or insta-act pump. Again, here is a good source or ebay, however they are heavy for shipping. You would need a joystick controller for that with the six pin. If you are good with wiring you can build your own harness for the lights. I did that with my set up and did not use any Fisher modules or other stuff. Just 2 relays and a DPDT switch and some wiring. I think I might show some of what I did in my Diamond to MM1 conversion.

    However it might be cheaper to find a truck side MM1 with blade with a SEHP pump or insta act pump. By the time you convert your speedcast (MM1 upright, SEHP or Insta-act pump, control, and frame mounts) it might be cheaper to find a whole plow side set up and sell your speedcast.

    I was able to save a lot on my conversion cause I made a lot of stuff. Had more time than money. I already had a Fenner pump from way back. So all it cost me was an upright and truck side mounts.

    If Fisher does not make a frame mount kit then you would need to buy one from let’s say a F250 superduty and cut it up and re-weld to adapt it to your truck frame. Note: these mounting kits are not cheap even used. I got mine real cheap cause it had cracks in it, which was not a big deal for me as I beef all this stuff up anyway.

    2WHEELGNNR Junior Member
    Messages: 20

    thanks for the advise..Im finding too that used stuff is NOT cheap! this was!!
    ]cut and reweld...that may work. I can do the wire harness part....and I will look into your pump..Ive also been planning to look under the hood and see what I can do as well as for the auxiliary belt drive.

    I have to some rewelding and repairing on the plow surface too...I m say way more time than money and im notorious or finding pcs of turds and shining them up to rough diamonds!

    I will look inot all this..already have some idea...MM(X) mounts I saw used were like 500 bucks!!

    but you've given me another idea..maybe I can cut and bring the tabs closer.

    I will have to track my progress like you guys do/did.

    the only thing that throws me off that you said is a new controller with 6pin..right now they are manual cables..Im still stumped on how that will go through my dash and fire wall for the manual hyd valve!! we will see.

    Thanks. Im sure this will take me till next season to even realize the dream of a plow but it'll be worth it.....off to turd polishing I go.

    already starting prepping and painting. get all rust off and make good again. :mechanic:
  12. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,440

    SEHP and Insta act pumps are elect. so this would eliminate your joystick cable set up. You would need an elect. Fisher/Western joystick set up.