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Meyer TM sheared pivot bolt

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by Northman, Dec 26, 2010.

  1. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    Got lucky I inspected before I went out today. I never even noticed anything was wrong. Sheared a pass side pivot bolt on TM plow.

    So where is instructions to make this job a little easier, the way it suppose to be done at least?
    I went at it and finally was able to get the center section part of bolt that was left in the pivot hole area out, it sheared both ends right off.
    I had a make shift large bolt to put in it's place for time being and what a PITA that was getting all 4 holes lined up. Finally came in and begged the wife for a 3rd hand to tap bolt in place, while I lifted and pulled in to get plow holes lined up.

    Anyway another question how can I tell which pivot bolt I need? There is 2 listed and one is for pre- may 2003. The one I had had a grease zerk fitting on one end.

    13598 pre-may 03 P B
    13753 after pivot bolt
    20309 lock nut
  2. Kenyou

    Kenyou Senior Member
    Messages: 375

    You sure had your hands full on this project. I'm not sure which pins to use as all I did was go to the Meyer dealer and told him I wanted Pins with grease zerks for my CP8. unless they change them, I won't pay the extra for them again.

    In my case, I tried everything including heating the pins which guys said will work. Wrong, the heat makes them swell. Then later a plowsite guy said to heat the tube only and apparently that works because you want the tube to swell and not the Pin.
    Anyway, I had a guy remove frozen Pivot Pins and install the new ones with the grease zerks, which didn't help because the grease only came out by the holes next to the zerk. The rest of the pin didn't get any grease. (Do a Search as some guys have found a great way to put in grease zerks that work.) The next time when I couldn't get them out, he took them out I watched him do it. They weren't really frozen like the first time. He tried to knock them out like everybody says and it didn't work just like I had tried to do. This time he took the plow off the truck after he removed all the springs and then tipped the plow over on the face of the mold board and laid the A Frame down the on the ground to give him more room. Then with a little wiggling, the pivot pins were easily removed without all the weight of the plow on them. I then put Anti Seize and then grease on the pins and on the sector side and the spring bolts. This year I tried the old way and it still didn't work. So I did what he had done and they still didn't come out. So I used a little pry bar to lift up on the sector side as it seemed to be binding on the pin and they slid right out with the grease and Anti Seize still on them. I cleaned the pins and Anti Siezed the heck out of them and the inside of the tubes. When I put the pins back in, I tried to take them out right away just to see what would happen and couldn't until I relieved that pressure.
    Now maybe that was because it was all done on the uneven ground and not on the cement. Next time I will do it on the cement and see if that helps.
  3. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    I got the old pivot bolt out yesterday and a cheap bolt I had on hand to slip in there till I get a good one. I did so with a jack and muscling the plow against the spring tension. I think I was suppose to loosen the trip springs, but I didn't.

    I just called my local meyer dealer and he pissed me off so bad with his no freaking knowledge of what he is doing trying to sale parts on the phone I told him what I thought and hung up (sad part is I dont know squat). How hard can it be when I can give you plow type and 2 part numbers used for the bolt and 1 for the nut used.

    Now tell me this what is so freaking special about this 5/8" x 6-3/4" pivot bolt $39 at dealer and $28 at online dealer with the zerk fitting and zinc coating? What is the hardness?

    Also the locknut 5/8-11 zinc plated almost $4. What is special about it?

    Thanks for the anti-seize idea and I noticed the grease dont seem to go all the way before season and yesterday re-doing the ones left.
  4. Kenyou

    Kenyou Senior Member
    Messages: 375

    I know what you mean about the Meyer dealer. My dealer sells Meyer and Western. The first time I went there the guy said, if you didn't have a Meyer, you wouldn't these parts. A few years later Meyer has dumped him because nobody wanted to buy their plows.

    I don't know about your plow because mine doesn't have nut on the end of the pivot pin. It has a cotter key to hold it from coming out. I'm sure someone else knows the hardness of the pin that should be used.

    I use Anti Sieze on everything that might have to come off and Fluid Film it when I'm done putting it together. Anti Sieze is dirty to work with but the nuts don't come off by themselves. As for the pivot pin, it's not like your mold board is constantly pivoting like a bearing etc.

    Good Luck and let us know how you make out.
  5. dave_dj1

    dave_dj1 Senior Member
    from NY
    Messages: 358

    I had to change some pivot pins in my 7' plow for my jeep, I just used 7/8 or 1" bolts from tractor supply, $1.89/lbs
  6. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    I went with grade 3 zinc coated 5/8x7" bolts at the old fashion hardware store we have in town for $3.19 a piece. Then I bought the same looking zinc plated nylon lock-nut 5/8-11 for .75 cents. I bought 2 more sets of bolts and nuts for back ups. Then a tube of anti-size and 6 washers for a grand total of $20. I will just grease and use anti-seize before each season.

    All I can say is go ahead local meyer dealer keep ticking people off and see where that gets you. :whistling:
  7. Mahumba

    Mahumba Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    Yes. Just heat the tube and tap out the pins. They are easy to get out of the blade but it's difficult to get them out of the plow frame. I helped a buddy do this and you have to get the tube glowing red before anything will move!

  8. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    Put the $3.19 grade 3 bolt and .75 nylon lock-nut in today with anti-seize and grease. didn't end up using any washers I bought. Thumbs Up

    Now to see how long it last compared to the $39 meyer bolt and $4 nut. :dizzy::eek::whistling:
  9. Luppy

    Luppy Senior Member
    Messages: 325

    Bought my TM 6.5 brand new in November 1999 and last season
    was the first time one of these broke on me - the right side one and I
    replaced it with the 28 dollar online OEM bolt. The other day the
    left side one broke. Local HW store didn't have what I needed so
    I went on Boltdepot.com and found grade 5 zinc coated 5/8x7" bolts
    and matching nylon lock nuts. I think the bolts were $1.95 each
    and the nuts were like .32 cents. The place is two towns over from
    me so I can go pick em up at their warehouse. I'll probably slather
    it with never seize before bolting it on and see how that works out
    for the rest of the season. Worse comes to worse I'll put a grease
    fitting in the pivot tube. I had kept them both well greased all of
    the time so I know it didn't snap from being dry. Needless to say
    I don't think I'll be buying another over priced OEM pivot bolt again.
    Glad you too are back in business with a relative simple fix.
  10. Northman

    Northman Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 201

    I still wonder on the grade of the OEM bolts. My dad explained somethings are made to shear off instead of causing damage to something more expensive. That's why I chose grade 3. I was scared to go higher just in case that was the thinking behind them shearing the heads off.

    Mine sheared both ends on right side.

    So anyone know OEM pivot bolts grade?