[Colorado snowbound]

This fall I connected the plow up, it would not angle right. I replaced the C valve and coil. Everything worked great for awhile. It is back to acting up. It wants to go right, moves slightly and then the motor makes a different sound and no movement. Everything else operates fine. Any ideas?

 

[Mountain Bob]

Check your fluid and screens. If fluid is milky, you have problems.
If not, replace the hose quick connects, both sides. Sometimes just unhooking them and reconnecting will make them work again, for a while. Make sure C valve does "click" when trying to move right.
But betting is the connectors.

 

[Randall Ave]

The quick connects could be bad. You could have dirt in the fluid that plugged up the new valve. Have you ever serviced it, filters and all?

 

[Chuck Smith]

It could also be mechanical binding. The different sound is the pump going into relief (deadheading). Either a blocked Coupler, or mechanical binding.

 

[Colorado snowbound]

So I disconnected the new nipple, compressed the right ram by hand. Hooked up an old nipple. Now the motor barely wants to raise. This motor was just working, can it fail that quickly? Many motors on the market, suggestions on which one to buy? Also noticed the right ram is showing o-ring fragments. Could that be the source of my original problem, and now by coincidence my motor has crapped too…

 

[Mountain Bob]

Does the motor run? If so, sounds like low on oil.

 

[Randall Ave]

If you look on craigslist or facebook marketplace, you can probably find a used 47, or mabey an E 60. Which back then was the next newer model. Had faster hydraulics.

 

[Chuck Smith]

If this is not a daily driver, charge the battery fully, then try again.

 

[Colorado snowbound]

Well, okay..the plow is performing normally. The old pressure nipple seems to be not sticking and therefore the plow is angling right. The pump was out of oil, and took a whole quart. I had started the season with it full, so somewhere is a leak that I have not identified. Somehow the battery got completely crushed, so I had to replace that, and went to a dual battery set up. I have a replacement motor coming, I will install that just to keep investing in my setup. I unfortunately broke a weld on the truck frame mount, I believe this was because the pressure nipple on the right ram was sticking, and therefore would not compress, thereby applying those forces to the frame mount. I am still leary though..got it welded back together. So, can I make an assumption that the crossover relief valve is operating correctly?

At this stage, all I am lacking for a complete rebuild would be the two rams, the crossover valve, and the A valve & coil. I should just go for the whole enchilada right ?! Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

 

[Mountain Bob]

Technically, replacing a few parts is not a "rebuild".
The old style "ball" couplers are known problems, not just for Meyer, for many years. "Pin" type are much better, and now there is even a newer version of couplers.
Have never seen a crossover "fail" to where it holds plow stuck, usually they fail then blade swings side to side, easily. Usually just a spring rusts and breaks. "a" valve coils do die, because they are "on" the most. Coils are cheap, buy a spare. There are 2 different ones, but there are pictures to show the difference. Remove and clean your filters/screens. Make sure the plow oil does not have water in it, generally oil will be milky, unless sitting a while. If it is milky, check back for info, help will be here. The swing cylinders can leak, and not be very noticeable
I suspect your plow is also old, check and replace if necessary the .pivot pins and the king bolt, pay attention to the layers of metal the king goes through, the bushings wear out, eventually the metal shears off, not a fun thing when you are out and plowing, and plow ends up "dangling".