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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, I’m hoping someone can help me. I have an E-47 I rebuilt 4 years ago that has worked flawlessly until I tried hooking it up this year and the coil wires broke off so I bought a new set (a,b,c) and replaced them. When I hooked up my positive and negative cables I obviously was half asleep and hooked them up in reverse so when I first tried lifting my plow it obviously didn’t work. I finally realized my mistake and got my cables right. I mention that just in case it could have damaged something and is the reason for my issues.
The plow raised the very first try then wouldn’t raise again until I angled it right or left. Then it would raise 75% of the time. The ram would try to raise it every time but acted like it couldn’t produce enough pressure until something would change after angling it.
So I replaced the motor...no fix. Replaced the pump...no fix. I tested the coils for magnetism...they were good. Then I removed the b and c valves and watched them actuate and seemed fine. I have 14V going into my toggle switch and 10.6V at the red wire on my motor. My fluid reservoir is 1.5” away from top.
I was able to use the plow for about an hour and it raises most of the time if I tried raising it while my plow was resting on my snow pile before backing up. Then it got to where it would raise the ram but when I backed up it wouldn’t hold it up until I angled it multiple times and now I’m lucky if I can get it to raise at all after triggering my toggle switch 10-20 times.
Does anyone have any ideas?
 

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I was able to use the plow for about an hour and it raises most of the time if I tried raising it while my plow was resting on my snow pile before backing up. Then it got to where it would raise the ram but when I backed up it wouldn't hold it up until I angled it multiple times and now I'm lucky if I can get it to raise at all after triggering my toggle switch 10-20 times.
Does anyone have any ideas?
What do you mean "it wouldn't hold it up"? The plow lowered on its own?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not a Meyer guy, but it sounds like the lower valve might be getting stuck or is staying energized. I would see if A (black wire) is being powered when it shouldn't be.

Thanks for the tip cwren!

I don't know what is happening for sure but the A valve appears to be the problem. It has magnetism when actuated. I removed it to see if it was moving on the inside when energized and it was. The screen was clean and my fluid looks good. I sprayed the valve out with brake cleaner then with air and made sure it was blowing through the valve.
Once I put it back together the plow would raise after clicking the slick stick but sometimes it would take two times before it would raise. I plowed with it for about 2 hours and it just kept taking more and more clicks all the time and had to start angling side to side to get it to eventually raise. It finally got to where it wouldn't raise until I clicked it to raise or angled it 20 times. So I removed the A valve again and cleaned then blew it out and it started raising with one or two clicks again. So I ordered a new A valve. Does anyone think there are other problems besides the valve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm not a Meyer guy, but it sounds like the lower valve might be getting stuck or is staying energized. I would see if A (black wire) is being powered when it shouldn't be.
I did some further voltage testing and found my solenoid has 13.9V coming in and as soon as you trigger the plow the voltage coming in and going out changes to 11.2V. I definitely don't know how to troubleshoot electrical issues so I don't know why that happens. Do you?

I took my Slik Stick apart to see what it looked like inside and it seemed like the contacts next to the one that would be actuated were a little too close to touching so I bent the contact cross to give them a little more clearance. Before doing that I was getting 10.6V max to B & C coils and 13.9V to A Coil and after that I was getting 11.8V to my A & B coils but the plow still wouldn't raise unless I removed the A Valve and cleaned it and then it would improve for about 10 raises. Then it would pretty much stop and need cleaning again.

Also I unhooked all of my coil wires and tested the voltage on the Red, Black, and Green wires coming from my Slik Stick and found the following:



Sorry for my electrical ignorance. It is my worst troubleshooting skill. I am trying to learn more.

How can there be voltage going to wires other than the one that is being actuated by the Slik Stick? Is it partially touching another contact through the cross in the Slik Stick or jumping the gap?

I also found that my coils were very slightly magnetized even when my truck is off and the wires weren't even connected. That would be causing the valves to half way actuate which would cause my A Valve to not seal. Could it be that when I remove the valve and clean it somehow that is removing some of the magnetism that is there when there is no voltage going to any of the valves then it starts to build in the valve again once I start using the plow and then it stops working because the coil magnetizes and starts to hold the valve from sealing and won't let the pressure build to raise the plow? Or I'm wondering if maybe my A Coil is junk even though it's new?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did some further voltage testing and found my solenoid has 13.9V coming in and as soon as you trigger the plow the voltage coming in and going out changes to 11.2V. I definitely don't know how to troubleshoot electrical issues so I don't know why that happens. Do you?

I took my Slik Stick apart to see what it looked like inside and it seemed like the contacts next to the one that would be actuated were a little too close to touching so I bent the contact cross to give them a little more clearance. Before doing that I was getting 10.6V max to B & C coils and 13.9V to A Coil and after that I was getting 11.8V to my A & B coils but the plow still wouldn't raise unless I removed the A Valve and cleaned it and then it would improve for about 10 raises. Then it would pretty much stop and need cleaning again.

Also I unhooked all of my coil wires and tested the voltage on the Red, Black, and Green wires coming from my Slik Stick and found the following:



Sorry for my electrical ignorance. It is my worst troubleshooting skill. I am trying to learn more.

How can there be voltage going to wires other than the one that is being actuated by the Slik Stick? Is it partially touching another contact through the cross in the Slik Stick or jumping the gap?

I also found that my coils were very slightly magnetized even when my truck is off and the wires weren't even connected. That would be causing the valves to half way actuate which would cause my A Valve to not seal. Could it be that when I remove the valve and clean it somehow that is removing some of the magnetism that is there when there is no voltage going to any of the valves then it starts to build in the valve again once I start using the plow and then it stops working because the coil magnetizes and starts to hold the valve from sealing and won't let the pressure build to raise the plow? Or I'm wondering if maybe my A Coil is junk even though it's new?
Oops I made a typo. After bending the Slik Stick cross I was getting 11.8V to my B & C coils (Not A & B). I was getting 14.0V to my A Coil.
 

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The change in voltage is normal. As there is more draw, you'll get lower voltage. The reason the A coil is reading higher is because the motor doesnt run when lowering

From what you are saying, it sounds like the A valve is bad and needs to be replaced, or some sort of contaminant keeps clogging it.

I cant imagine that any residue magnetism, unpowered, is enough to have any effect and I think its unrelated

Your picture didnt load, but if you are getting power to coils when they shouldn't be, either the posts on the slick stick are touching or the harness is damaged somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I did some further voltage testing and found my solenoid has 13.9V coming in and as soon as you trigger the plow the voltage coming in and going out changes to 11.2V. I definitely don't know how to troubleshoot electrical issues so I don't know why that happens. Do you?

I took my Slik Stick apart to see what it looked like inside and it seemed like the contacts next to the one that would be actuated were a little too close to touching so I bent the contact cross to give them a little more clearance. Before doing that I was getting 10.6V max to B & C coils and 13.9V to A Coil and after that I was getting 11.8V to my A & B coils but the plow still wouldn't raise unless I removed the A Valve and cleaned it and then it would improve for about 10 raises. Then it would pretty much stop and need cleaning again.

Also I unhooked all of my coil wires and tested the voltage on the Red, Black, and Green wires coming from my Slik Stick and found the following:



Sorry for my electrical ignorance. It is my worst troubleshooting skill. I am trying to learn more.

How can there be voltage going to wires other than the one that is being actuated by the Slik Stick? Is it partially touching another contact through the cross in the Slik Stick or jumping the gap?

I also found that my coils were very slightly magnetized even when my truck is off and the wires weren't even connected. That would be causing the valves to half way actuate which would cause my A Valve to not seal. Could it be that when I remove the valve and clean it somehow that is removing some of the magnetism that is there when there is no voltage going to any of the valves then it starts to build in the valve again once I start using the plow and then it stops working because the coil magnetizes and starts to hold the valve from sealing and won't let the pressure build to raise the plow? Or I'm wondering if maybe my A Coil is junk even though it's new?
Sorry for all the messed up posts. The image above that doesn't work was supposed to be this:
Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Screenshot
 
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