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making cutting edge last

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by John Mac, Dec 20, 2007.

  1. John Mac

    John Mac Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    A few months back I was putting some hard facing on one of my excavator buckets and thought I would try it on my Boss V blade. My Cutting edge was worn at the ends more than in the middle and Instead of putting new edges on I just built up the bottom with hard facing stick and my stick welder. After many hours of plowing, ( I live in central NY) I took a look at the edges and WOW, same as the day I did it. Very little used up, was impressed at how well they are lasting so I did the whole length of the plow. Anybody think of this trick before me or do I get the all the credit.
  2. Mark Witcher

    Mark Witcher Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    I tried hard facing the plow shoes before. They lasted a little longer, but not enough to justify the cost and time of the welding rod. So I gave that up.
  3. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I tried it on the ends of a straight blade edge once...it worked pretty well but the time and cost of repairing it out weighed the cost of just replacing the edge altogether....
  4. Hard Stick welding

    I wear out the pipe that we put over the cutting edge (which is hardly warn since 99)
    aka the yard guard.
    These are only 80bucks but one warn slightly (broken in) does a better job than
    a new one.
    Up'til now, I have had a friend use a wire feed welder and chris-cross the flattened
    bottom before it gets too thin. This doubles the life of the yard-guard.
    But we (he) has to do this very carefully and switch ends to minimize warping the pipe.

    I am not a welder but interested in what you call 'hard stick' (?)

    I have a small welder (very small) welder that was my dads. How do I findout if I can
    use this 'hard stick' weld rod ??

  5. makplow

    makplow Senior Member
    Messages: 242

    I have had people suggest trying. So I might just do so. I have about 30 streets I share with another sub in the town I live The plow is hitting the asphalt almost 95 % ot the time while plowing. I go through aprox 4 cutting edges every 80 hours of plowing and that is not much when you plow 15 too 20 hours during a storm, I pay roughly 140.00 dollars for my cutting edges from the Curtis Factory outlet in Worcester Mass, They manufacture the plows in there plant in Worcester on Higgins St. I think it is worth trying.

  6. John Mac

    John Mac Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    I am surprised that it didn't last longer. You can get many different hard facing sticks and maybe yours was not hard enough. The one I use last as long as carbide.

    You will need a stick welder not a mig because a spool of this stuff for migs is big $. The stick welder should be at least 250 amps. The sticks cost about $2 each I used 4 of them. Just weld the hard facing on the front of the cutting edge, found this easier than the bottom and last just as long. After about 120 hours of plowing concrete and rough pavement ( just binder on most lots no top coat or sealer) no wear at all.
  7. G.M.Landscaping

    G.M.Landscaping Senior Member
    Messages: 362

    John Mac , can you take a picture of what you did. I have a Lincoln 225AC/125DC welder. Will that work? I haven't used my stick welder in many years since I bought my Mig. I'm more of a bubble gum welder.

    If you only spent $8 it seems well worth it . I never did any hard facing, so I'm curious at what it does.
  8. oldmankent

    oldmankent PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,322

    Hard facing rod is usually used on excavator buckets. You line the high wear edges and surfaces of the bucket with this rod. It is a very high carbon steel rod I believe. This makes it wear better than normal. Basically he is just doing this to the bottom of his blade to increase the life span. I wouldn't try it with anything but a hard facing high carbon rod. Don't think it would work too well on my poly edge.
  9. John Mac

    John Mac Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    Yah, poly edge could get a little soft! :drinkup:

    Your lincoln will work, like oldmankent said I am just welding a bead along the bottom egde of the cutting egde. I did two beads, the secound one on top of the first. I will try and remember to take a photo. I also put some on the corners for curb protection.
  10. jgibb150

    jgibb150 Junior Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 29

    alot of guys have told me to run with my plow shoes on and it will save my cutting edge what do you think?
  11. EJK2352

    EJK2352 Senior Member
    Messages: 193

    Check out www.winterequipment.com they make a plow guard for Meyer, Western, Fisher, etc... called the Xtendor. The dot uses their larger version on their plows and it really extends the cutting edge life. These plow guards use a carbide matrix weld.
  12. terrapro

    terrapro PlowSite Veteran
    from MI
    Messages: 3,912

    yah but then youll be replacing your plow shoes :D
  13. makplow

    makplow Senior Member
    Messages: 242

    Thanks for the link! looks interesting.

  14. Daner

    Daner PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,187

    There are Hardface rods and then there's Build up rods...without me writing pages of Info, and how to apply...I will give you guys some tips...don't put too much hard face on...you will have checking<----thats a bad thing. If Its worn down...you build It up first with build up rod<-------this rod Is also called a cushion rod and which is also work hardened<------meaning it gets harder as It get rubbed on the pavement...same as the hard face rod.
    Now there are so many hardfacing rods out there...and we have used many different brands.
    When you build up a part shoe ...edge etc...don't let it get red hot...do a bit at a time chip it off...until you have your right shape or size...then lay the hard facing to it...not too hot...308L Stainless will work not too bad...but i would suggest Unitec H63 for you hardfacing...I have uses 100s of others that seems to work the best for the money...goes on easy to...the build up Is a H60...or you can build up with 7018...then hard face on top with the H63.
    If Its not put on properly the part could break, chip ware off fast. A good welder will know where the stress are or load is and the RC or the hardness of the material It self and make the adjustments to suit.
    Hope this helps
  15. John Mac

    John Mac Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    H63 is what I used, one bead thick two beads wide. You know your welding, I am not that smart but what ever I did it is working. I did go slow just because my welders cycle time, and chip the slag as I went. I put 1' foot extensions on my plow and the cuttting edge is not factory so the metal worn a lot faster so this has help a ton. Here is photo of my blade extension, made a 8' 2" plow 10' 2". These photo's are before the hard facing.

    View attachment 30405

    View attachment 30406
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2008
  16. Daner

    Daner PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,187

    That sounds good to me...the trick Is to not have much... what we call depth of fusion too much...glad to hear u used the h63...tip...never use it to build up too much on your edges.

    2 beads wide i bead thick...Ur good!...check on the box...it will tell you the RC Value...some are used for impact some are used for abrasion...and your using the right rod

    Let me know If you need to know what material to use for steel...there are alot of steels out there just like the rods LOL
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2007
  17. NLS1

    NLS1 Senior Member
    Messages: 321

    Thanks for the posts everyone, very interesting.
    Like the idea of hard facing, used to see it at the Cat dealer I worked at on the big buckets and stuff, cool to try on the little stuff too... why not right?
    Those wing extensions on the Boss look good too John Mac, nice work!
  18. SnowMatt13

    SnowMatt13 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,559

    I second the vote for the Extendor....run them on all the small plows at work. Great results.