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made push plates for 2008 gmc 1500

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by vtjeeper, Feb 11, 2011.

  1. vtjeeper

    vtjeeper Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 14

    Finally getting around to posting a few pictures of what I made for push plates. I'd like to put a couple more small pieces of steel on them but I had limited time to work so I might later. I have smacked into some snow banks much harder than my 3/4 ton current plow guy and they don't seem to have moved at all. The plow I believe is a mid 90's 7.5' fisher mm1 hd maybe. insta-act hydros eforce 4 port isolation module, all off a 94 ford f150, complete setup. I rigged up a switch and relay for the low beams and connected the marker lights to that too. I've used it a handfull of times now. I cut off the horn/guide part of the plates and started from that, making my push plates similar-ish to the fisher ones. the plates coming down by the tow hooks are 3/8, everything else is 1/4 steel. the finished pic is with the plow set down, it sinks the front end about 1" at the wheel well, maybe as much as 1.25" when raised. I will be plowing my 300' driveway and possibly a 1/4mi private road and 3 other smaller driveways. haven't decided on if I want that responsibility yet. I'd also like to make an extension wing for the pass side to throw the snow back further going down the private road, and my driveway. and it needs a foil/deflector and a cutting edge, as it is bare plow right now. I do have shoes for it. this is long winded, but I have pics for the illiterate and those with limited time or interest :D:drinkup:

    bare horns.jpg

    bolted on.jpg


  2. JRS Landscaping

    JRS Landscaping Senior Member
    Messages: 104

    looks good....how many bolts on each side hold it? hope you used grade 8? did you run a cross bar between the mounts?
  3. vtjeeper

    vtjeeper Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 14

    you can't see all the bolts in the pics, but it's bolted like the fisher plates. one bolt through the whole frame and tow hook, one bolt through the tow hook and frame behind that and a short bolt through the other side of the frame. then two bolts at the back of the mount all the way through the frame. fisher does not go all the way through the frame on the back but gives you a short bolt with a handle welded onto it that you are supposed to stick up in side the frame and poke out through the hole. fisher also specifies grade 5 bolts. I did some searching on here a while back and there is some discussion on bolt grades. no cross bar between my mounts or fisher's mounts for my truck, I thought about putting one or two cross pieces in but I didn't yet. I might pull them off this summer and put a couple other little pieces of steel on to help brace it and then wire wheel it and paint them, they are bare steel right now.
  4. vtjeeper

    vtjeeper Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 14

    I guess I don't have very good pics showing the whole things, but you can kindof see here I put a strip of steel perpendicular to the wide vertical main part, sortof triangulated back from the bottom of the mount all the way back to the bottom of the frame rail. the back plate is only on the inside of the frame, like fisher's. I'll put a pic of fisher's plates to compare. fiaher also has you use the original tow hook bolts


  5. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    if you went threw and pinch bolted the bracket to the frame then that bolt will never stay tight unless you install a sleave for the boxed frame to pinch against.

    otherwise looks good. i would round off the 90* exposed edges tho. you can do some major damage to proporty or your self when workin under the rig with those points of death.
  6. vtjeeper

    vtjeeper Junior Member
    from vermont
    Messages: 14

    yeah thats the way I bolted it and it seemed like I would squish the frame before it really got up to a good torque. I may just do like fisher and weld a thing to a short bolt and pinch one side of the frame this summer. I thought about putting in a sleeve but thats way too much work so I went this way for now. I also used nylock nuts.

    I also don't like the impaler corner on the back and will probably shop that down a little. thanks