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Made in China, oh the regrets

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by hadley-plow-guy, Dec 23, 2007.

  1. hadley-plow-guy

    hadley-plow-guy Member
    Messages: 31

    I recently replaced the axle u joints on my V30 1 ton dump, and get this, the drivers side u joint broke in two. Thats right, into two pieces. Under normal plowing conditions. I wasn't ramping it up and spinning the wheels or abusing it in any way. It simply snapped.

    I have never had a u joint snap into two pieces. It cost me $150 for a new axle because it rounded out the yoke before I could get her stopped. A $15 dollar part cost me 4 hrs and $150. So after I got the new axle shaft I went and got the Dana/Spicer forged u joints for $50 each. Lesson learned on my part, no more made in China's for me. I will spend the extra money from now on.

    Anybody else had a similar problem?
  2. LoneCowboy

    LoneCowboy PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,760

    Made in China == unsafe JUNK
  3. StratfordPusher

    StratfordPusher Senior Member
    Messages: 960

    Made of Lead

    Perhaps the China u-joint was made from lead..... seems they have a abundance of lead to dispose of in North America.... they put it in everything they make for us... lol

    Just say no to China.......

  4. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    the only ujoints i run are spicer life/forged series non greaseable . the rest of them have turned to junk.

    few good points to look for in a quality ujoint.

    #1 lots of small needle bearings. the more the better load holding .

    #2 non greaseable ujoint. and check it with a pic or punch. remove a cap
    and see if you can go all the way across the joint threw the center hole.
    if not then its a solid joint and good to go. if the cross/body has a buldge
    for a zerk fitting but not drilled its a good bet its a cheepy.

    #3 the more you pay the better. and lots of studys and writeups have proven
    that a good quality non greasable joint will last longer than a greasable joint.

    #4 propor install and setup. take a file and clean up the clip seat areas on the
    shaft yokes were the clip will sit when on the cap.

    #5 dont press in the caps that might bend the yoke ears. and line up might be
    impossible and joint life shortened big time.

    #6 when all installed check to see if the joint floats free in range of motion.
    i bet it dosnt it has drag. take a hammer and hit the side of the yoke ears
    just past the caps going to the shaft. this will releve the pressure or bindup.
    this will let the joint work much more freely and last a lot longer.

    i have done this for years and not had one fail yet that i know of other than just worn out.
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You get what you pay for holds true for most anything, including U-joints...and especially in your case hadley-P-G... the genuine Spicer's are the only joint to run in your Dana 60. I've tried them all but use nothing but Spicers in the 60's...
  6. welded wrenches

    welded wrenches Senior Member
    Messages: 177

    china parts = terrorist

    the surgeon general has determined that operating a vehicle assembled with parts from china is hazzardus to your heath and may cause low wallet weight.GO GO GO SPICER U-JOINTS MADE IN USA p.s. send all that china junk back to china at thier expense and have them put that crap in thier landfill dump period.
  7. hadley-plow-guy

    hadley-plow-guy Member
    Messages: 31

    You guys are all right and if I didn't need to replace the old ones in such a hurry I would have gotten the Spicers in earlier. I just didn't think they would fall apart on the first time out.

    I had the Spicers on order but would not get here on time, so I went with the cheapo's. BIG mistake. I should have gone with a made in the USA u joint until I got the Spicers.

    Lesson learned, don't go cheap it will cost you in the end. They should put a picture of a broken u joint on all of the boxes. You know like the warnings they put on cig packs sort of like a surgeon generals warning.

    And yes I think it was made of lead, lol. China buys all of our quality recycled steel and turns it into crap and sells it back to us. How the hell can that happen unless they are throwing in a bunch of saw dust shavings with the castings.

    To hell with China and all the crap that comes from there.
  8. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    I've had the exact same thing, broken axle and all, but I don't know where the joint was made, it came with the truck and lasted the first year or so. Replaced with Spicer axle and joint and never a problem again.

    As for regular rear U-joints, I've come to the conclusion that no matter what I use in my 4x4 dually dumps that they all seem to be disposable, regardless of brand, I get no more than a year or two from them before they start getting sloppy. Always catch them before they break though, thankfully. The one truck is the worst for that, but I blame that POS Powertrax Locker....

    I've used Spicers, Neapco (made in usa), chinese, greaseable, sealed for life, installed myself, installed by pro's.... I dunno....!

    They're cheap enough though, especially if I change them myself... I just add it into the maintenance... :p