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Location for Reverse Spot Lights

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by canoebuildah, Dec 8, 2015.


Rear Spot Light Mount Location

  1. Under bumper

    25 vote(s)
  2. Above bumper

    9 vote(s)
  3. Top of bedrail

    4 vote(s)
  4. Backrack

    15 vote(s)
  5. Other

    12 vote(s)
  1. canoebuildah

    canoebuildah Senior Member
    Messages: 132

    Last winter, I installed two LED spotlights at the opposite ends of my rear bumper. I was hoping to get the light as close to the area I wanted lit up. Unfortunately, they were covered with snow most of the time and useless.

    I am considering moving them up to the top of the bed rail at the rear of the truck. I worry that they will be exposed to being hit when loading wood, ladders, etc into the bed.

    My other thought (which I have seen on other trucks), is to mount to my Backrack. I think that will be too far back from the ground and put most of the light into my bed.

    What has worked best for you?
  2. k1768

    k1768 Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 556

    Previously I'd always mounted them below the bumper and they'd always get damaged, even mounting them close to the hitch (my thought was the hitch would help protect them). On this truck I have them mounted to my backrack and they've been fine so far. True the bed will block the light from getting the area closest to the truck, but you usually can't see those areas that well in your mirrors anyway.
    If I wanted anymore light, I'd seriously consider flush mounting into the bumper. I've seen some of them, very slick look, great positioning, since they're flush it also limits the buildup of snow on the lens.
  3. coke813

    coke813 Senior Member
    Messages: 129

    I had two of these lights mounted below the bumper, just on either side of my hitch. I bent a little steel plate around them to protect them from contact with things.

    They worked great for light, I loved having them, but yes they did get covered in snow. LEDs won't create heat, but these were warm enough to melt snow, unfortunately, if I parked with slush still around them, it would freeze into ice. They only lasted about a year though, since I was bound to hit them on something like leaving a driveway. I ended up breaking the glass lens. After the second set was damaged, I just quit using them. So my only advice it to find something cheap that you can replace if/ when you damage it. Having them down below the bumper exposes them to all the road hazards/ splashing etc. But I didn't like the idea of mounting them to the top rails of the bed like some I have seen.
  4. canoebuildah

    canoebuildah Senior Member
    Messages: 132

    These are the lights I purchased from Amazon. Cheap enough that I am not too worried about the eventual breakage.

    I am leaning towards the Backrack as it will make the wiring easier, most protected location, and add light to my bed which will also be helpful as I use my truck for responding to Fire Dept calls.
  5. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,440

    You will be unhappy with them in your backrack. It will just bouce back when snowing. Keep them low. I made this a while ago using cheapo fog lights triggered by the reverse circut but fed via relay. You need the heat to melt. This has a backup beeper in it as well as a third brake light and running lights. I can control the beeper if I want it to work or not when I back up. I have a build on this somewhere here. You can see the build in my signature (home made hitch light).

    Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
  6. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 9,883

    Lights on the bumper area never seem to last long.
    They get covered with snow, get damage from backing into snow banks, kicked,
    etc, etc, and broken..

    high Up on the back rack is the best place.
    How you aim them plays a big roll in how much glare there will be.
    Use spot lights, not flood lights the wide beam causes glare.
    Then use yellow when possibel, not white light to limit glare.

    Then aim the light correctly.
    The rule is you want to look over or under the beam of light. it's when you look threw the beam is where you get a lot of glare from.
  7. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,440

    Been running my set up for over 5 seasons now. Same lights and I bash a lot of stuff. I hit snow and ice banks, yes snow does get in the grates but melts away after a couple backups.
  8. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 9,883

    If I ran a set up like yours it would be packed with snow & ice, sure it would melt out after being in the shop for a few hrs.

    I back threw a lot of windrows and piles at the end of drives. but that's just me....

    it gets so cold after a storm here that even head lights get ice build up around the edges.
  9. canoebuildah

    canoebuildah Senior Member
    Messages: 132

    I agree. I plow mostly narrow gravel roads and always backing into snowbanks to turn around and maneuver around trees and buildings.

    And I do not have heated parking for my trucks so it is always outside, exposed to the elements.
  10. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,440

    LOL. I had to read it twice. I thought you stated "bash through windows"
  11. ScubaSteve728

    ScubaSteve728 Senior Member
    Messages: 499

    Here is my setup 2 square led work lights on the back rack which are new this summer as well as projector reverse bulbs in the tail lights and led cargo lights. Also have the led back-up buddy in the receiver which I have been using for a few years and i love and swear by it. The backup buddy is holding up well over these 4 new England winters I have not had any trouble with it at all. You can see they are aimed low putting the light right where I need and want it. I will probably not use the lights on the back rack much even though they are very bright I believe they will reflect off the snow too much.

    backup lights.JPG
  12. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 9,883

    Then If glar is a issue, go to yellow lights to the rear.

    Brighter isn't always better.
  13. johnnywaz

    johnnywaz Senior Member
    Messages: 206

    I like'em as low as possible. The ones on the rear bumper I leave juuussst loose enough they fold over if I back into a pile. I use, KAWELL 42W, 60Deg flood off amazon. $47 for a pair delivered. I also use KAWELL 18W 60Deg flood ($20 pair) in the front to light up between my bumper and plow and off to the sides. When the plow is lifted up you also get light from undeneath.


    Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
  14. Mark Oomkes

    Mark Oomkes PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,251

    On the truck.
  15. canoebuildah

    canoebuildah Senior Member
    Messages: 132

    My snow must be different up here because it coats the entire rear end of my truck when plowing. That setup does not work for me.
  16. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,392

    So I'm wondering what the point of the ones on the front are? I read what you said, but I'm still trying to understand the point of them?
  17. johnnywaz

    johnnywaz Senior Member
    Messages: 206

    Primarily they are used as fog lights when my plow is off. But they also offer extra light to the sides of my plow because of the wide beam angle. They also project under the plow when transporting down the road for extra light. If you have factory fog lights then what i have done is pretty pointless. It works for me though. I do wish i had mounted the front lights even lower but they work where they are.
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
  18. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,392

    I have factory fog lights, and have never used them.
  19. johnnywaz

    johnnywaz Senior Member
    Messages: 206

    I respect that. Different strokes for different folks.
  20. jonniesmooth

    jonniesmooth Senior Member
    Messages: 296

    On one truck I used toggle bolts and put them right on the tailgate, wired into the back up lights.

    My new plan is to mount the lights the same way, but use a pin to hold the light to the bracket, so they can be removed easily and make a wire harness to go to the RV plug. We wired the 12V on the plug through a switch in the cab, so we could use it to run the spreader.

    Then they will come on with the back up lights or can be turned on manually.

    they would be removed when the spreader is put on, they have their own lighting mounted to them