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Light bar problem

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by sodking, Dec 20, 2005.

  1. sodking

    sodking Member
    Messages: 45

    I have a light bar, two rotating lights under an amber dome, that plugs into the power port....The plug get sooo hot it melts. I have replaced the entire cord up to the light motors themselves and it still gets hot. The light bar is about 4 years old....

    any thoughts....
  2. lawnmedic

    lawnmedic Senior Member
    Messages: 703

    I would make sure your using at lease a 14ga. wire. Anything smaller than that will get hot and will shorten the life of the motors and bulbs...
  3. foggyjr5

    foggyjr5 Member
    Messages: 77

    Heavier Gauge

    Yes i would make sure you have 14 ga, if not 12, but one other thing that might help is to make sure that there is a fuse, and also i would suggest to hard wire it
  4. sodking

    sodking Member
    Messages: 45

    The wire is 14 ga I believe and I have a 20amp fuse inline.
  5. WBH Grounds

    WBH Grounds Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    I'd just get a new one. Maybe go with a Back Rack and a permanet mount light. Thats what I've got on my truck and I've never had a problem. Check out strobedirect.com thats where I've bought all my lights from. They seem like alright people.:cool:
  6. massbowtie

    massbowtie Member
    Messages: 97

    motor on its way out ?

    it could be the motor on its way out.when their on their way they tend to draw more juice and cause the melt down.another thing you can try is take it aprt and look at the mechanical gears or whatever runs the rotator.see if its dragging on the motor and try lubin it up. should be easy enough to do.dont know what the light is worth but you could get a new motor for it too. good luck
  7. BayviewLawn

    BayviewLawn Member
    Messages: 67

    The heat youe getting is from too much amp draw.That light should draw about 7-9 amps.Excess amp draw is caused by either a motor going bad or more than likely a rotator that is causing too much friction.Disengage the motors from the rotatorsand make sure they move freely.If not correct why they dont.They do need to be lubed once in awhile.White lirhium grease works well.
    You could also try disconecting one motor at a time and see if while one is disconnected does the wire still get hot thus showing you wich motor is the problem.

    Putting a fuse in line or hardwiring wont solve your problem.The fuse will protect your truck circuit and hard wiring will make it look neater.

    Going to a heavier wire isnt the answer either.14 wire that it was supplied with is plenty heavy enough if its working properly.Heavier wire will just mask the real problem and probably cause bigger problems somewhere else in the circuit.
  8. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Well, yes, and no. Bayviewlawn has the best answer- the factory supplied wire is suffecient for the current draw the lightbar in good working condition draws.

    However, my Federal Signal twin halogen rotator bar has heated the wire uncomfortably since new. 14Ga into a 20amp power port.

    Perminantly mounting it isn't really a solution- all you're doing is removing the power port from the circuit- still 14Ga wire. If you then change the wire to 12 Ga when you perminantly wire it what's the difference from just changint the wire to 12 ga and leaving it magnet? The Back-rac has no value in the equasion when you think about it.

    I think the issue is the bars are supplied with the most cost effective wire size that will do the job- 14ga. 12 would have been a better choice but cost savings dictated the 14. Check the current draw for your light bar- if it's excess of what it should be I would look at the motors as was mentioned. If it's normal current draw I would simply rewire it with 12 GA wire AND replace the ciggar plug on the end with something better suited to higher current and heat. Add another power port under the dash wired with 12Ga also. In other words remove the power port from the equasion and replace it with a higher current connector so you still have removability but solve the problem.

    That's my plan of attack too. It hasn't melted anything yet in mine, but it gets too hot for my liking, and the current is right around normal.
  9. sodking

    sodking Member
    Messages: 45

    I suspect the motors as well. I did lube up the pinion gears hoping that would help, it did not. My next course is to replace the motors.

    As for replacing the whole bar...yes that is an option but I have fun tinkering with something and getting it to work. It could also be that I am a cheap bugger (just ask my employees:) )