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LED's not working....working..UGH...not working

Discussion in 'Strobe Lighting' started by Chandlerarms, Dec 22, 2011.

  1. Chandlerarms

    Chandlerarms Senior Member
    Messages: 118

    So I finally got the wireing set up for my Strobes-N-More E series Hide-a-ways. At first - Nothing, then they started to work. I added a little length to the "power (red)" line, and nothing. I am pretty sure I crimped the added line right, so I am not sure what might be the issue. I am useing a fuse tap if that makes a difference.

    Here are some pics of the switch. I think it turned out clean.

    photo (1).jpg

    photo (2).jpg

    photo (3).jpg
  2. KL&M Snow Div.

    KL&M Snow Div. PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,616

    I'd start by bypassing the switch. Just hardwire and see if they come on. If they don't try to hook them directly to a always on 12v source, such as the truck battery. Still with the switch bypassed. If it works when its hooked to the battery you'll need to find a new power source. If its a bad switch simply replace the switch. Short of that I'm not sure what else it could be as I'm not a strobe expert. Hopefully this will get you started though
  3. Chandlerarms

    Chandlerarms Senior Member
    Messages: 118

    Thanks for the reply - When you say "hard wire" how would I exactly do that? I understand the idea of hard wire, but not sure exactly to not screw something up? Also - when you say hook to the battery - hook it directly to it? I'd have to add some wire to reach into the engine compartment.

    I have a few more questions:

    1. Right how I have the power attached to a 3 amp fuse. Can I add it to a 10 amp?
    2. I have the grounds temporarily just attached to a bolt near the break peddle. Where
    is the best spot to put the ground wires in the cab are?

    thanks in advance.
  4. Mems

    Mems Senior Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 202

    There could be a multitude of problems with this last post so lets try each one and see if we can eliminate and fix the problem.

    First. You need a damn good ground no matter what. Find a spot that isn't accessed by mud, water, and crap from your boots or close to where moisture can get to to create rust. Grind/scrape away as much paint in this area exposing bare metal. Once you attach your ground to this however you decide to do it, (I usually use a self tapping screw), then throw some dielectric grease to it to prevent rust. Many many unsolved issues can be had and resolved by just having a good ground. Take the effort here.

    Next, run a piece of 16 gauge or so wire directly from your power source to the battery and bypass any switch that you might have in the system. Directly wiring to the battery (no need to tuck the wire away as its only temporary, just get it to the battery) as explained above will provide constant current to your power unit and for the short period of time that you will have it hooked up will allow you to see if your switch might be bad and make sure if there is a fuse in this power section off of the power source that it isnt blown. Check and see if all works. If this works then wire in your switch and make sure that your inline fuse is in as well and make sure that it isnt blown. If it were me id put a brand new one in just for kicks. If it doesnt, take a closer look at your power source.

    At this point you need to figure out which size fuse to use for the amount of draw on your system. 3 amps seems a bit low to me but they are only LED's so it is quite possible. How many LED lights do you have wired up and what is the wattage equivalence of your system. Knowing this will allow you to figure out how big of an amp draw you will have and how big of a fuse you need.

    Try this stuff first and see where it leads you.
  5. KL&M Snow Div.

    KL&M Snow Div. PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,616

    Yes as mentioned make sure you use a very good ground point. I usually ground to the firewall or a seat bolt. le4life has you going in the right direction on checking your switch. As far as amp draw and such, I've got all my leds on one switch, a total of four lights running off a three amp switch. A note of advice as well, this is just me though. When you install the power wire, put it in some sort of loom, the last thing you need is the power wire rubbing bare and created an arc against something metal. In theory it should blow the fuse but I still don't like to take the risk. Another option to look at rather than doing a fuse box tap, is tapping into a keyed or constant power source and putting an inline fuse right next to it. You always want the fuse as close to your power source as possible. Hope this helps a little.
  6. MoparPlowJockey

    MoparPlowJockey Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 31

    Since you are using Hide-a-ways I wouldn't use crimp connectors. Any connection you are going to make that is outside of the cab should be soldered and sealed with shrink tubing. This will prevent moisture and corrosion. It also ensures and good reliable connection. Grounding is very important. Fine a good metal to metal spot. If you can ground back to the battery that would be best. Each one of the lights draws 1 amp or less so 20 gauge wire is more than enough. You can use a 7.5 amp fuse. Your fusing for the wire not the amps of the light. I have not used the strobe n more hide-a-ways but most have to be connected to the flash modules first. If you tried them out before you connected to the flash module you may have damaged the light. Your switch needs a good ground source as well. Your pulling power from the battery so you might as well ground back to the battery. If you haven't I would invest in a multi-meter. Craftsman has decent ones for less than $50.
  7. Chandlerarms

    Chandlerarms Senior Member
    Messages: 118

    MoparPlowJockey- For the cable running into the cab, I used solder & ran it thru the loom from my hitch spreader. I only used crimp connectors inside the cab (they were water proof- used a heat gun to shrink). I will first try properly grounding the unit. What do you mean - It has to be connected to the flash moduels first? Not sure what you mean by that?
  8. dieseltech

    dieseltech Senior Member
    Messages: 273

    He shouldnt have to wory about any seperate flash modules with his hideways. I believe they have the module already connected in line with the bulb
  9. Chandlerarms

    Chandlerarms Senior Member
    Messages: 118

    Turns out it was the ground! Found a spot above the break pedal and bare steel - Did the trick! I appreciate everyones help!
  10. BossPlow2010

    BossPlow2010 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,069

    Wait! wire the ground to the negative battery post for the best results!:mechanic:
  11. changexlt

    changexlt Junior Member
    from ND
    Messages: 23

    Is it possible for you to get a day and night video?
  12. Chandlerarms

    Chandlerarms Senior Member
    Messages: 118

    Bossplow2010- sorry, but is that a joke or not? If it's not, could you explain?

    Changexit- I will try to post some video. Stay tuned.
  13. Chandlerarms

    Chandlerarms Senior Member
    Messages: 118

  14. BossPlow2010

    BossPlow2010 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,069

    It's not a joke, you want to wire to the negative battery terminal for best results. You may get away with it, but I recommend wiring it to the negative post. :nod:
  15. Strobesnmore

    Strobesnmore Senior Member
    Messages: 413

    As long as the factory ground strap is not damaged you can ground the lights to the frame or any good metal point connected to the frame. There is really no benefit in going to the battery.
  16. Chandlerarms

    Chandlerarms Senior Member
    Messages: 118

    It seems to be working well (so far), so I am going to leave well alone. Does it look right based on the videos I posted? I know it's not ideal setting but it should give a comparison for someone with these lights (or similar)?