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lacks power to raise in snow banks and huge draw on truck

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by triumph616, Dec 12, 2009.

  1. triumph616

    triumph616 Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    I have a western pro plow on a 1992 chevy 3/4 ton truck that I purchased together this year. I put a new 1,000 cold cranking amp battery on it, checked and cleaned all of the major grounds, had the motor tested and the alternator tested, but when you key the plow, the heater drops, the lights dim, the plow slows, and will not lift in the banks. The voltage holds, but drops when plow keyed from 14 to 9 volts. When the truck is just sitting there th e voltage gauge still drops, but the plow moves easilly in all directions. I am at a frustrated loss. Some say you need 2 batterys, some say bigger alternator, some say both. I never needed these things in the past and it seems the old owner would have added them in the past. It seems to me more like something is not functioning properly. I am sure they help, but do I need one or both of these. (2nd battery or high output alternator} Please give me some input.
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2009
  2. Racer593

    Racer593 Member
    Messages: 71

    Sounds like what mine was doing last year. Addeda new ground and instantly eliminated the problem.

  3. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Yes yes, check the ground..Add another one from the engine block to the vehicle frame...
  4. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    take a set of jumper cables and ground from the batt to the plow motor negative. any change?.if yes, bad ground. if no, hook up positive to motor positive. does it run? run good?
    if no, bad motor causing excess drain.
  5. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    The winding or brushes could be going in the motor.

    This might be out in left field. Did you check your charging system under load (lights, heater, radio)??

    Have the battery/batteries check for bad cells???
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2009
  6. ppandr

    ppandr Senior Member
    Messages: 619

    I wouldn't expect any of mine to do that without serious draw either. Why are you lifting in the "banks" anyway?
  7. poncho62

    poncho62 Senior Member
    Messages: 431

    I just had a similar problem with my Meyers....angled fine, no lift......turned out the lift cylinder bottom seal was shot...yours may be 1/2 shot.

    as for the power draw, those electric motors do draw a lot.
  8. triumph616

    triumph616 Junior Member
    Messages: 2

    So far I've added a new ground cable from the battery to the frame, from the frame to the engine, ground all of the surfaces and replaced the bolts, ground every ground under the hood and no change. The alternator test good at 105 amps. Big enough? I added jumper cables to another running vehicle and everything functions great. What does this mean?
  9. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,415

    An amp draw test on the plow motor wouldn't hurt, but ALL plow trucks should have a big alternator and two batteries. Just my .02.
  10. tom.807

    tom.807 Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    believe it or not but 2 500 amp batterys have more reserve than a 1000 cca battery. hi cca batterys have lots of initial juice but little in reserve. plates are stacked close together and thicker but do not store as well either, and usually have a shorter life span. you should have duall batterys just for the extra reserve almost a necessity on a plow truck. if and when you have battery issues mount duall 700 to 800cca batterys, voltage should never be an issue after that. all connections have to be good and you got to perform a current draw test on that motor
  11. Dissociative

    Dissociative 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,066

    you answered your own question.

    you need more battery and more alt. like you added when you connected 2 trucks.
  12. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Have you ever heard of Optima battery? Auto zones sell them and some other auto parts store as well.. They don't use "acid", they use a jell. The recharging rate is quicker. As for alternator, you should have a higher amp alternator.

    here is a link where I purchase my alternator

    http://www.db-starter-alternator.co...H OUTPUT ALTERNATOR 90 91 92 93 94 95 7861-7

    If you decide to buy the alternator, you will also need to buy this (Fuse)
    Here is the link for the fuse

    http://www.db-starter-alternator.co...H OUTPUT ALTERNATOR FUSE BLOCK WIRING KIT 101

    . I have two batteries and a 200 amp alt (that the first link). On the second battery,I use it for the plow, and plow accessories(fog light, emergency lights, switch box.) hook to it terminal strip.One side of the strip, I have a 10 gage wire coming off the bat terminal from the alt, to one side of the strip, and another 10 gage wire from the battery to the other side of the strip, with my plow accessories.

    Probably your going to ask a question, or say to your self, "that don't make any logical sense, I does. By doing that, when you use the accessories, it charging off the second battery just like the plow. It send a signal to the alt. The alt starts to charge the battery.The wire coming off the alt battery terminal is call a "charging wire". Also keep in mind, the second battery should have a top and side posts. Side post are for the wires coming from the first battery, and the top post are for the plow only, not the accessories. Remember the accessories have their own "terminal strip. Terminal strips you can find at any auto parts store. I us the one that is made of brass.

    here a picture of the alt


    and the kit you will have to use


    Very simple to install.........If you go to the site ( for the fuse second link) they show you how to hook it up with pictures..


    Last edited: Dec 12, 2009
  13. kbsnow

    kbsnow Senior Member
    from Chicago
    Messages: 146

    I have a 91 GMC with 5.7 and a 105amp alternator. I use dual batteries hooked up the following way.

    pos to pos, and neg of second battery to alternator bracket which is metal, not aluminum. All of these cables are 3ga. I then run a 6ga cable from the charging post of the alternator to the positive post on the second battery. I run a Western 7.6 pro with the old cable control pump, and I have a tailgate spreader. I never seem to drop lower than 10 or 11 amps on the gauge.

    No matter what your set up is, I think all accs. (htr, lights) will slow or dim when running the pump.
  14. twinman326

    twinman326 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,683

    Your are using a lot....I would change the alt to a bigger amp. The alt in post #12 is your alt.

    As for the accessories, using a terminal strip/busbar separates. Using the "bat" wire from the alt to one end of the strip, then the wire from the pos battery to the other end of the strip, will tell the alt to charge when too much amp is drawn..Remember, u must use a "side post/ top post" for the plow..Side post will carry the wires from the first battery..the top post are for the "plow" only.Having a "dual battery side/top posts" are better.I also put a groung wire from the engine block to the frame
    Just my opinion

    When I first started plowing, I had a 94 gmc jimmy with a 5.7 vortex engine, uni plow 6'5". I did have one problem (beside the same problem your having now), engine speed. At the end of the snow season, the engine was losing power not generating enough RPM's, losing power.. After checking everything, I end up taking out the EGR valve. The port was so clog because of the stopping and going, forward and backwards, it end up clogging up the port..Took the multi port off, clean the EGR port, and egr it self...Install new gaskets, and fuel filter. I will tell you, that jimmy had more power, compared to when I first brought it.......

    Here a link to a web site you should check. It explains how electric (12V) really works.. It has ideas you can use...Please check it out..

    Check this out same web site..This is regarding "headlights"
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2009