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k2500 light duty

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Willy-D8, Sep 16, 2005.

  1. Willy-D8

    Willy-D8 Member
    Messages: 47

    I just purchased a 95 k2500 ld extra cab with a 7.5 mm1 fisher with the 6.5 diesel engine with an automatic. Not sure if it is the 4l60e or heavier 4l80e?The truck only has 73,000 miles and is overall in decent shape. The front fenders have pinholes of rot through and the seats are hammered but the truck drove down the road well and shifted well. I have about 6 residential and two commercial small lots so i'm thinking a set of wings would help a lot. Please tell me anything to look out for or any advise for keeping this truck in good mechanical condition.
  2. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,257

    I would have the alternator and batteries tested. These parts are cheap and so many guys are down at the beggining of the year because of them. I would say average life for batteries and alternator on a full time plow truck( not just a hobby) is 3 years.
  3. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    If you are curious about the tranny....

    The 4L60e is a derivative of the older 700R4--basically some internal updates and an electronically controlled valve body. If I'm not mistaken, it still uses the 700 style oil pan--almost perfectly square.

    The 4L80e is for all intents and purposes an old school TH400 with an overdrive added--very beefy for a pickup truck. It likely uses a similar pan to the TH400--odd shaped and basically undescribable! :p

    You should be able to look up the pan gasket online or in a catalog, they show pictures to help you ID your tranny.

    If the tranny shifts well and the fluid looks 'aged' but not badly burnt or full of particulates, consider a fluid and filter change, possibly even a pressurized flush. If it doesn't have one already, add a tranny cooler.

    A yearly oil spray on the underside of the body will durastically slow down the rust, but once it is in that is all you can do shy of repairing/replacing the panel.
  4. neetchracer

    neetchracer Junior Member
    Messages: 26

    If it has 8 lugs, it has a 4L80-E. MOST all 6.5's have 4L80-E's, but not all.
  5. Willy-D8

    Willy-D8 Member
    Messages: 47

    Thank you for the feed back. It is the light duty with 6 lugs. I won't understand putting that 6.5 liter in front of a 4l60e. My 97 1500 2wd w a 4.3 v6 has a 4l60e in it. When i pick this truck up i will find out what tranny it has. I can't see putting a v6 and a diesel on the same transmissions though.

    Any other tips for this particular truck? How about the 4wd actuators? I've read other post of problems with them on these trucks?
  6. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    What I know about the 6.5 is the pump mounted driver (PMD, sometimes called the FSD), is prone to failure. It is an electronic unit mounted to the injector pump, down in the intake valley where all the heat is. First thing you need to do is take the pretty turbo power engine cover off that holds all the heat in. The PMD is usually good for over 100k, but when it starts running, bad, stalling and hard starting and smoking, thats what it usually is. GM warrantees the injector pump to 11 years or 120k miles. Normally when the PMD fails, the dealer will replace the whole pump because they want to get paid $2500+, rather than a few hundred for the PMD, whether it is warranty or you paying. So make sure you get the ECM scanned independantly, it will show a code for the PMD, not the pump. I would expect the trans you have is a 4l80e, Every plow truck I have ever had I install a seperate trans cooler with an electric fan and a gauge. If you are plowing without a gauge you will not believe how fast the trans will get red hot. All I do is flip the fan on for a few minutes and never let it get into the red. You can also install a temp sender to do it automatically. Another trick I learned is to plow in four low. The trans doesnt work half as hard, and I can attest to the fact that the temps run much lower. Of course, it isnt always feasible to use four low, but I try to do it when I can. The 4l80e is NOT recommended to use synthetic oil, you are supposed to use regular dex with an additive called Lube Gard, available from the dealer and probably can find it online too. The 6.5 has a bad rep when compared to the Cummins, Duramax or Powerjoke, but it is only because it is not intercooled and is indirect injection, it is still a good motor in its own right. I love mine, 140k and still pounding on it. The 6.5 has much higher compression than most diesel pickup engines, which is why you MUST never use starting fluid (ether) if it wont start. It WILL break your motor, generally burns holes in the pistons. The high compression is to aid in cold starts, if it doesnt start when really cold check your glow plug relay or fuel heater element. Good luck!
  7. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    The V6 version uses less clutch packs internally than the V8 version. Likey, the diesel uses at least as many as the the V8, maybe more...?
  8. Willy-D8

    Willy-D8 Member
    Messages: 47

    The dealer claimed that the previous owner had the injector pump replaced on the truck under warentee. I don't know how to determine this but should get servise records with this truck.
    I'm going to go through the front end either this fall or next spring whenever I am fincially able as the front must be worn out from carrying a plow and a diesel engine on basically a 1/2 ton front end. Everything seems tight though. We'll lube it up well and see how i goes for a while.