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Just installed Snoway ST .... Float and Down Pressure Questions..

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Flatulentvandal, Nov 6, 2010.

  1. Flatulentvandal

    Flatulentvandal Member
    Messages: 50

    I just got my Snoway ST mounted on my Sport Trac last night (only took 6 hours!)... Everything seems to work as it should... Lights, Remote, Up, left, right...


    The plow drops VERY slowly in float mode... How best to address this?

    Also, the Down pressure, when activated pulsates loudly.... I have never seen a plow with DP before, so I don't know how it is supposed to operate properly... Is this correct? Is it supposed to pulsate?

    I cannot really tell if its applying downward pressure by looking at it... It looks like the cylinder is moving outward, pushing the blade down, but hard to tell....

    Any advice appreciated..
  2. JeepTJ

    JeepTJ Senior Member
    Messages: 225

    Good luck with the ST!!. They're a great little plow. Watch the gap between your front fender and the top of your tire. It should increase by 1/2 to 1 inch when in DP mode.

    I have trouble with snow piling up over the top of the 18 inch moldboard. You may want to add some type of deflector to "increase" the height of the blade.

  3. hydro_37

    hydro_37 PlowSite Veteran
    from iowa
    Messages: 3,790

    they do go down slowly
    the clicking is the DP cycling....it has a pressure relief in it that clicks
  4. Flatulentvandal

    Flatulentvandal Member
    Messages: 50

    Hydro: Does it sound like I need to address this? Or is it your opinion that its working properly?
  5. MileHigh

    MileHigh PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,827

    It's normal.

    If it's working..you should be able to tell. When the plow is in DP, it takes a bit longer to start the raising of the plow from the ground...kinda like a chain lift plow waiting for the slack to tighten before lifting.. And it should also lift up on your front end a bit when activated.
  6. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    Ok three separate items here;

    First; Snoway but a very small orifice in one year. They received complaints they drop too fast an went a little too far the other direction. There is an orifice that can be changed to increase the drop speed. Snoway received complaints about the dropping too fast so they decreased the orifice size, went a little overboard IMO. The old orifice use to be .097 and they went to a .043 Before we deliver them (26 series) we remove the orifice and drill it out to 3/32 (.093) or go to your Snoway dealer and order a orifice kit.

    part # 11 on page ten http://www.snoway.com/service/Parts%.../97101026g.pdf

    Second; does your down pressure hammer (cycle repeatedly?) if so does it drift down slowly when it is raised? if it does not drift down than you need to address the Pressure Relief in the DP system. Check back with the results once you check and we'll go from there.

    Third; if there is a delay in lifting you probably need a bushing kit or lift links depending on what is worn. The lift on any Direct lift plow should be instantaneous, there is a slight delay with the wireless units. I will get you a bushing kit number if you find you need them
  7. Flatulentvandal

    Flatulentvandal Member
    Messages: 50

    I do not believe it is lifting up my front end the DP is activated...
    However, after measuring, my front end is only sagging 1/2" when the plow is raised... As opposed to when its on the ground in float....
    Should the DP be lifting the front end higher than where it sits with plow resting down? (in effect, pushing the front end up?)

    Also, it does not take longer for the plow to come up from float or DP, both about the same...
  8. Flatulentvandal

    Flatulentvandal Member
    Messages: 50

    I just posted this (52 sec.) video on Youtube to give a better idea of how slowly the plow drops, and to illustrate how the DP is operating....


    Check it out and let me know what you think.....
  9. toby4492

    toby4492 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,513

    I would definately get the orifice kit the Basher suggests. Also your DP is not operating properly as it should not continually cycle that way.
  10. festerw

    festerw Senior Member
    Messages: 986

    yea that's not right and the thunking sound with DP engaged would be the "hammering" basher was talking about.
  11. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    Yeah that's what we call hammer:nod: Ok, first change the fluid, run a couple quarts of Meyer Hyda-flush though it. Then drain it and refill with premium snowplow fluid. It is possible that this will fix some or all of your issues, it is amazing what a good cleaning will do. Even if it does not solve your issues it is the first thing you should do to any "new to you" product.

    If it is still too slow you will need to change/drill the orifice.

    Here is the service manual page 8 describes the orifice and how to service it.

    http://www.snoway.com/service/Monarch Repair/MonarchRepairManual.pdf

    This is your parts service manual


    pages # 15/16 contains the correct drawing of your hydraulic unit. The orifice is # 16 in the drawing. You can either buy the kit (#96106105) or drill it out. if you drill it DO NOT do it in place, you must first remove it from the pump. You can drill it with a 1/16 drill to start but most people prefer the speed that 5/64 or 3/32 provide.

    The hammering is normally cause by one of two things, a bad lift ram, most often seen as a slow drift down when raised, a hammering under DP and lack of DP. The other is a stuck, tired or improperly adjusted DP pressure relief (PR). If the lift ram stays up then you need to remove and clean the PR. Remove and clean it ( #11 on pages #15/16), if you disassemble it count the number of turns required to remove the internal adjuster so you can return it to is original position. After all the cleaning if the unit is still hammering you will need to adjust the PR. First remove the cap, then turn the adjuster in a quarter turn at a time until the hammering stops. Adjust it with the DP turn off for the best results.
  12. JeepTJ

    JeepTJ Senior Member
    Messages: 225

    I forgot to mention in my previous post: You may want to write the word JACK in bright letters across the horizontal part of the light bar. You should write it so you can read it from the cab of your truck. It wouldn't hurt to also write it on the plastic cover of the pump assembly. It's a good reminder to lock the jack up in place before you drive off. BTDT.:realmad:

  13. Flatulentvandal

    Flatulentvandal Member
    Messages: 50

    As a matter of fact.... While inspecting the plow a little closer after I got it home... I noticed the latch pin that hold the jack stand down was cracked in half, and just barely holding together.... Looks like the previous owner had the same issue... Luckily Basher had one in stock to send me with my new light harness..

    As far as the flushing of the fluid goes (pardon my ignorance...Im a bit of a newbie)..., should I drain old fluid, then fill with "Myer Hyrda Flush"... Run the plow through some exercises for 10 minutes or so, then drain again and fill with good fluid.. ?
  14. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

  15. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Excellent advice, regardless of plow brand. I destroyed three jacks on my XV in as many seasons:realmad:
  16. Flatulentvandal

    Flatulentvandal Member
    Messages: 50


    This afternoon I: Drained old fluid (was super clean)... Flushed with Hydraflush. Filled with good fluid.

    While we had it taken apart, I pulled out the orifice fitting.. It was already bored out to 3/32!

    So we decided the fluid was not the problem.

    Then we adjusted the DP valve to either extreme without finding success. We also tested to see if it was stuck, not the case.

    We then traced the electrical schematic and found what we believe to be the root of the problem:

    The "C" (raise) coil is being energized during both "float" and DP operation causing resistance to lowering during float, as well as fighting the DP causing the hammering....

    You can actually hear the motor running backwards when float command is pressed while plow is raised... It floats very slowly (about 10 seconds top to bottom)

    We removed the contact from the "C" (raise) coil and instantly the DP worked correctly and float was fine.

    Our diagnosis would then be that the control module is faulty...

    How much $$ to replace the (receiver) for wireless control module?

    Any suggestions for something else to check before I spend the $$$ on a new wireless control module?
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2010
  17. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    Great diagnostics.:salute: The unit is controlled on the ground side. Test by putting your test light on the ground side of the coil. The red wire/ black stripe is your constantly "hot" when you touch the ground side of the coil the light should light. When you give a command the light should go out. If when sitting idle the ground side of the coil is active (providing a ground) then you could have a bad module but first check the harness carefully for cuts, pinched wires, worn coatings, etc providing a ground. If it is a case of a ground then beware the coil will be constantly drawing juice and will kill your battery if you leave it connected for too log.
  18. Flatulentvandal

    Flatulentvandal Member
    Messages: 50

    So, If I double check the tan ground wire from the "C" coil, back through the harness and do not find anything out of the ordinary... Would your next move be to replace the control module ($400)?

    Also, if the "C" (raise) coil is being activated all the time, why is it not constantly trying to raise the blade?
  19. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,993

    No 12 volt motor soliniod signial. Is it grounded all the time or only when you give the float or DP command
  20. Flatulentvandal

    Flatulentvandal Member
    Messages: 50


    I just tested it again....

    I believe the "C" coil is being grounded all the time. I was unable to get a "light-up" from my test light until I removed the tan (ground) contact from the "C" coil.

    The other coils all behaved as you predicted.... providing a light up on the ground side, until the corresponding command was given, then the light would go out until the command stopped.

    I traced the (TAN "C" coil ground wire) all the way through the harness and found nothing suspicious... All the wires are very clean....

    On a side note: The "B" coil (used during float & or DP) is constantly VERY hot, almost too hot to touch with your finger. Even the contacts and thin plastic protective contact covers appear discolored, perhaps from all the heat?....

    (Not sure if that is related..)
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2010